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Not to mention prison jokes when "naval jelly" was mentioned!! :D


BTW- leaving firearms in a padded-type case (long term) isn't good for them, as you've seen. The padded lining can absorb moisture over time and retain it for prolonged periods, then transfer it to your firearms JUST when you thought they were safe. ;)
Interesting. I've never considered this. So would you just leave it leaning up in the closet? Lol. Don't have other options right now.
 
I've seen lots of those get rusty over time. Best thing to do and keep it looking original is to parkerize it. If you have a firearm that's been parkerize and it's rusting.. the. It wasn't real parkerizing that was applied. It was black oxided.
I parkerized a very worn Springfield 1903 barreled action. Plugged the bore and leaned it up against a tree out back we're i shot. It sat out there all winter a few years ago and not one spot of rust formed. Rain, snow, sleet you name it.
My mix is good :D
 
I have a can of Birchwood Casey "Barricade" in my range bag. I give my guns a quick coat of it after shooting to keep the rust off. It's done well so far. They claim it's the best for rust prevention.
 
Heck, I need some myself.
IMG_1089.JPG
 
I have found the most important thing is to give them a good wipedown at least once a year. A light coat of oil and a lightly oiled patch down the barrel. I haven't had or noticed any faster corrosion by leaving mine and in soft cases. But I also have reusable , plug in to dry, desiccants. Oregon is tough on firearms with missing blueing or that get neglected.

I'm about to the point of getting my grandfathers M70 Winchester reblued. I love the history but don't like fighting rust.

I have done the steel wool and while it removes the rust it takes the blueing with it. Then it needs to be oiled or sealed for sure. Birchwood make a liquid sheath I've had good luck with as well. I could spot blue it I suppose but would really like a professional to do the whole rifle.
 
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Prevention is important....
;) so, you should post your property
upload_2018-6-9_9-29-43.png

I'm assured by many politicians and media "experts" that this will also save your cars, your tools and most importantly.....your children's' toys.
After all, it's all about the children
 
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Some time ago a guy did extensive testing on lubes for both rust prevention and lubrication (friction reduction). Hornady's One Shot performed exceptionally well, and there were a couple others. The guy's results used to be posted at this location, but either it has moved or the server is down: http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

There's an article briefly summarizing the results (focused on One Shot) here, but if you can get your hands on the original test, it's worth a read. Hornady One Shot
 
Depending on the type of finish, you can use either Orison Evaporust or KBS Rust Blast, both of which remove the rust via chemically altering its makeup. If it is blued steel, these treatments will remove the bluing. If it is anodized, phosphate coated or some other, these may be just what you are looking for. Used as directed, the rust will be gone.
 
This appears to be an earlier version of the guy's study, before he summarized it at the (now defunct) link I posted above.
Results of gun care product evaluation - Shooters Forum

That was incredibly interesting! I didn't read every word :eek:, but did scan the charts and sample plates. I did, however, find a sentence that I never thought I would see..... "Like me the hotdog is made mostly of meat (with some fillers) water, salt and fat (in my case perhaps too much fat) to prevent cross contamination, a fresh slice was made off the end of the sacrificial wiener to provide an equitable fingerprint on each sample plate. A nice greasy and salty fingerprint was placed in the lower left hand corner of each sample." LOL


Looks to me like I need to pick up some Hornady One Shot. A person should pay attention though and not get Hornady One Shot "CASE LUBE".
 
Only had one parkerized gun, and it rusted while out in the field. A WTF moment.

Does anyone here remember Naval Jelly ?

I remember Navel Jelly that my dad purchased back in the early 1970s. I was 8 years old and I used on metal garden chair and It did one heck of a job in removing rust. Then I sanded the chair with various grades of sandpaper and repainted using Krylon spray paint.
 
Well I just read through the study and I'm pretty impressed. I think I'm going to use a combination of Frog Lube and One Shot. I like that there is no health concerns with the Frog Lube so I think I'm going to start with ordering a bottle of that first. That was really well done.
 
