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Except that you can shoot .38 Spc in it. I have a 66-2 in .357. Very similar in weight and balance. Shooting .38 Spc in it is a breeze.
Yes, shooting in 38 special helps but as someone who has hand issues I can say that 38 special is not the no kick round that it seems to be made out to be. I'd much rather be shooting it in a 4" barrel than snub as its just uncomfortable. I can shoot a 9mm in a 3.2" barrel just fine though.
 
Yes, shooting in 38 special helps but as someone who has hand issues I can say that 38 special is not the no kick round that it seems to be made out to be. I'd much rather be shooting it in a 4" barrel than snub as its just uncomfortable. I can shoot a 9mm in a 3.2" barrel just fine though.
I agree. A 4" barrel is wonderful compared to a stubby snubby.
 
Full size revolvers that are snubbies can be very accurate as well as easy enough to shoot to get that accuracy practically. I'm talking about medium frame SWs or Rugers such as the model 586, 686, 19, or 66 SWs or the GP100 Ruger. They are full size top of line revolvers with adjustable sights. Exactly the same .357s used for deer hunting except they simply have shorter barrels.

I'd suggest a snubby SW 586 or 686 for your dad. These are identical except the 586 is blued and the 686 is stainless steel. My 686, "Buddy", has been my EDC for a couple of decades. He was also my duck flock protector back when I had ducks. And has done some time as a woods gun. I don't have weak hands. But I'd recommend the SW 586 or 686 for someone with weak hands over the other options. Before Buddy, one of my favorite EDCs was a Ruger Security Six snubby. I've also owned or own various other SW, Colt, and Ruger revolvers in various barrel lengths in .357 and .44.

From Ransom Rest, all the models I mentioned in snubby versions can usually do 3" groups at 5o yards with appropriate ammo. In 6" versions they can usually do 2" groups. That is, such top of the line snubbies out shoot most of the semiautos used for SD with respect to accuracy. And they are only slightly less precise than the same models with 6" barrels. They are also easy to shoot. Back when I had a good place in the woods to shoot, I could keep everything within 5 or 6 inches offhand at 40 yards with my Security 6 snubby. That's good enough for deer hunting, had I wanted to shoot deer with a .357 snubby.

For weak hands one thing you need is to be able to pull the trigger through the long double action cycle that is usually preferred for self defense. Another is being able to handle recoil. A third is having a gun that takes a full range of rubber after market grips for maximal hand comfort and optimal hand positioning.

For a good DA trigger you need a medium frame revolver, not a small frame one. Small frames have smaller working surfaces, which translate into heavier DA trigger pulls. So skip the J frame SWs, or the Ruger SP101. I cannot, by the way, shoot J (small) frame Smiths at all well. And even with .38sp I find the recoil punishing. I don't even notice the recoil of my 686 snubby with full power .357mag loads. That's the difference between small frame and medium frame revolvers.

I'd also suggest going with the heavier under lugged designs. That is, the SW 586 or 686 or the Ruger GP100. This design really quenches recoil. Even snubby versions are muzzle heavy. Both guns have a wide variety of rubber after market grips available.

From the factory, the SW 586/686 will generally have a considerably better DA as well as SA trigger, and better fit and finish than does the Ruger GP100. The 586 and 686 are built on the L frame, which is SW's heavy duty medium size frame. Its pretty easy to replace the Ruger springs with Wolf springs, however. This lightens both the DA and SA trigger pull down to SW levels, though it doesn't give you the smoothness you get from a 586 or 686 trigger. I put Wolf springs in both my Ruger Security Sixes. I prefer the trigger on my 686 to my Rugers even with Wolf springs. So I recommend it a bit more than the Ruger, especially if you prefer not to replace springs. Used Rugers usually cost less than used Smiths, though. And both are very sturdy guns that can stand up to heavy use with full power loads.

Both the SW 586/686 and the Ruger GP 100 are classics at this point as well as widely available. If your dad goes to a range that rents out guns there's a good chance he could try both before buying.

Note that Buffalo Boar has ammo designed specifically for short barrel revolvers. These have faster burning powders so there is less loss of muzzle velocity from having a snubby vs longer barrel revolver.
 
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2-3" K-frame Smith and might as well get it in magnum for his sake. I very much doubt he'll like shooting magnums out of it so of course include .38 range plinkers and then some good .38 +P for actually keeping in the gun.
Do not get him a Taurus. Life is too short and valuable to waste for a couple hundred dollars difference.
 
I have a Colt Commando 2", 6shot, spec - loaded with +P+, makes a Very Good carry revolver, it's black parkerized steel frame makes it good to carry and a pleasure to shoot.
 
2-3" K-frame Smith and might as well get it in magnum for his sake. I very much doubt he'll like shooting magnums out of it so of course include .38 range plinkers and then some good .38 +P for actually keeping in the gun.
Do not get him a Taurus. Life is too short and valuable to waste for a couple hundred dollars difference.
To elaborate a little.
A 2 - 3" K-frame Smith means the lighter medium frame Smith. In .357mag this means the model 19 or 66 in blue or SS respectively. The Ruger equivalent is the Security 6. These are lighter frame guns with barrels that are not under- lugged. They are as accurate as the somewhat heavier guns I recommended. They are beloved by many. But the lighter frame, especially in the barreI, means they don't absorb recoil nearly as well as the SW 586/686 or Ruger GP 101. I think someone with hand strength issues would be a lot more likely to enjoy shooting the heavier under lugged .357s with .357 loads.

I agree that he should stay away from Taurus or other lower line guns. These have heavier DA triggers and don't normally match the accuracy of the SWs or Rugers we've been discussing.
 
