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:s0092:
OK, a lot of good info and links posted here and you didn't even acknowledge any of them.
Instead, you choose to challenge/reply to the only poster with nothing but criticism, no useful info at all.
Did you even read the other posts?
out of here,
.
There's no criticisms. If station order is important and I don't know why, reordering it because some said so is just kicking the can down the road without fixing the underlying issue. Underlying issue being not understanding why station order is important in relation to expansion die and powder dropper.

As for the other posts, I was going to respond to them specifically. I guess that is considered poor form here? In case, fair warning. The rest of this post is gonna be a giant wall of text...

The suggestions are appreciated, but I went through them before I came here to ask. I've already watched the Hornady, Brownells, and a few other setup video's as well. I've also already gone back and re-read the manual a couple of times just to check for things like upside down powder bushings and incorrectly installed drums and such. The instructions didn't cover adjusting the throw distance to the cartridge length at all. So the video's were very helpful on that, so whoever mentioned video's > words, your right.

That said, while I have already soapy water bathed the whole dropper setup and reset it up. As per the first responders suggestion,
I ran out of time last night and work has me booked all over Western WA this week. I won't get a chance to test it again until next weekend at the earliest. I'm going to either have to get the casting pot out and smelt some more 9mm boolits first, or reset the whole thing up for .223 as I've got plenty of bullets, brass, powder and primers for that.
 
There's no criticisms. If station order is important and I don't know why, reordering it because some said so is just kicking the can down the road without fixing the underlying issue. Underlying issue being not understanding why station order is important in relation to expansion die and powder dropper.

As for the other posts, I was going to respond to them specifically. I guess that is considered poor form here? In case, fair warning. The rest of this post is gonna be a giant wall of text...

The suggestions are appreciated, but I went through them before I came here to ask. I've already watched the Hornady, Brownells, and a few other setup video's as well. I've also already gone back and re-read the manual a couple of times just to check for things like upside down powder bushings and incorrectly installed drums and such. The instructions didn't cover adjusting the throw distance to the cartridge length at all. So the video's were very helpful on that, so whoever mentioned video's > words, your right.

That said, while I have already soapy water bathed the whole dropper setup and reset it up. As per the first responders suggestion,
I ran out of time last night and work has me booked all over Western WA this week. I won't get a chance to test it again until next weekend at the earliest. I'm going to either have to get the casting pot out and smelt some more 9mm boolits first, or reset the whole thing up for .223 as I've got plenty of bullets, brass, powder and primers for that.
Can you get it to throw powder properly all by itself in a single stage press or equivalent?
It sounds like it's not reaching its designed travel range.
 
Can you get it to throw powder properly all by itself in a single stage press or equivalent?
It sounds like it's not reaching its designed travel range.
I don't think so either. I was only able to get it to throw from ~ +45° to -45°. I swapped it over to the small caliber rifle bushing/drum/plunger(I don't think that is the right term, but the adjustable part of the drum) and ran a .223 up into it tonight and was pretty easily able to get it adjusted to run the full range of the arm by playing with the height of the upper clamp of the swing arm assembly. I wasn't able to get it to make a full throw with anything shorter than a 38 super with the pistol drum/plunger/bushing.
 
Just thinking aloud. If that's the directions, then that's the directions.

Simply not what I do.

Disregard what I do.
I would still like to know why. I've always belled/expanded prior to priming and powdering as that was the order specified in the manual I learned from. If there is some sort of reason it works better with a progressive to reverse those steps, I'm all ears.
 
I just managed to get a 100rd run through mine tonight WooHoo!! It ran great a was planned, to be fair I did a lot of calibrating of each die before I started. This is mine in the resting position. Hope it helps.

16497396085938815338110350855934.jpg 1649739684056207024180511480820.jpg
 
There's no criticisms. If station order is important and I don't know why, reordering it because some said so is just kicking the can down the road without fixing the underlying issue. Underlying issue being not understanding why station order is important in relation to expansion die and powder dropper.

As for the other posts, I was going to respond to them specifically. I guess that is considered poor form here? In case, fair warning. The rest of this post is gonna be a giant wall of text...

The suggestions are appreciated, but I went through them before I came here to ask. I've already watched the Hornady, Brownells, and a few other setup video's as well. I've also already gone back and re-read the manual a couple of times just to check for things like upside down powder bushings and incorrectly installed drums and such. The instructions didn't cover adjusting the throw distance to the cartridge length at all. So the video's were very helpful on that, so whoever mentioned video's > words, your right.

That said, while I have already soapy water bathed the whole dropper setup and reset it up. As per the first responders suggestion,
I ran out of time last night and work has me booked all over Western WA this week. I won't get a chance to test it again until next weekend at the earliest. I'm going to either have to get the casting pot out and smelt some more 9mm boolits first, or reset the whole thing up for .223 as I've got plenty of bullets, brass, powder and primers for that.
OK, one more time...
If you watch the vid I posted at about 4:30 minutes you'll see the adjustment to get the powder measure to FULL TRAVEL for 9mm.
Here:
Watch it, it's not a mystery.

