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1911 Para Expert help

Discussion in 'Education & Training' started by Joe13, Jul 10, 2016.

  1. Joe13

    Joe13 NW of Vancouver Opinionated & Blunt Bronze Supporter 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    Recently, aquired a Para Expert and am very happy with the feel but unfortunately I can not exactly figure out how to disassemble it to clean and lube so I can go shoot the thing.

    The problem is that the front bushing and guide stop and spring have been replaced with a stainless bushing and full length guide rod.

    I've watched every video I can find and all of them show pushing the little guide rod button down to rotate the bushing in order to start the field stripping process.


    I can take a few pics but was hoping one of you 1911 guru's out there will have the short and skinny on it and make me look a little foolish:D.
     
  2. bbbass

    bbbass La Grande Well-Known Member

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    Pics would be good since it is not a standard part.

    Question: is it a two piece guide rod? If so you can usually insert a hex wrench at the muzzle end, then unscrew to top half and remove it. After that you can remove the guide rod spring, the lower part of the guide rod, and the rest will disassemble normally.

    Otherwise, it usually takes a bunch of pressure to lower the guide rod sleeve against the spring pressure. Like with a Wilson guide rod. Use a 1911 takedown tool available at gun stores. If not or you can't wait, one usually has to use an implement at the edge of the collar, since there is no button on a full length guide rod, rather than your fingers, especially if a strong spring has been installed.

    Make sure you are turning the bushing in the correct direction... it will swivel both ways but only allow the barrel to be removed in one.

    Which Expert model do you have?
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2016
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  3. Joe13

    Joe13 NW of Vancouver Opinionated & Blunt Bronze Supporter 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    It a 2 year old full size 5" barrel, stainless on stainless.

    I'll grab that wrench and see if I can get it to budge. Bushing goes clockwise if looking at the barrel is my understanding. I just didn't want to keep using force there was a trick. It does appear to have grooves for a torx wrench so maybe I'll try and see if that will pull it apart.

    The guy I got it from didn't mention anything other then he upgraded those two parts (he was going to replace the trigger, hammer, slide lock, thumb and beaver tail safety's with all stainless parts but didn't get that far before I got it.

    Supposedly bought from the first owner with 250 rounds thru it. The manual says it takes 500 to break it in.


    Only other thing in not keen on is the amount of trigger travel. It break clean and isn't too heavy or light but I gotta find a way to tighten that up as well. It's advertised as being able to adjust the travel but nowhere in the manual does it show it and the parts breakdown doesn't elude to it either.


    Got take it down to Velzey soon but wanted to do what I could with it and shoot a few mags before starting to change it too much.
     
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  4. Joe13

    Joe13 NW of Vancouver Opinionated & Blunt Bronze Supporter 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    image.jpeg image.jpeg
     
  5. bbbass

    bbbass La Grande Well-Known Member

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    Yep, looks like a two piece. Here's how I do it:

    1. Pull the slide back to the notch that allows removal of the slide stop.

    2. Remove the slide stop and then take the slide off... this will give you a better look at what you are doing.

    3. Use hex or torx (I can't see real well) to unscrew the front end of the guide rod... it shouldn't be too hard after you break it loose.

    4. Remove the spring and the lower end of the guide rod.

    5. The barrel bushing and the guide rod sleeve should come out easily now.:)
     
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  6. bolus

    bolus Portland Gold Supporter Gold Supporter 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    guide rods that long should be 2 piece like this one
    20160710_120138.jpg
     
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  7. bbbass

    bbbass La Grande Well-Known Member

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    Should be, yes but too many aren't. For some reason purists don't like them.
     
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  8. bbbass

    bbbass La Grande Well-Known Member

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    Joe13, if you are jonesing to go out and shoot:

    1. Lock the slide back and clean the barrel.

    2. Remove the slide and clean any part of the lower that needs to be cleaned.

    3. If you have CLP, spray the underside of the upper. Otherwise use a synthetic lube on the bushing interiors and the guide rod.

    4. Use synthetic gun lube on the rails. Don't be skimpy... 1911s like to run wet.

    Never use regular gun oil on your 1911. It will attract dirt and is not conducive to a smooth running Para.
     
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  9. Joe13

    Joe13 NW of Vancouver Opinionated & Blunt Bronze Supporter 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    Y'all were spot on. It's a 2 piece rod with a hex key hidden in the plastic case it came in. Wasn't too hard to break loose and the gun is 'mostly' clean but I am OCD about that stuff so Im off to give her a good bath and lube.



    Could you elaborate a little bit on the gun oil. I use Rem oil for cleaning because I like a spray bottle and use the hoppe's advanced? (I'll have to go look) Gun oil for all of the guns I currently have and use a compressor to blow out the cleaner and then blow the oil into the cracks between parts.
     
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  10. bbbass

    bbbass La Grande Well-Known Member

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  11. Ura-Ki

    Ura-Ki Sub Light Speed Well-Known Member

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    I was also thinking it might have a Kimber style of double spring which makes it near impossible to field strip with out a take down tool! While many upgrade to this, I am thinking bbbass and bolus are correct with what you have, I'm just wondering which one! Another thing you can do to quickly access things is pull to slide off the frame via the take down pin/slide lock. Then you can access the slide and actually see whats going on with things! Just in case the above ideas don't get you any where!
     
