Deep rust removal question

[RugerFan]

My late grandfather gifted me this rifle years ago. He has recently passed on so I decided to restore it. He kept it on a boat exposed to salt air for many years. I'm looking for the best way to strip everything off to give me fresh steel. I'm thinking I might ceracoat it instead of blueing.

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[red442joe]

If it were me...
I'd have fun setting up for electolytic rust removal. Pits will remain, so any new finish will have to address that.

Joe

 

[RugerFan]

I've watched a few of those videos on YouTube. I'd find a way to mess it up.
I was kinda hoping for a good liquid rust removal bath recommendation

 

[Dr Prepper]

Sorry to hear about your grandfather.

Watch a bunch of Mark Novak "anvil" videos on YT he covers this pretty thoroughly. In several videos but has some videos specifically for this type of deal. Even if you cerakote it the pits will remain. Especially I'm the sand blasting step, sand blasting actually makes pits bigger so be forewarned cerakote is great stuff but I'd DEFINITELY sand blast a little on the lighter side to minimize the pitting.

Good luck,

 

[Luvmegrandkids]

Hello.
This might just sound like the goofiest tip you'll get here…….. brake fluid does a good job if the rust isn't too deep. Probably should have used any grade of motor oil instead for better results tho, loL…………….Use the finest steel wool you can find & be gentle with it.
I have done this myself with quite good results in recent years.
Here's even more helpful tips, gives you a better idea on how to protect the blueing should any remain:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwi74avck-j5AhXiATQIHdhVA4QQwqsBegQIBhAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DGrUIuzpjVV8&usg=AOvVaw2Hxr95R4uokJExqijwFqTf

 

[Howard1955]

I've used vinegar to remove rust. Works like a champ.

No idea if it would be bad for a firearm, so check with someone before trying it on your project.

It's as simple as soaking the rusted item in a vinegar bath for a couple of days.

 

[RugerFan]

Hello.
This might just sound like the goofiest tip you'll get here…….. brake fluid does a good job if the rust isn't too deep. Probably should have used any grade of motor oil instead for better results tho, loL…………….Use the finest steel wool you can find & be gentle with it.
I have done this myself with quite good results in recent years.
Here's even more helpful tips, gives you a better idea on how to protect the blueing should any remain:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwi74avck-j5AhXiATQIHdhVA4QQwqsBegQIBhAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DGrUIuzpjVV8&usg=AOvVaw2Hxr95R4uokJExqijwFqTf

 

[ZigZagZeke]

Electro-chemical rust removal is the way to go. Then you can use a draw file to remove as much pitting as possible.

 

[DLS]

I'd use EvapoRust.

 

[BillM]

Look at Evapo-Rust. Personally I just glass bead blast small
stuff---but it's a bit of an investment for one item.

 

[Dr Prepper]

Watch the anvil videos first before doing anything, he dies this for anliving working on some very expensive and irreplaceable stuff. He says you can convert the rust and then rust blue it again. Its worth checking out.

My main reccomendation would be don't rush. You got ALL the time in the world, just kick back pop a beverage and research away for a while till you got a solid game plan.
We are always here to help! (and sometimes argue and bicker about nuance )

 

[jbett98]

The gunsmith Mark Novak on YouTube just boils the rusted metal in water for an hour and then takes off the converted rust with a special carding wheel.
He says that 0000 steel wool will work, but not to use the standard still wire wheel you use on a buffer motor.

 

[RugerFan]

I'm gonna give that a try with my small parts now as a test

The gunsmith Mark Novak on YouTube just boils the rusted metal in water for an hour and then takes off the converted rust with a special carding wheel.
He says that 0000 steel wool will work, but not to use the standard still wire wheel you use on a buffer motor.

 

[Silver Hand]

No matter what you do the pits will remain unless a lot of metal is removed. A good gun shop that does blueing and other coatings might be a good place to start. if there is enough metal remaining you may even be able to recover some of the engraving. If not after the rust is cleaned up go with a flat base coating that does not show gloss or glare. Chemical rust removers work OK. Check out Project Farm on you tube, that guy is good.

 

[RugerFan]

No matter what you do the pits will remain unless a lot of metal is removed. A good gun shop that does blueing and other coatings might be a good place to start. if there is enough metal remaining you may even be able to recover some of the engraving. If not after the rust is cleaned up go with a flat base coating that does not show gloss or glare. Chemical rust removers work OK. Check out Project Farm on you tube, that guy is good.

Yeah the pits are too bad but I think I'm just gonna paint over them and call it good. The bore is pretty gross so it will never be a great shooter so I don't want to sink too much money into it. Just preventing further damage

 

[RX-79G]

Boil or steam the rusty parts for at least 15 minutes, then rub with degreased 0000 steel wool. This is how slow rust blue is done - the steam converts red rust to black oxide. This will make the rust go away with the least amount of pitting. Evaluate after that.

 

[Yarome]

I've always had good luck with krud kutter "the must for rust" forumlation thats both a remover and inhibitor. Especially for hard to reach areas where buffing or such would not be easily done. (like inside a barrel)

I typically try to avoid abrasives except when absolutely necessary.

I have to say though. It really doesn't look all that terrible for having been exposed to salt air for many years. He must have taken relative measures and care at some point and time.

Durafil might also be a good option for filling pits and provide a smooth surface for cerakoting.

 

[Silver Hand]

Yeah the pits are too bad but I think I'm just gonna paint over them and call it good. The bore is pretty gross so it will never be a great shooter so I don't want to sink too much money into it. Just preventing further damage

I have purchased new barrels that were pitted, one was a new full choke BBL. Browning A5 that got dumped on me, when I had a shop in the 80s. Given the wads used in making shotgun shells today you will probably be just fine. Thing is that shotgun was probably made for lead shot. Have a gun smith take a look at the bore for you before you shoot it. Barrels are not that expensive new or otherwise. If it is shot [no pun intended] and a new one is not available, if nothing else start searching eBay. Lots of used parts show up on there.

 

[Silver Hand]

I've always had good luck with krud kutter "the must for rust" forumlation thats both a remover and inhibitor. Especially for hard to reach areas where buffing or such would not be easily done. (like inside a barrel)

I typically try to avoid abrasives except when absolutely necessary.

I have to say though. It really doesn't look all that terrible for having been exposed to salt air for many years. He must have taken relative measures and care at some point and time.

Durafil might also be a good option for filling pits and provide a smooth surface for cerakoting.

Soft solder will work well as a filler for paint it is was also used to secure vent ribs on shotgun barrels some time back. No Idea what they do today?

 

[Yarome]

Soft solder will work well as a filler for paint

It does, yes! Something like durafill is just incredibly easier to apply and finish when you have large surface areas to deal with.

A few spots here and there, solder is much cheaper and perfectly suitable.