The order of operation has NOTHING to do with the FULL TRAVEL of the powder drop.
Guessing at/swapping out random parts for no rhyme or reason isn't going get you to where you need to be.
jmo,
.
Edit: if your ego has a problem with watching that vid, just don't tell us you watched it. :s0112:
 
Last Edited:
Ok, so I was shown a different way than the video.
First: raise the plate all the way to the top.
Second: insert the die till it touches the plate than back it out a 1/4 turn, lock the nut so it doesn't move; lower the plate after.
Third: insert the Pistol powder bushing than the feeder.
Forth: place a case in the plate and raise it into the feeder.
Fifth: raise the feeder drum to max elevation leaving a 1/8" to 1/16" gap.
Sixth: adjust raiser linkage to match drum elevation; do not add spring or set bar yet.
Seventh: test to ensure drum makes a full raise and lower movement when case is inserted and removed; if not repeat part six.
Eighth: after drum and linkage is set, tighten all screws accordingly and install return spring and set bar.
If you have any questions feel free to ask.
 
Ok, so I was shown a different way than the video.
First: raise the plate all the way to the top.
Second: insert the die till it touches the plate than back it out a 1/4 turn, lock the nut so it doesn't move; lower the plate after.
Third: insert the Pistol powder bushing than the feeder.
Forth: place a case in the plate and raise it into the feeder.
Fifth: raise the feeder drum to max elevation leaving a 1/8" to 1/16" gap.
Sixth: adjust raiser linkage to match drum elevation; do not add spring or set bar yet.
Seventh: test to ensure drum makes a full raise and lower movement when case is inserted and removed; if not repeat part six.
Eighth: after drum and linkage is set, tighten all screws accordingly and install return spring and set bar.
If you have any questions feel free to ask.
I'll try setting it up using this method next time I get a chance. I had pretty much the exact setting from the previous video, complete with having the die body flush with the ram. And was still never able to get full motion.

Obviously my settings are pretty different now, but I did start the setup for 223 similar to how you described. Running a case up into the die and then setting the upper clamp based on having the drum fully extended. Though I didn't run the die all the way in and then back off 1/4 turn. I just turned it in flush with the bottom of the housing more like the starting point in the video.
 
I wasn't able to replicate his results unfortunately, despite messing around with the clamps for what seemed like hours. At least not with 9mm.
I think you could replicate what the vid guy has going on by simply counting the powder measure threads he has under that pinch clamp on the threads and replicate that on yours.
You may have to adjust the die-in-the-press up or down to get the measure through 100% stroke but NOT CRUSH the case (mouth).
Maybe watch the other vids in my original post for a different perspective:

I have 3 of those powder measures and the clap trap linkage, on a shelf, as I changed over to Lee powder thru the expander dies and both the Lee Pro Disc Powder Measure and the Lee Auto Drum Powder Measure, for none of that multi-adjustment for every caliber change.
On RCBS presses though. 🤔
PStorageS.jpg
Those are presses-in-storage, there's another green one on the bench, no in the pic.
Sorry I have not helped here...
jmo,
 
Last Edited:
I think you could replicate what the vid guy has going on by simply counting the powder measure threads he has under that pinch clamp on the threads and replicate that on yours.
You may have to adjust the die-in-the-press up or down to get the measure through 100% stroke but NOT CRUSH the case (mouth).
Maybe watch the other vids in my original post for a different perspective:

I have 3 of those powder measures and the clap trap linkage, on a shelf, as I changed over to Lee powder thru the expander dies and both the Lee Pro Disc Powder Measure and the Lee Auto Drum Powder Measure, for none of that multi-adjustment for every caliber change.
On RCBS presses though. 🤔
View attachment 1176871
Those are presses-in-storage, there's another green one on the bench, no in the pic.
Sorry I have not helped here...
jmo,
I've always just used a scale, so this is my first attempt with any kind of a thrower.
 
I just turned around on my chair, rolled up close to my Rock Chucker, and gave it a little kiss and gentle hug. We appreciate each other. :s0157:
 
BUT, But, but........

There are plenty of people who suggest a newbie get a progressive press on their first time out.

Rrrrrright.........
1649987218051.png

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
I don't think so either. I was only able to get it to throw from ~ +45° to -45°. I swapped it over to the small caliber rifle bushing/drum/plunger(I don't think that is the right term, but the adjustable part of the drum) and ran a .223 up into it tonight and was pretty easily able to get it adjusted to run the full range of the arm by playing with the height of the upper clamp of the swing arm assembly. I wasn't able to get it to make a full throw with anything shorter than a 38 super with the pistol drum/plunger/bushing.
I think you should have 3 bushings, Rifle, large pistol and small pistol.
The small pistol should look like this with the small end sticking out or the powder measure
You adjust the place where the powder throw starts by adjusting the measure in the preess body.
 

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