1911 Para Expert help

[Ura-Ki]

The 1911 was designed to run 230gr Ball ammo, and so they work best with those loads. For "defense loads" Remington Golden Saber in 180 and 230 are really nasty and the performance is awesome! I used to be a Federal HydroShok fan, but recent tests show them to be less then stellar as was originally shown in testing! FYI, a 1911 needs to have its barrel throated to be able to feed hollow points reliably! When you see Velzey have him set you up with this, he can make sure your tuned and good to go! Ambi safeties suck! I usually convert mine to left side only! I also install oversize slide stops and safeties as well as mag release buttons to improve one handed handling! This makes a mag change super fast!

 

[Joe13]

Well, you wouldn't believe the number of folks recommending Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil.

Ha ha, no problem. Glad to help.

I order Reds thru Ebay... not sure if it is available on Amazon but it might be. It's really good stuff at a lessor price.

Couldn't find much on Amazon. Here it is on Ebay:
Red's Synthetic Gun Lube Flip Top Go Bottle (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reds-Synthetic-Gun-Lube-Flip-Top-Go-Bottle-/181554713821?hash=item2a458114dd:g:NeQAAOSw6EhUOApi)

Please don't mix an oil based product on top of your nice clean synthetic you will apply! An option for a dry carry would be Tetra gun grease. Available on Amazon.

Ok those are very reasonably priced

I think I'll try to get both and see how it goes.

The original owner was using the plain'o Hoppe's oil on it and I noticed some built up grit and grim in places you would expect to be spotless from a gun guy (he admitted he was still getting into guns - hopefully he didn't bugger it up during its first 250 rounds).



This is going to be an EDC and Bump in the Night gun for me if it turns out to be reliable so I'm a little ansy about getting some rounds thru it.

 

[Ura-Ki]

Ok those are very reasonably priced

I think I'll try to get both and see how it goes.

The original owner was using the plain'o Hoppe's oil on it and I noticed some built up grit and grim in places you would expect to be spotless from a gun guy (he admitted he was still getting into guns - hopefully he didn't bugger it up during its first 250 rounds).



This is going to be an EDC and Bump in the Night gun for me if it turns out to be reliable so I'm a little ansy about getting some rounds thru it.

Just go and put another 250 of el cheep O through it and clean when done! For EDC, I would make sure the throat is worked over and you should be G.T.G! Get a few good extra mags to go along with it too!

 

[bbbass]

The 1911 was designed to run 230gr Ball ammo, and so they work best with those loads. For "defense loads" Remington Golden Saber in 180 and 230 are really nasty and the performance is awesome! I used to be a Federal HydroShok fan, but recent tests show them to be less then stellar as was originally shown in testing! FYI, a 1911 needs to have its barrel throated to be able to feed hollow points reliably!

Glad you remember those penetration stats. Just remember that penetration isn't everything. The size of the wound cavity and fragmentation can offset a less deep penetration.

As for ball ammo and throating... a Para features a ramped barrel, nothing for a hollow point to catch on. One should ask Velzey about this specifically but I've shot an huge bunch of them thru my Para P14.45. There was a story some time ago that a LEO had decided to change from .45ACP to a 9mm. Reason: he could carry more ammo. Not that he was a bad shot... he hit an aggressive black suspect 9 times an did not achieve much. Unusual maybe, but FMJ is not much good at creating large wound cavities.

 

[Ura-Ki]

I forgot about Para having ramped and supported barrels!

 

[bbbass]

Ok those are very reasonably priced

I think I'll try to get both and see how it goes.

The original owner was using the plain'o Hoppe's oil on it and I noticed some built up grit and grim in places you would expect to be spotless from a gun guy (he admitted he was still getting into guns - hopefully he didn't bugger it up during its first 250 rounds).

This is going to be an EDC and Bump in the Night gun for me if it turns out to be reliable so I'm a little ansy about getting some rounds thru it.

A Para is as reliable as they come... right out of the box. It's when people tinker with them or neglect them that they need "tuning". Oils left on without periodic cleaning. Changing of springs. With original springs and factory loads, tuning is completely unnecessary.

I agree with go out and shoot it. You can clean it after and then apply a reliable lube/grease that will make it run in top condition. Yes, you can Remington oil your new pet and it will run. But synthetics up the performance like crazy. Anybody that says otherwise has never tried them.

BTW - A good cleanup depends on eyesight and attention to detail. I now use Hoppes only inside the barrel. It stinks and it's kerosine based that gets into my skin and it's not compatible with synthetics. CLP, available at Walmart as well as gun stores is so much more pleasant to use. The 1911 may have been produced then but we don't have to clean or lube it like we lived then.

 

[Koda]

congrats on the 1911, they make it hard to go backwards and tend to multiply....

 

[Koda]

Just throwin it out there as its all a matter of opinion. I had a 2pc guide rod and didn't like the idea of needing an allen wrench to field strip it. Wilson Combat makes a 1pc full length guide rod & plug that lets the bushing clear it and rotate when the plug is depressed.
Full-Length Guide Rod | Full-Size-http://shopwilsoncombat.com/ (http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Full-Length-Guide-Rod-Full-Size/productinfo/25G/)

and someone mentioned Wilsons shock-buff, I second those... makes for a smoother felt recoil.
Shok-Buff« Recoil System | Full-Size-http://shopwilsoncombat.com/ (http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Shok-Buff-Recoil-System-Full-Size/productinfo/64G/)

Not only do they multiply, they tend to upgrade themselves naturally. You start out with a basic 1911 and a year or two goes by and you open the safe and notice its blossomed into a high end gun with one or two offsprings sitting beside it.

 

[Ura-Ki]

I second the One Piece guide rod! I go even further then this with the Delta Elite type double spring with shock buffer! The kimber One piece guide rod with inner spring and follower is also an excellent upgrade to any 1911! Then there is spring tuning to match load pressures, and make functioning that much smoother!

 

[Velzey]

I say toss the one piece or two piece guide rod..and put the factory back in it.

 

[Joe13]

I say toss the one piece or two piece guide rod..and put the factory back in it.

This has occurred to me as well but being new to them, I wasn't sure if they do or do not in fact help in some way (other then the factory stuff is black on a stainless frame and the one piece and bushing are stainless as well - but I had no intention of throwing another couple hundred into replacing black parts with stainless when I can just get them coated if I love the gun so much).

That and needing a hex key for tear down is only really an issue if I'm in the field and need to do that which would be less then probable but certainly something to think about.

I have a little time to kill today in between stuff so maybe I will change it out and clean and lube it real well. Still haven't taken it to the range - last weekend got real busy.

If I don't land a j o b soon then it may be up for some other lucky person to have unfortunately.

 

[Koda]

This has occurred to me as well but being new to them, I wasn't sure if they do or do not in fact help in some way

not really, they are more of a solution in need of a problem that never existed (and still doesnt).... the 1911 alwas has ran fine without them.

the reason I have mine is I like the Wilson shock-buff pad, it does reduce felt recoil. If I run the gun without the pad, there is no felt difference in performance between the aftermarket FLGR and the stock recoil spring guide