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  12. Joe13

    Joe13 NW of Vancouver Opinionated & Blunt Bronze Supporter 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    Thanks a bunch for the help fellas. I am a 'use more force if it won't budge' kind of guy and figured there was something I was missing or I wasn't man enough to own a 1911 :D:p.:cool:
     
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  13. Ura-Ki

    Ura-Ki Sub Light Speed Well-Known Member

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    Ha, your more a man now that you finally got your self a 1911! Only real men own 1911's LOL Serious, Glad things went good! For the lube, I recommend a very light type of oil on the slide/frame rails being liberal with it! For the barrel/bushing, i like something I bit thicker that will stay longer, Rem oil with teflon work swell here! Depending on how you use your 1911, different lube options will insure proper performance! Most of us run them wet for range work, but for carry duty, I at least, run mine practically dry! Keeps holster gunk and other contaminants from gumming up the works! Many here have good lube recommendations, Choose wisly ANd welcome to the world of the 1911!
     
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  14. Joe13

    Joe13 NW of Vancouver Opinionated & Blunt Bronze Supporter 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    The parts that were changed out are still in a bag in the case it came in and no spring was present so I assume it is the stock spring. Assumptions, I know...

    All the ammo going thru it for the next few months will be factory federal FMJ's and a couple of hollow points to make sure they feed correctly.

    I havnt hit reloader status yet but will be saving the brass in case I get there sooner then later.


    I have a box of Speer hollow points and a box of px1 I think as well if anyone has input on which is the better around town defense round. (Although I sometimes carry a .22lr so a .45acp feels like I could just use FMJ's for what I would most likely need it for).


    I can only imagine an ambidextrous safety is for lefties? I'm fairly ambi but use my right as my dominant hand and draw from my right hip so I don't see the need for one.
     
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  15. bbbass

    bbbass La Grande Well-Known Member

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    Yay!!! Congrats.

    Yes, as I mentioned, regular gun oil will attract dirt because it is petroleum based. I can also change viscosity in colder weather. Or, it can dry up.

    Synthetic gun lubes and greases bond to the steel. They have none of the drawbacks mentioned above. The biggest reason I use it on my 1911 tho, is they are extra extra slick!! Will make your Para slide run like a dream!!!

    I use CLP for general cleaning but not for lubrication on 1911s. I use Reds on the bushing interiors, the guide rod, the hammer rotation area, and especially the rails, but I have to buy it online. I've heard of Slip 2000 but never used it. Please use a synthetic lube made specifically for firearms. There are way to many rumors out there regarding motor oil or other odd things.
     
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  16. Joe13

    Joe13 NW of Vancouver Opinionated & Blunt Bronze Supporter 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    I had initially thought I was going to trade it off because I didn't want to have to buy .45acp to feed it and love my 9mm's. But after holding it many times I'm growing pretty fond of it - even if is a bottom of the line model for para.


    AND I'm not sure I want to invest in the other parts to turn it 100% stainless when I can just have them coated in a light grey or something nice for probably 1/4 of the price.
     
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  17. bbbass

    bbbass La Grande Well-Known Member

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    Hard to beat PDX ammo for self defense. Speer Gold dots are well reputed. I also use Federal Hydra-Shock. Hmmm, there is a penetration test that was posted a month or so ago. If I find it I will let you know. FMJ is not a good idea for self defense. Best used on targets.

    Ambi safety is not only for lefties but incase your strong hand or arm gets damaged. Also, you should really practice shooting with either hand. Some day you may need to hide behind cover and extend only your left hand out.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2016
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  18. Joe13

    Joe13 NW of Vancouver Opinionated & Blunt Bronze Supporter 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    What!:eek:

    I usually just poor 10w40 on my guns after I clean them and hang them to drip dry:p.


    I will double check the gun oil I have and if it isn't the right stuff I'll order some from Amazon.


    Great tips and advice - thanks for walking a 1911 noob thru some of the basics!!!;)
     
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  19. bbbass

    bbbass La Grande Well-Known Member

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    Well, you wouldn't believe the number of folks recommending Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil.

    Ha ha, no problem. Glad to help.

    I order Reds thru Ebay... not sure if it is available on Amazon but it might be. It's really good stuff at a lessor price.

    Couldn't find much on Amazon. Here it is on Ebay:
    Red's Synthetic Gun Lube Flip Top Go Bottle (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reds-Synthetic-Gun-Lube-Flip-Top-Go-Bottle-/181554713821?hash=item2a458114dd:g:NeQAAOSw6EhUOApi)

    Please don't mix an oil based product on top of your nice clean synthetic you will apply! An option for a dry carry would be Tetra gun grease. Available on Amazon.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2016
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  20. bbbass

    bbbass La Grande Well-Known Member

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    Real men shoot .45ACP. :D

    Although my hands are full of arthritis and even my reduced loads hurt a lot after a day of competition. I'm leanin on my 9mms pretty hard now.
     
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