What would you consider an accurate powder measurement?

[pharmseller]

I don't size new brass, either. I'll put a little Redding Imperial Sizing Wax on a Q-Tip and VERY lightly lube the inside of the necks and run them over the expander ball on the sizing die. Just to true the neck, no more. Then another quick swipe with a dry Q-Tip around the inside of the neck and Bob's your uncle.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

for me +/- 0.2

 

[ddjchemist]

Some like just neck sizing and some FL sizing, and I perfectly understand difference and advantages and disadvantages of each. However, even Lyman Manual (latest edition) advises new re-loaders to start with FL sizing. At this point I got just FL sizers in 30-06 and 300 Win Mag, and will for now go with them. Once I learn fundamentals, I might try new methods.

 

[oremike]

Some like just neck sizing and some FL sizing, and I perfectly understand difference and advantages and disadvantages of each. However, even Lyman Manual (latest edition) advises new re-loaders to start with FL sizing. At this point I got just FL sizers in 30-06 and 300 Win Mag, and will for now go with them. Once I learn fundamentals, I might try new methods.

It is generally thought to full size hunting ammo so that it fits in the chamber every time with out fail while neck sizing can make the brass last longer and is an exact cast of the chamber but because of the tight tolerances can cause bolt closure issues. 100 rounds of hunting ammo is a lot of ammo, while 100 rounds of target ammo might last a match or two.

 

[ddjchemist]

It is generally thought to full size hunting ammo so that it fits in the chamber every time with out fail while neck sizing can make the brass last longer and is an exact cast of the chamber but because of the tight tolerances can cause bolt closure issues. 100 rounds of hunting ammo is a lot of ammo, while 100 rounds of target ammo might last a match or two.

Great explanation. I wish some other "experts" could be clear and easy to understand as you did. Thank you very much. Since I got FL dies, I will start with them and then get neck sizing dies. Those are a little bit trickier to chose as it seems some of them do just neck bushing and some do both bashing and shouldering. At least that is how I understand it. If I am correct, for my Tikka T3X in 300 Win Mag I would need a die that does both bushing and shouldering since I can't put back my empty shells that I shot with that rifle. However, my Tikka M658 in 30-06 easily takes empty shells shot with it, so with that one I could just do bushing. Please, correct me if I am wrong. I would rather be corrected at early stages than doing reloading without perfectly understanding mechanics of what I am doing.

 

[oremike]

I'm no expert by any means, just been rolling my own for a while. There kind of is no absolutes. You've got to figure out what gets you to your goals and try to do it repeatedly. I'm not sure on your terminology, what is the act of neck bushing, bashing and shouldering?

 

[Mikej]

I'm no expert by any means, just been rolling my own for a while. There kind of is no absolutes. You've got to figure out what gets you to your goals and try to do it repeatedly. I'm not sure on your terminology, what is the act of neck bushing, bashing and shouldering?

I think he's talking about cleaning "brushing" inside the neck, full length sizing and "shouldering" bumping the shoulder? Maybe?

Reminds me of a few months ago when I'd already loaded a couple thousand various handgun rounds on the single stage and was stepping into my FIRST rifle rounds, .30-06 and 6.5 Swede. Personally, I feel that comparator tool is the best thing since sliced bread.

I've not been cleaning my fired brass before sizing/decapping because it's not dirty. I don't consider a bit of carbon on the outside of the case dirty. I'm giving it a good polish in the walnut/liquid car wax after sizing/decapping 'cause I like shiny brass. A person MUST check flash holes on brass tumbled after decapping. If I was shooting where brass is getting muddy and such, a cleaning would be needed before running it through my the dies.

 

[pharmseller]

Some like just neck sizing and some FL sizing, and I perfectly understand difference and advantages and disadvantages of each. However, even Lyman Manual (latest edition) advises new re-loaders to start with FL sizing. At this point I got just FL sizers in 30-06 and 300 Win Mag, and will for now go with them. Once I learn fundamentals, I might try new methods.

Nothing wrong with following instructions. As you gain experience (hence confidence) you can customize the process.

 

[pharmseller]

It is generally thought to full size hunting ammo so that it fits in the chamber every time with out fail while neck sizing can make the brass last longer and is an exact cast of the chamber but because of the tight tolerances can cause bolt closure issues. 100 rounds of hunting ammo is a lot of ammo, while 100 rounds of target ammo might last a match or two.

One trick is to re-chamber fired brass before processing. If it chambers easily, or even with a little effort, you're GTG. If it is too hard to close the bolt, that's your rifle telling you to FL size and probably trim.

I don't shoot matches, all my reloads are for shooting at animals, or the practice thereof.

