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I think there's some good advice above, but wanted to point out another option. I posted the following in a 'cheap AR wanted' classified thread, but it seems more germane here:

Especiall on the used market, I'm sure you can find something decent under $500, but if you want to go seriously low-budget, you can build up a functional AR, and probably stay under $300 (I have).

Here's the rundown of my most recent 'ultra-cheap' build:

EP Armory 80% Poly lower (get the one with the reinforced butstock mount), the blems are fine ($25).
Lower parts kit from Sarco ($36.50).
Leapers stock combo (tube, spring, buffer and stock) from Cheaper than Dirt ($49.95).
Bear Creek Arsenal BCG from Wise Arms ($59.99--it costs more to buy direct from Bear Creek).
From Combat Armory, get the 16" upper with skeleton handguard for $139.99.

About $310 plus some shipping, etc. I've done it cheaper in the past, but that was the cheapest way I found with all new parts earlier this year. That said; In February, I was able to help my brother in law do one for under $250 utilizing parts found in the classifieds here and on Gunbroker to get a BCG, Lower parts, and an upper that were 'leftovers' from others' upgrades.

I do not at all mean to say that this is the best AR you can build, but especially if you are new to the platform you will learn an awful lot and have a start that you can upgrade from.
What kind of special tools do you have to buy to do such a build?
 
And then you too can start a thread entitled, "Why does my AR jam?"

I had some of those problems back in the days of Essential Arms sand-cast lowers and Nesard completion kits, but even then, it was all about your finish work. Noisy, sticky action? Get some valve grinding paste and work it in. Clean up the feedramp, and don't use rusty magazines. Keep it reasonably clean and the AR is a very simple and rather forgiving design. If it jams, you aren't doing it right.

What kind of special tools do you have to buy to do such a build?

I could answer that many ways (and someone would disagree with each of them).

For your first build, my recommendation is definitely to go with a poly lower--they are cheap if you screw it up, and you can always build up an area or fill a hole with epoxy if you make a minor mistake. With these you can go really minimalistic for tooling. With some downloaded and printed paper guides, a hand drill, and a good sharp wood chisel, you can do the job. Then a couple of screwdrivers, a finishing nail or two to use as punches, and a decent set of channel-locks with painter's tape on the jaws to tighten the barrel nut to the upper will finish up.

Having said that, I have a set of the tool-steel jigs that were available in the early Y2Ks (I honestly don't remember who made them, but they have sure held up better than the aluminum and plastic jigs friends have bought), an armourer's tool kit, and a CNC mill that I have trained to do the tedious bits.

The best experience is probably somewhere in the middle.

(More) provisos: I am still not saying that this is the best rifle you can get. Heck, I don't even especially like the AR platform, but it does work. It is simple to build and to build cheaply. When built around the .223/5.56mm, it is stable and durable even when built with less-than-the-best parts.

If I had read the the question as 'What's be best rifle to replace my Marlin .270 With, that is cheaper to shoot, has less recoil, and fills more roles?', my answer would have been something built around the Kalashnikov design in 7.62x39, but there's no reasonable way you could get the kind of money out of the Marlin to do it. If you're willing to add some sweat equity, you can do it with the AR.
 
I think there's some good advice above, but wanted to point out another option. I posted the following in a 'cheap AR wanted' classified thread, but it seems more germane here:

Especiall on the used market, I'm sure you can find something decent under $500, but if you want to go seriously low-budget, you can build up a functional AR, and probably stay under $300 (I have).

Here's the rundown of my most recent 'ultra-cheap' build:

EP Armory 80% Poly lower (get the one with the reinforced butstock mount), the blems are fine ($25).
Lower parts kit from Sarco ($36.50).
Leapers stock combo (tube, spring, buffer and stock) from Cheaper than Dirt ($49.95).
Bear Creek Arsenal BCG from Wise Arms ($59.99--it costs more to buy direct from Bear Creek).
From Combat Armory, get the 16" upper with skeleton handguard for $139.99.

