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Hunter powder is what you need for the 180 class. We'll talk further.

Read this, too:


Hunter is all I use with 180 PT or AB as well as 185 Berger VLD-Hunting.
 
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The problem is not what is the best powder, but what one can find these days. I looked in many places and only could find RX22 from someone here in WA. Will probably order some other powders on Gunbroker and pay above price. At least to get some to start with.
 
The problem is not what is the best powder, but what one can find these days. I looked in many places and only could find RX22 from someone here in WA. Will probably order some other powders on Gunbroker and pay above price. At least to get some to start with.
In decades past I stocked up at the Kesselring Gun Shop but, ah, see that they ran into a few difficulties in recent years. Supposedly the old shop is open, sans firearms and a new shop elsewhere is selling firearms. They had a powder magazine that was always well stocked, but of course today who knows?

Ah, the days of $3 H110 and $3.30 H335...
 
I haven't FL sized in years, and I'm the family ammo source. Read this, and pay attention to the third reply. Mathman really knows his stuff:


Every piece of brass gets indexed to a rifle. That rifle then "owns" that brass. It's a custom fit until pressure causes the brass to "grow" enough to need trimming and a should bump. The rifle will tell you. I'm on six firings with some brass without FL sizing.

I've only been reloading for 11 years so I'm still a newbie but I can roll some pretty good stuff, safely. I have some great data on .30-06 if you're interested, 180 Partition and Accubond.

I'm a bearded man as well so I'm going to cut you some slack on that awful sweater you're wearing in your avatar. If it was a present from your mom I understand.




P
That was a good read.

May I get you opinion on something? Will I be able to simply back out my sizer/decapper die a little and still get a proper neck size on 6.5 Swede for my untouched 1902 CG? I should think so because it's going to take a vey little backing out. I didn't realize before I loaded for it that bolt guns don't expand the shoulder like semi autos do. In this gun a fired shell put under the extractor and chambered has the very slightest resistance upon closing the bolt.
 
May I get you opinion on something? Will I be able to simply back out my sizer/decapper die a little and still get a proper neck size on 6.5 Swede for my untouched 1902 CG? I should think so because it's going to take a vey little backing out. I didn't realize before I loaded for it that bolt guns don't expand the shoulder like semi autos do. In this gun a fired shell put under the extractor and chambered has the very slightest resistance upon closing the bolt.
Check the case length.
 
That was a good read.

May I get you opinion on something? Will I be able to simply back out my sizer/decapper die a little and still get a proper neck size on 6.5 Swede for my untouched 1902 CG? I should think so because it's going to take a vey little backing out. I didn't realize before I loaded for it that bolt guns don't expand the shoulder like semi autos do. In this gun a fired shell put under the extractor and chambered has the very slightest resistance upon closing the bolt.
I have no idea.

Lee collet dies don't cost much.
 
I have no idea.

Lee collet dies don't cost much.
Logic tells me if I'm bumping a shoulder only .002", or less, and i back the die out that .002" that the neck will be fully sized short of .002". That ain't much. I though maybe I was missing something because it seem so easy. Thanks for the input.
 
If you full-sized, THEN trimmed to length - I use a Lee trimmer of each calibre - then it ought to fit in your chamber without any problem. FLR puts everything back where it ought to be.
Well yes, of course.

I'm not worried about it fitting the chamber. I found after firing that I most certainly don't need to full length size. As I recall the brass grew very little total length and the shoulder did not grow enough to resist chambering but the very slightest. I'll just figure on backing out the sizing die .002" and that should be enough to keep from hitting the shoulder at all.
 
I got 3 types of powder from forum members, 1lb each: Reloader 22, Hunter and IMR-4064. I also got from a friend RCBS single stage press (one with priming tool), 100 x 168 Sierra SBHP .30 bullets, 100 x 180 SPEER BT .30 bullets, RCBS 300 WM set of dies (FL sizing/de-capping and bullet-setting dies) and shell holder for 30-06 cases. I am getting close to be able to start loading. Now I am building a nice press station using a nice strong wood box that I made for a different purpose (original purpose to be used as a storage unit and a small working bench) and I need to organize my firearm room. I also need to find some primers and to buy some consumables. I will use a lab-grade sonicator to clean cases (plus a brush attached to my drill for neck cleaning). My Lyman manual advises to clean cases before sizing/de-capping, but most people that I watched videos do it after sizing/de-capping. How should a beginner like me do it? I got time and do not care if I need to spend time or even clean cases twice if needed. I would rather load 1 great cartridge than 10 mediocre ones. If anyone got some large rifle (regular and/or magnum) primers to spare, I would buy or trade for some factory ammo or brass (factory loads shot only once). Step by step, and I am getting there.
 
I use a cheap tumbler with walnut media to clean my cases. I don't clean the primer pockets, and the only reason I tumble at all is because my brother likes shiny brass. Otherwise it's a waste of time. A quick wipe with a rag and I'm good. Keep in mind that reloading has many rabbit holes that can consume you, with very little return.

Tumble
Wipe
Neck size/deprime (one action)
Reprime as part of the up stroke
Into the box



P
 
I use a cheap tumbler with walnut media to clean my cases. I don't clean the primer pockets, and the only reason I tumble at all is because my brother likes shiny brass. Otherwise it's a waste of time. A quick wipe with a rag and I'm good. Keep in mind that reloading has many rabbit holes that can consume you, with very little return.

Tumble
Wipe
Neck size/deprime (one action)
Reprime as part of the up stroke
Into the box



P
What happed to lubing?
 

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