 

[pharmseller]

Great explanation. I wish some other "experts" could be clear and easy to understand as you did. Thank you very much. Since I got FL dies, I will start with them and then get neck sizing dies. Those are a little bit trickier to chose as it seems some of them do just neck bushing and some do both bashing and shouldering. At least that is how I understand it. If I am correct, for my Tikka T3X in 300 Win Mag I would need a die that does both bushing and shouldering since I can't put back my empty shells that I shot with that rifle. However, my Tikka M658 in 30-06 easily takes empty shells shot with it, so with that one I could just do bushing. Please, correct me if I am wrong. I would rather be corrected at early stages than doing reloading without perfectly understanding mechanics of what I am doing.

So you can't re-chamber your shot cases in your 300 Win Mag? Is the bolt difficult to close?

The reason I ask is because I've never encountered this issue. I'm far from an expert (there's a lot of guys over at 24hourcampfire that have forgotten more than I'll ever know about reloading) but I load for well over a dozen rifles and I've never seen a rifle that wouldn't chamber its own once-fired brass.

Did you buy the T3x new?


P

 

[ddjchemist]

So you can't re-chamber your shot cases in your 300 Win Mag? Is the bolt difficult to close?

The reason I ask is because I've never encountered this issue. I'm far from an expert (there's a lot of guys over at 24hourcampfire that have forgotten more than I'll ever know about reloading) but I load for well over a dozen rifles and I've never seen a rifle that wouldn't chamber its own once-fired brass.

Did you buy the T3x new?


P

No, I can't close 300 WM cases in my Tikka T3X. Probably if I forced, but I do not want to risk to have a shell jammed.

 

[Mikej]

No, I can't close 300 WM cases in my Tikka T3X. Probably if I forced, but I do not want to risk to have a shell jammed.

These are shells you fired in this gun?

 

[bbbass]

I know that, but my balances are only measuring in grams

I had a scale like that, and I found an app that converts grams to grains.

 

[ddjchemist]

These are shells you fired in this gun?

Yes, in this gun.

 

[ddjchemist]

Yes, in this gun.

I'll just do FL sizing

 

[Mikej]

Yes, in this gun.

These Tikka rifles are top-end guns aren't they? Did you get a comparator or case gauge? Measure a new round vs the fired case. I can't imagine not being able to chamber an empty that was shot in that gun. Unless the chamber is really over sized? But that wouldn't/shouldn't be an issue on a top shelf gun I wouldn't think.

 

[pharmseller]

Here's my setup.
For my infrequent FL sizing I use an RCBS lube pad with a couple of drops of RCBS case lube. Roll the cases on the pad. For inside the necks I use the aforementioned Redding Imperial sizing die wax and Q-Tip. Less is more! I started loading 11 years ago and this is the original pad, case lube, and wax.



I use RCBS loading blocks. One operation at a time, move the cases from one block to the next. For example, if I'm powdering cases I'll start with all the cases in one block. When I add powder to a case I move it to the other loading block. Helps to minimize errors.



For powder I use an RCBS Charge Master 1500. This is for my big game rifles, 7mm-08, .30-06, 7mm Rem Mag, .300 Wby Mag.



For loading .223 I use a Lee powder thrower. I check the weight every 10 or so, I'm never off by more than +/- 0.1 grain.



I use a Hornady comparator for measuring overall length.



My press is a Lee Classic Cast 4-hole progressive press with the progressive function disabled. Here you can see a setup for .30-06, with Lee collet neck sizing die along with Hornady Custom Grade die set (FL sizing die and seating die).



Every load gets labeled with date, bullet, charge, primer, brass firings and sizing type, OAL, and owner.




Hope this helps. I'm no expert, far from it, but this setup works.




P

 

[pharmseller]

Have a separate reloading journal for each rifle as well. Date, operation, even lot numbers of the powders you use.



P

 

[ddjchemist]

Tonight I resized my first 30-06 case. I also got 30-06 case headspace gauge and my first resized case was spot on. I used RCBS case lube kit (lube, pad and brush). Before lubing I just brushed around neck area. I will do case cleaning after resizing/de-priming using a sonicator and RCBS case cleaning solution for ultrasonic/rotary cleaning. I hope to have some time tomorrow evening after work to resize/de-prime ~150 30-06 cases. Afterwards I will separate them by the manufacturing origins since these are all once fired factory ammo and cases are very clean. Of course, I am carefully inspecting every case for any potential defects.
[h3][/h3]

 

[ddjchemist]

Tonight I sized/de-primed 53 Federal and 10 Remington 30-06 brass cases using using Forster full length die. I used case headspace gauge to make sure that each case is within allowed specs. I had 3 Federal cases that were on a borderline, so I threw them away. Here are case measurements for all the cases that passes the gauge test.

Federal: Case Length: .390-.394 (max for 30-06 in .394, but only two cases were .394 and most were .391-.393); Neck OD: .332-.334
Rem: Case Length: .389-.391; Neck OD: .330-332

So far everything is moving smoothly, but of courser since I am new to reloading I can't judge if my size variations are good or not. I know that the Max case length for 30-06 is .394, so Federal cases will probably need to be trimmed next time, but I think since they are still within specs (close to upper borderline).