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You want a reliable semiauto .22 pistol, have to look to the Ruger's they're work horses. I've got a 45/22 that's a tack driver and hasn't been cleaned in so long, I forget when it was last cleaned, mostly because disassembly/reassembly is such a pain. It just keeps humming along.

Lots of good options listed here other than the Ruger. Back to your issue with the Sig Mosquito/ GSG Firefly, I also have this unit and initially had lots of issues with feeding and ejecting just about any .22's. I changed out the recoil spring (came with it if IRRC, it's been quite awhile) and now run it wet, that has taken care of 99.5% of the malfunctions. Keep it clean, keep it wet, swap out the recoil spring for a lighter one and it should improve the performance.
 
Re ppq 22 my research showed that accuracy is comparable to the p22 (p22q is the newest version). Both showed accuracy issues. Just what I found fwiw and I have not shot the ppq but I own the p22q and it is nowhere near as accurate as target pistols.
RE : Accuracy.

Hummm?
The Walther P22 (3.4 inch bbl) vs "full sized or the target pistols"?

Considering for a moment.....
My S&W 41s with it's 5.5 inch or 7 inch barrel.

1662475199616.png

No need to mention, the trigger differences and that it was built with targets in mind. And who can forget the cost.....OMG!

BTW, some people say that high-velocity ammo is NOT a good diet for it. And, my 5.5 inch barrelled S&W 41 pistol will sometimes have a failure to extract (with some ammo). I've gotten to the point where I might just change the extractor. Then again, maybe I need to clean it more often. Or maybe.......I'll have to keep buying CCI Green Label to feed it.

Thankfully, I can get as much "fun" using cheap ammo and my Walther P22. To tell you the truth......I haven't shot the S&W 41 pistols in a long time. Whatever.......choose what you like to play with. Having a choice is wonderful.

BTW......I took my 17-year-old nephew (a first-time shooter) to the range this weekend. He shot the Walther P22 at 15 yards. He loved the experience. Not to mention, that he managed to keep them all (well 98-99%) in the 6" black with the factory (DA/SA) trigger.

Aloha, Mark
 
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Leaning to the 22 Revolver Hall of Infamy, I once had (of all things) a Ruger 10 shot stainless marvel. It was accurate enough and fast enough I actually shot my best score ever in 22 Speed Steel game. I was quite pleased. While I purchased it slightly used, it was 'all but new'.

As I practiced more with it, usually quick firing several hundred at the bench, I noticed an issue gradually worsening. The hotter it got, the stiffer it got, and the harder to pull the trigger, eventually getting to the point SA pull was nearly impossible, while even given my Schwartzenegger-like grip, DA pull really was impossible.

Consternation of local experts far & wide could not resolve the problem. After it cooled off overnight, it would be somewhat gritty and then increasingly hard to pull around about the 80th round.

Ruger company tried to fix it. 3 different trips to their service department.
The 4 trip they replaced it with a new revolver. I had put something short of 10,000 rounds thru it and the problem was unresponsive to all efforts to repair.

Ammo brand didn't matter. The only factor I could attribute this failure to, was thermal loading. The factory service department claimed they had never seen such an issue before, Nonetheless, they were unable to fix it. They stood by their product & replaced with a new one.

Back now to the regularly scheduled 22 auto discussion.
 
You want a reliable semiauto .22 pistol, have to look to the Ruger's they're work horses. I've got a 45/22 that's a tack driver and hasn't been cleaned in so long, I forget when it was last cleaned, mostly because disassembly/reassembly is such a pain. It just keeps humming along.

Lots of good options listed here other than the Ruger. Back to your issue with the Sig Mosquito/ GSG Firefly, I also have this unit and initially had lots of issues with feeding and ejecting just about any .22's. I changed out the recoil spring (came with it if IRRC, it's been quite awhile) and now run it wet, that has taken care of 99.5% of the malfunctions. Keep it clean, keep it wet, swap out the recoil spring for a lighter one and it should improve the performance.
Best recommendation so far, I will change out the recoil spring. I am not a small person and this pistol has no recoil so it's not my grip. The P226 holds 21 rounds and I place all my shots in decent tight groups at 25' and that is 9mm. Of course it has a green laser on it so it's a lot easier to place. The comments that it's me I don't really think so with the Mosquitos reputation. I can't shoot a magazine without a jam or FTE, or FTF which is always the worst one.
I'll oil it up and see how it shoots, the aluminum slide does it no favors as it is cheap and binds. Thank you for the tips, would love to make this thing jam proof.
 
Surprised to hear some people mention the Buckmark. I have one and I love it, but it only cycles CCI reliably. Previously I owned a Ruger Mk IV 22/45 and that one would eat anything. I sold it because I did not like the grip, which felt like a toy. I briefly had a Glock 44 that was okay, most of the time. It was also very inaccurate. So, not a great training tool.

It seems to me a 22 revolver is probably the safest bet for handling the widest variety of ammo.
 
My Sig Mosquito runs much better with a polished feed ramp. From the factory there was like black anodize on the ramp. Also, it's important to have a "stiff wrist" so that the force of the discharge is more directed to the slide. With those two factors, I rarely have a problem with CCI mini mags and can even run cheaper ammo.

IMG_0557[1].JPG
 
What I do for reliable 22 auto operation.
Polish the mag lips as they have an as stamped finish that is 2/3 shear and 1/3 break, i.e., rough.
Stone/polish all mag lips. :)

I also pre-lube ALL 22LR ammo right before stuff it into a mag.
I spray some silicone lube into an EMPTY zip-lock bag, add a hand full of ammo and close it/ shake it to lube the ammo, then fill a mag with it.
That will transform any jamo-matic into a full functioning auto and works for bolt guns that may have a rough chamber that will not pull the empty/fired case out of the chamber.
I use this stuff but caution that it has Acetone in it that may affect some plastics:

Crc_Spray.jpg
There are other products that will work too, but the best will be something that flashes off, doesn't stay wet, and leaves a dry film of lube.
I have a can of this stuff in my range bag and use it for a quick flush/clean of any gun, but especially 22 autos.
Try it, it's worth the effort. :s0092:
jmo,
 
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What I do for reliable 22 auto operation.
Polish the mag lips as they have an as stamped finish that is 2/3 shear and 1/3 break, i.e., rough.
Stone/polish all mag lips. :)

I also pre-lube ALL 22LR ammo right before stuff it into a mag.
I spray some silicone lube into an EMPTY zip-lock bag, add a hand full of ammo and close it/ shake it to lube the ammo, then fill a mag with it.
That will transform any jamo-matic into a full functioning auto and works for bolt guns that may have a rough chamber that will not pull the casing out of the chamber.
I use this stuff but caution that it has Acetone in it that may affect some plastics:

View attachment 1272566
What gun?
 
What I do for reliable 22 auto operation.
Polish the mag lips as they have an as stamped finish that is 2/3 shear and 1/3 break, i.e., rough.
Stone/polish all mag lips. :)

I also pre-lube ALL 22LR ammo right before stuff it into a mag.
I spray some silicone lube into an EMPTY zip-lock bag, add a hand full of ammo and close it/ shake it to lube the ammo, then fill a mag with it.
That will transform any jamo-matic into a full functioning auto and works for bolt guns that may have a rough chamber that will not pull the casing out of the chamber.
I use this stuff but caution that it has Acetone in it that may affect some plastics:

View attachment 1272566
How about case lube like Hornady One Shot?
 

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