So I have an Arsenal Sam7 that is 2-3 years old and last night I took it out of the case and looked it over and found rust around the barrel where the gas block touches as well as a little around the front sight block where the barrel meets, and a touch on the bolt. All of these things are new and I've never had an issue before as well as the gun being fairly well oiled from end to end using Outers gun oil.

Any suggestions for removal and possibly treating my guns for preventing future rust issues?

Thanks ahead of time! :)

Curious George wants to know......

Ever shoot corrosive ammo through it?

That being said......

I shoot corrosive ammo (5.45x39 and 7.62x54r). Yes, a good cleaning with hot soapy water and a good cleaning with Hoppe's 9 (for copper fouling) makes me feel a lot better after a range session. Anyway.....yes, I can see the concern about rust (where parts meet). But, I wouldn't consider taking things apart (fitted parts not meant for a field strip) just to try and abate the rust. Maybe, if I were you.....I'd get as close as I could without disassembly and just drop some KROIL (into the cracks, to clean rust)......it might work.;) Then.....your favorite oil to prevent rust.

Aloha, Mark

PS....Kroil contains Kerosene (based on my nose, smelling it). And, Kerosene is also a lubricant. So, I wouldn't feel too bad about getting it into those tiny cracks. That being said.....Kroil and/or Kerosene wouldn't be/isn't my first choice as a rust preventative. There are better products for that job, IMHO.
 
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To answer a couple of things here....

1) When i was in the apartment, i thought carry cases were storage cases, as others have said, they must *never* be used for storage, they just hold moisture and hand grease against the metal.

2) I used those cases as i didn't have a safe, so yes, i started standing them up against the wall in a closet until i got a safe, which allowed me to control the atmosphere they are stored in.

3) I would recommend Seal1 over Froglube - main difference being if you use the liquid version of Seal1, you still need to shake it well before use - Seal1 was created by some of the original Froglube creators, but split after they changed it to not need shaking - that introduced some possible problems with it becoming gummy in certain conditions/over time. I still use my Froglube for protecting the outside of firearms, but use Seal1 inside.
 
I've switched to Eezox for all my guns with good results. Corrosion protection is excellent and it doesn't gel like oil does over time. One thing to note, though, is you don't want to breathe the vapors from the aerosol, so either apply it outdoors, or use the non-aerosol version.
 
Many manufacturers leave the areas where the barrel and gas block meet bare, as well as the sight block areas. I never quite understood why they wouldn't just parkerize or what not the whole barrel. Some actually coat or treat the gun assembled, so those areas never get treated.

Without removing the block, your best bet would be an oil.

If you want to treat it after wards, I'd say oil to try and remove rust, then soak in a solvent to get all the oil off, then cerakote or spray paint the area. Something like red lock tight around the seams may help too.

I have a gas block on an AR that is pinned in place that started to show signs of rust around its seams. I haven't done anything to it, just knowing it is there helps, and I remember to keep it well lubricated.
No idea how the Bulgarians do it, but the Romanians do finish the entire barrel. They always parkerized their AKs.. Then again, leave it to commies to think about the entire rifle and not just how it looks....
Thanks, but unfortunately this is in a seam where two parts come together so simply scrubbing isn't going to fully do it. Hoping for some type of solution that will attack rust without having to actually touch it. I will look in to Remington oil though.
Its not likely to go in underneath, its mostly just external so treat it like you normally would then use a good oil afterwards. People use CLP, I use CLP, but then again rust is normally not my concern with my AK.
Only had one parkerized gun, and it rusted while out in the field. A WTF moment.

Does anyone here remember Naval Jelly ?
Parkerize on its own isn't good to prevent rust, parkerize is a good sponge for oil though. If you shoot a parkerized barrel till the point it gets hot and turns grey and smoking, its because the oil in the parkerized finish is burning off and you should oil it if you want to prevent rust better. I always do simply to restore the look.
 

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