About $310 plus some shipping, etc. I've done it cheaper in the past, but that was the cheapest way I found with all new parts earlier this year. That said; In February, I was able to help my brother in law do one for under $250 utilizing parts found in the classifieds here and on Gunbroker to get a BCG, Lower parts, and an upper that were 'leftovers' from others' upgrades.

I do not at all mean to say that this is the best AR you can build, but especially if you are new to the platform you will learn an awful lot and have a start that you can upgrade from.
Prices for parts have jumped tremendously. Days of building sub $300 ARs are over for now.
 
Great price. I bet you could fish on this site and get a Bolt Carrier Group for less than $100. Heck, I had bought 2 Wilson Combat (Yes , THAT Wilson, the guys who make the famous 1911's). I got a deal on them but wasn't all that impressed when they showed. I believe that they said they were parkerized but I got Black Oxide. I'd sell one for $100. I just looked them up and they are out of them, but they go for $159 new now.
 
Building is an interesting idea especially with winter coming up but I think for right now I'm just going to look for something off the shelf, probably used ,somewhere in the 22 magnum up to 223 range... definitely doesn't have to look like the AR format.... I don't think I really need this firearm for home defense just something a little more fun and cheaper to shoot than the 270.
 
Burnhaven,

Did you realize that Ferndale is in Michigan? Well, that is where Siri said Ferndale was.

Or....with a manual search......Ferndale, WA or Ferndale, OR?

Why did I bother to search?

Because, I was going to comment about the qualifications to purchase your new rifle (if it's a semi-auto AR). Rrrrright...... WA has the I-1639 law.

Aloha, Mark
 
Burnhaven,

Did you realize that Ferndale is in Michigan? Well, that is where Siri said Ferndale was.

Or....with a manual search......Ferndale, WA or Ferndale, OR?

Why did I bother to search?

Because, I was going to comment about the qualifications to purchase your new rifle (if it's a semi-auto AR). Rrrrright...... WA has the I-1639 law.

Aloha, Mark
Mark, there is also a Ferndale, WA. Just north of Bellingham. :cool:
 
Why has noone mentioned the .22 ar conversion? You can buy a complete upper for $250-300 roughly if you search. Then an Anderson stripped lower($75 with transfer) lpk($40) buffer tube stock set($70).

So for just under $500 I can build a decent ar15. Nothing sub-moa but reliable and MOA.

Add in another$160 and you get the .22 conversion with 3 mags. Then its super cheap to practice with an ar
 
Why has noone mentioned the .22 ar conversion? You can buy a complete upper for $250-300 roughly if you search. Then an Anderson stripped lower($75 with transfer) lpk($40) buffer tube stock set($70).

So for just under $500 I can build a decent ar15. Nothing sub-moa but reliable and MOA.

Add in another$160 and you get the .22 conversion with 3 mags. Then its super cheap to practice with an ar
Have you seen lowers available locally for $75 in recent days? The 22 conversion is a great option.
 
Why has noone mentioned the .22 ar conversion? You can buy a complete upper for $250-300 roughly if you search. Then an Anderson stripped lower($75 with transfer) lpk($40) buffer tube stock set($70).

So for just under $500 I can build a decent ar15. Nothing sub-moa but reliable and MOA.

Add in another$160 and you get the .22 conversion with 3 mags. Then its super cheap to practice with an ar
Have you seen lowers available locally for $75 in recent days? The 22 conversion is a great option.
It's abship to your FFL kind of thing but they are definitely available online
 
Have you seen lowers available locally for $75 in recent days? The 22 conversion is a great option.

May not apply to OP since he's presumably not in Oregon, but yesterday I bought an Anderson lower at my LGS in Salem for $60. Last Anderson he had, but he also had about 15+ PSA stripped lowers at $75 and a few Aero Gen 2 stripped lowers at $89.
 

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