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When the slide strips the round out of the mag, it is angled up towards the feed ramp. as the slide moves forward, the round needs to be able to slide up under the extractor. If there is too much "coating" on the breach face you will get the exact problem that you are facing.

I have a low round count G19.3 and can meet up with you this weekend so you can compare it to yours and also try out the slide on your PSA frame.
I appreciate the offer but it will take live fire to see if works. I think the extractor looks like the culprit. If you have a way to measure the gap between the extractor claw and the breech face that would be helpful? Mine measures .044 in the new slide but in my G22 it measures .067.
 
Can you push a round under the extractor fairly easily?

Looks like Stomper has the best idea. đź‘Ť
I measured the gap between the extractor claw and breech face, it is .044 on the new slide and .067 on my G22 slide. I took the recoil spring and barrel out of the new slide and out of my G22 slide. A round can be stuffed under the new extractor claw but it is really tight. A round will easily slide under the G22 extractor claw, it's almost too loose in that the round tips a bit when it is held by the extractor.
 
Mine roughly measure .056, .061 and .057 using a caliper.
I used a set of narrow feeler gauges to measure mine but those numbers are definitely looser than the .044 of my new slides extractor. Maybe I will need to open the extractor up a tad. I will wait until the new mag arrives and if that doesn't fix it, I will contact bubblegum again about the extractor tolerances. Once I take metal off I can put it back on so I want to be careful about grinding on it.
 
I have a low round count G19.3 and can meet up with you this weekend so you can compare it to yours and also try out the slide on your PSA frame.
@arakboss I have a Polymer80 gen1 frame that is complete and known good. You're welcome to try it with your upper if you'd like. @Stomper can be pivot man :D
 
1) Glad you are getting some OEM Glock mags.
2) Never manually load a round and then let the slide fly.
Doing this can damage your extractor.
3) Check that your RSA channel is completely clear and the RSA is not rubbing.
4) Make sure that your slide lock spring is below flush or your RSA will drag on it.
5) Always use full power factory ammo when doing the break-in
 
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I don't. It is based on Gen 3 Model. I think I might try and remove the extractor to see if that alleviates the hang up issue. That may allow me to eliminate the chamber as a cause if the rounds feed fine without extractor installed. Assuming rounds feed straight with extractor holding them in place? I will youtube extractor removal tomorrow and see how difficult it is.
It is simple. The extractor is a captive design help in place by the Firing Pin Safety & Spring, it gets its spring tension from the Extractor Depressor & Spring Assembly which is held in place by the back plate, which also hold in the firing pin assembly. The main thing is make sure capture the the two while removeing the back plate or the will go flying across the room. All of this can be done with the standard Glock disassembly tool, pin punch or small screw driver.

Here is a quick vid...
 
I don't have a Gen 3. But I have a stock 19 barrel that we could try. I also have a mag if you don't want to wait for the one ordered.
 
1) Glad you are getting some OEM Glock mags.
2) Never manually load a round and then let the slide fly.
Doing this can damage your extractor.
3) Check that your RSA channel is completely clear and the RSA is not rubbing.
4) Make sure that your slide lock spring is below flush or your RSA will drag on it.
5) Always use full power factory ammo when doing the break-in
I always cringe when people drop a round in the chamber and then send the slide home on top of it.
 
Thanks everybody for the help, I will report back when my new mag arrives.
I tried hand cycling rounds out the new factory 10 round G19 mag today. It is better but still had a few hang ups. I will take it out for a live fire spin this weekend and probably report back from the mountain top. I recieved one of my Taurus PT92AFs from the FFL today, so I will try that out too.
 
I am going to make another attempt at diagnosing my Dagger Frame and Alpha Shooting Sports slide this weekend. The problem that still exist is that with ammo in mag it fails to return to battery about 30 to 50% of the time. This happens during live fire and when cycling rounds through by hand.

I was messing with it this morning and it goes into battery 100% of the time with empty mag and 100% of the time with no mag. I tried to make it fail to go into battery by gingerly letting the slide return to battery. It would not fail but I did notice that there is some additional resistance when letting the slide return home on a reset trigger versus holding the trigger back so it hasn't reset and letting the slide return home. Regardless it returns to battery every time unless ammo is in the gun.

I still suspect the extractor could be the cause but that doesn't seem to be a common problem. One problem others have had is the spring assy under the safety plunger getting installed sideways. That has lead to people having problems with slide going into battery even when no ammo was in the gun. I will tear down the upper and check my safety plunger spring.
I have also read about some parts in the frame that could be rubbing and might cause slide to not return to battery. Since mine only fails when loaded with ammo I don't think it is problem in the frame?

I need to make up some dummy rounds so I can play around with it when the mag is loaded.

Does anybody know of a local source that sells glock parts?
 
Here is one gent having a similar problem but when mine hangs up I have to push it forward to battery. It won't return to battery by releasing the trigger like it did for his pistol. This was his solution to the problem he was having: "The safety plunger spring was not completely vertical. I did a detail strip after this and noticed it. It was fine after that!"

 
I am going to make another attempt at diagnosing my Dagger Frame and Alpha Shooting Sports slide this weekend. The problem that still exist is that with ammo in mag it fails to return to battery about 30 to 50% of the time. This happens during live fire and when cycling rounds through by hand.

I was messing with it this morning and it goes into battery 100% of the time with empty mag and 100% of the time with no mag. I tried to make it fail to go into battery by gingerly letting the slide return to battery. It would not fail but I did notice that there is some additional resistance when letting the slide return home on a reset trigger versus holding the trigger back so it hasn't reset and letting the slide return home. Regardless it returns to battery every time unless ammo is in the gun.

I still suspect the extractor could be the cause but that doesn't seem to be a common problem. One problem others have had is the spring assy under the safety plunger getting installed sideways. That has lead to people having problems with slide going into battery even when no ammo was in the gun. I will tear down the upper and check my safety plunger spring.
I have also read about some parts in the frame that could be rubbing and might cause slide to not return to battery. Since mine only fails when loaded with ammo I don't think it is problem in the frame?

I need to make up some dummy rounds so I can play around with it when the mag is loaded.

Does anybody know of a local source that sells glock parts?
I took down the slide and everything was normal. The safety plunger spring was in correctly. I went ahead and took a few swipes at the extractor claw and removed the TiN coating. I tried to hand cycle a live round and right away got an out of battery situation. I don't want to keep using live rounds to test it, so I will load up some dummy rounds this weekend or buy some snap cap rounds. If I can find a cheap extractor locally I might swap it out and see if that makes a difference. The breech face doesn't appear to have too much finish on it so I don't know what else would be causing the tight .044 extractor gap. I also don't know what the extractor gap spec is suppose to be? Everybody else seems to have a much larger gap Any glock armorers here have that spec?

I don't want to pigeon hole myself into blaming the extractor, so if anybody else has ideas of other components to look at let me know.
 
Look for galling in the bore where the case seats. You can buy some "silly Putty" and press it in to take an impression or look carefully at a case for gall marks after fully seating a round.
 
Look for galling in the bore where the case seats. You can buy some "silly Putty" and press it in to take an impression or look carefully at a case for gall marks after fully seating a round.
The chamber was the first thing I checked. It is free of defects and rounds easily plunk in there. Would it cause any problems if I removed the extractor but reassembled everything else and cycled some rounds by hand?
 

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