My 79 yr old father wants a snubby revolver for carry. He no longer can handle his Kimber Custom Carry due to hand strength. I told him about the S&W EZ and he's not interested in anything in 9mm or .380. He wants a 6-shot revolver with a 2" or 3" barrel in .357 Magnum.

Now, the man knows more about fine longarms than just about anyone on the planet, but handguns aren't his thing. So he asked me what I'd recommend. Immediately, I thought of the Kimber K6. But, I'm a semi-auto guy and know very little about revolvers. He asked about the Taurus lineup, and I said all I knew was that it was a crapshoot with Taurus from what I'd heard. The guy can afford a Kimber, but was asking about Taurus, so who knows what he wants to spend.

What are some good, solid choices in the under $1000 price range for a 6-shot revolver with 2" or 3" barrel?

Well, if you can find an older Taurus with the magnaporting, they are very good and reliable. The only thing is they have a 12lb trigger, albeit a very smooth one, which was tough for my wife's hand strength. I bought a Wolfe spring kit and put the 6lb spring in, but I was getting light strikes. Since it is a defense gun, I put the 9lb trigger spring in with good results.

My wife's was like this but hammerless (model 605, I think) for good carry. It now sits near the front entry door since she has incipient dementia and no longer carries.
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To elaborate a little.
A 2 - 3" K-frame Smith means the lighter medium frame Smith. In .357mag this means the model 19 or 66 in blue or SS respectively. The Ruger equivalent is the Security 6. These are lighter frame guns with barrels that are not under- lugged. They are as accurate as the somewhat heavier guns I recommended. They are beloved by many. But the lighter frame, especially in the barreI, means they don't absorb recoil nearly as well as the SW 586/686 or Ruger GP 101. I think someone with hand strength issues would be a lot more likely to enjoy shooting the heavier under lugged .357s with .357 loads.

I agree that he should stay away from Taurus or other lower line guns. These have heavier DA triggers and don't normally match the accuracy of the SWs or Rugers we've been discussing.
I hear you. Most things are a compromise. I've carried most all frame sizes and for a carry 6-shot, not a range or house gun, I'd go with a steel K-frame size gun. Whether or not he can withstand shooting magnums effectively out of it is unlikely though, hence my +P/+P+ mention.
 
I tried the snubbie route...too damn inaccurate without a lot of practice, too much snap..close as I get is a 3" SP101 .357 with Diamond Pro grip and 10# Wolff spring...38's cake, +P's no biggie, 357's very manageable. Street carry +P's, woods carry Buffalo Bore cast magnums.
Good belt with a tight carry holster the key to all.
Find the Wildnerness Frequent Flyer 5 stitch belt with stiffner the best belt for comfortable all around wear. Holsters? Why they invented shoebox's...lol
 
My only experience with one was a few year ago when a buddy said he and his wife couldn't hit anything with her SP-101. So, me and my brother, a SWAT member and certified trainer, agreed to meet at the range to help our buddy and his wife.

We had the wife load the pistol and tried to hit a paper plate at 7 yards. She couldn't do it. We worked on her stance, sight acquisition, trigger pull, etc. She couldn't get on paper.

So, my brother took the pistol and squeezed off a few rounds and got 2 hits out of 6, on an 8" plated, slow-fire, at 7 yards. I tried and got 5 out of 6. We started laughing and told our buddy that his Ruger was possibly the most inaccurate pistol either of us had ever fired and to send it back to Ruger.

We then had the wife fire our conceal carry guns and once she started getting little groups, her confidence returned.

So, my only experience with a Ruger SP-101 was incredibly negative, hence my reluctance in ever wanting to subject anyone to that experience.


Were your CCW guns double action revolvers?
 
I find this interesting. I am nearly Dad's age and this is not a gun I would carry. My son just bought a Taurus 5 shot revolver in .357 Mag w/ a 2" barrel . He got some 158gr 38 Spl. ammo that said it was loaded to 1000fps (a little fast for a .38 Spl.) IMO not a fun gun to shoot. However, easy to carry and he was hitting clay targets at 20 - 25 yds. A heaver gun would be easier to shoot. I just need a #6 Shell plate for my Hornady Lock-n-Load press to load more ammo.

I'm 50 and I own a snub nose 38 Special (S&W Bodyguard w/ Crimson Trace laser) along with too many other firearms to count. I average shooting 65 rounds per day, so I have a reasonable amount of experience shooting. Of all of the guns I own, it is by far the absolute hardest on my hands both in terms of the tremendous heavy trigger (feels about 12 pounds) and the kick on that sucker is painful. Somewhere along the way society started this myth that a small revolver was great for women, but that's the most obscene statement I've ever heard. I'd can more easily shoot a 12 gauge with buckshot in one hand with no shoulder support (which I've done) than I can that freakin 38 special snub nose revolver. Put a 357 magnum in that and it's like stopping Ichiro's baseball bat with your hands when he's in full swing.

And this is what cracks me up about guys getting them for the "little lady". Whatever :s0140:


For the love of God, don't let the man get a 357 snub nose revolver - you'll seriously regret it. If you do, get a used one for a great price because it will collect dust.

Lastly, despite the fact that I've become pretty decent at shooting (I can hit a center bullseye from 65 yards with my 9mm's), I've yet to hit a bullseye even at 7 yards with my stinking 38 special snubby. I've gotten close and I've accidentally shot other bullseyes I wasn't aiming for, but I wouldn't call that accurate. My friend, a revolver collector with about a dozen to his name, tells the story of his S&W 357 snub nose making his hand bleed every time he shot it.

The larger steel frame .357's like S&W K-frame and Ruger legacy models or even the heavier L-frame loaded with .38's is a viable combination.
 

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