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So I'm not forcing the bolt close. But it is definitely a tight fit. The gun is a Remington 700 7rem mag. What are some of the causes of a stiff bolt or the case not fitting?

The load extract with no issue and shoot well.
 
So I'm not forcing the bolt close. But it is definitely a tight fit. The gun is a Remington 700 7rem mag. What are some of the causes of a stiff bolt or the case not fitting?

The load extract with no issue and shoot well.
I had that feeling with my Remington 700 Classic .25-06. It almost felt like I was seating the factory bullet a little deeper when I closed the action. It wasn't very accurate either. I ended up handloading some rounds and seating the bullets to a slightly shorter OAL and it now shoots sub-MOA.
 
Sorry these are reloads . Factory round close just fine
Since you are reloading these, it's very easy to check the process. Start with the unsized fired case and see if the chamber and eject easily. Then size them and do the same test. At this point you can make a dummy round with no powder or primer and seat you bullet as you normally would and test the fit and extraction. I'm guessing here is where you find the issue but you want to make sure the cases are right before you jump right to bullet seating. Some people get hung up on loading exactly to the book specs but I've found that sometimes minor adjustments are required to get it right. Just be aware of what you are doing and tread lightly.
 
Are you annealing the neck and shoulders? If not, you won't get brass flow when resizing… you will get spring back. Likewise you should be trimming on every cycle… sooner than later you will get a neck that engages the chamber end before the bolt closes.

You really need a comparator setup to measure shoulders on factory ammo against your reloads. All will be revealed.

I had this issue with a bunch of 308 run a few times through a large chamber SA to find I was then having problems with a standard camover then using them on a GSR. A generous anneal fixed the issue.
 
I think my issue lies within the full length resizing die and trimming the case. I don't think I had the die set up correctly and or I should be trimming the case after I resize them.
 
Years ago, early in my reloading career, I had some problems with some 5.56 rounds. Inconsistent resizing was the culprit, loose locking nut on the RCBS RS press. Rookie mistake but I learned how it happened and have not repeated it since. Knock on wood.
 
and or I should be trimming the case after I resize them.
Treat each case / cartridge like it will be the only shot you will be able to make. Think precision. After a 'proper' full length resize, gauge (gage) your brass. It may or may not require trimming, so do so if needed. For auto loaders, the overall cartridge length is critical, whereas in bolt guns it may not be. Also, remember that the belted magnum case headspaces on the belt, not the shoulder. That's why the full length resize is so important.
 
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I think my issue lies within the full length resizing die and trimming the case. I don't think I had the die set up correctly and or I should be trimming the case after I resize them.
You didn't check to see if they needed trimmed? That's potentially very dangerous.
 
No I trimmed it be. But I trimmed it befor I resized.
You trim after sizing. Fired cases grow AFTER sizing.
Get one of these..

With the comparator you can tune how far you bump the shoulder custom for your BOLT ACTION rifle.

Do more reading on the full process of re-loading rifle rounds.
 

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