Reloading .45 acp

[BAMCIS]

Using small rifle primers in the small pistol pocket SHOULD be just fine, the problems that could happen are only 2, that I know.
1st. primer cap could actually be to hard for your 45. If so, your out of business there,
2nd, if worried, it might be to hot, just reduce 45 load by 1/2---> 1 grain powder, on 5 rds. test fire these, if no primer pressure signs, (flattened primer) then you good to go, even add back 1/2 -1 grain back to original load.. just my .o2c

With primers being so hard to come by lately I sure hope small rifle primers work in pistols because I bought 11k at Sportsman's in Redding on my way to SoCal late last week.

I've done a lot of research online and have found no general consensus. Some say “no problem” and “I haven't bought small pistol primers in years, they work just fine in 9mm or the small primer .45ACP. Others say if one can't find hard published data (on using small rifle primers) in pistols then don't do it.

So far my plan is to load up a few 9mm and .45ACP well under the published maximums and inspect cases.

 

[Benihaus]

I have never had issues using the small rifle as a small pistol. I load on the softer side and have strong strikes on all my .45s.
The only time I use an actual crimp on this round is if I am loading for my 325... .45acp can come apart in the cylinder during firing and jam the cylinder up (not mention powder bounces out which is scary)

 

[Oregonhunter5]

Thanks all!
How does the die set crimp though?
What's a role crimp?
Like role the ammo against a hard surface?

 

[deadeye]

Thanks all!
How does the die set crimp though?
What's a role crimp?
Like role the ammo against a hard surface?

The roll crimp is rolling the top edge of the case into the crimp groove (like on .38/44/45lc etc.), you do not want that on 45 as there is no groove to go into to. The die instructions should state that you dont roll crimp .45acp. I would suggest using the seating die as only for seating and buying the Lee factory crimp die for the last step.

 

[Throckmorton]

look inside the seating die with the seating stem removed,and u will see a 'step' on the interior walls.this machined are squeezes the sides of the cartridge case against the bullet.The farther down you turn the die,the harder the crimp. go too far,and the bullet will bulge and the round will not chamber.
It souunds like you need the instructions with the die set..if u have it yet...and also get a load manual. I suggest Lyman's as it has lots of 'how to ' info as well as load data. you'll need at least 2 manuals for cross referencing.The LYman's is my 'go to 'manual.
I explained roll crimp in an earlier post,along with taper crimp,btw

 

[saxon]

on this one taper on the left roll on the right

remember 45 acp is taper

 

[BZawlocki]

You don't mention if you are reloading for a semi-auto but let me share my experience re-loading for a Sig P220.

I found that the P220 is pretty picky about Overall Case Length. I'm not at home right now or I would tell you what Overall Case Length works well with the P220. I might suggest you look on the Internet for your pistol and see what Overall Case Length others have used successfully. I found that wrong Overall Case Length cause the pistol to jam when trying to load - I think the feed ramp on the Sig is particularly steep and bullets that are not just the right length cause feed problems.

Other posts here mentioned the crimp and why the rolled crimp might not be best. It was hard for me to understand that on the 45acp, when you chamber a round the top brass edge provides the shoulder for the round to seat against the pistol chamber. If that shoulder is tapered in, it could miss the pistol chamber seat. I hope I explained that well enough - it's hard without a picture. Maybe this will help.

 

[Collateral]

Here is a Primer on primers that I found awhile back. It may seem like more than you wanted to know, but, it is no more than you need to know -

Print Page - Primer Info & Chart + Milspec Primers for Semi-Autos & Other Primer Applications

 

[Oregonhunter5]

Thanks guys.
I'm reloading for my kimber.
So from the sounds of it, i have three dies in the rcbs kit, but I should buy a forth one to crimp made by lee?

 

[Throckmorton]

that is how i"M set up,and it works great. If u don't have a reloading manual ,like Lyman's,that is the 1st thing you should buy.

 

[RVTECH]

Using small rifle primers in the small pistol pocket SHOULD be just fine

This should be done only if necessary (like you can't get LP primers such as now) If you do wind up using LR you might want to test fire a few in the empty brass to make sure your FP strike is firm enough to set them off. Some guns will not have a firm enough FP strike and will result in misfires. Also depending on the brand and the brass they may be a tight fit and if they do not seat with maybe just a little more pressure with whatever priming system you are using STOP and do not do it. You do NOT want to force primers into the pocket.

 

[Mikej]

Thanks guys.
I'm reloading for my kimber.
So from the sounds of it, i have three dies in the rcbs kit, but I should buy a forth one to crimp made by lee?

No, you don't need to buy a fouth die! .45 is one of the easiest to load, read the book, look at the Hodgdon site and start near the low end with your charges. The taper crimp is a breeze, just a little "Tightness" at the end of the seating stroke and your crimp is going to be OK. If you're concerned that the crimp is too light, push a finished round against the table/door frame and measure it, if you shortened the COAL you need a bit more crimp. If your cases are being deformed/folded you're crimping too much.

When/if you get into roll crimping, that takes a bit more finess , you need to trim your cases to get good, consistent crimps.

If you're in the PDX area I'd be happy to have you over and give you the "FEEL" for the typical taper crimp I put on a .45.

Mike

 

[Oregonhunter5]

No, you don't need to buy a fouth die! .45 is one of the easiest to load, read the book, look at the Hodgdon site and start near the low end with your charges. The taper crimp is a breeze, just a little "Tightness" at the end of the seating stroke and your crimp is going to be OK. If you're concerned that the crimp is too light, push a finished round against the table/door frame and measure it, if you shortened the COAL you need a bit more crimp. If your cases are being deformed/folded you're crimping too much.

When/if you get into roll crimping, that takes a bit more finess , you need to trim your cases to get good, consistent crimps.

If you're in the PDX area I'd be happy to have you over and give you the "FEEL" for the typical taper crimp I put on a .45.

Mike

Ok. Thanks all and Mike!
I might take you up on it mike.
Right now I have hornady 230 grain, with no canalure
I'm still pretty confused on the crimp. I'm not dumb, i think, just better with visual.
So the die that seats the bullet also crimps the bullet?

 

[Mikej]

Ok. Thanks all and Mike!
I might take you up on it mike.
Right now I have hornady 230 grain, with no canalure
I'm still pretty confused on the crimp. I'm not dumb, i think, just better with visual.
So the die that seats the bullet also crimps the bullet?

Yes.....You set the die so it taper crimps just as the seater plug seats the bullet at exactly (1.225 in MY specific case for my Kimber). You should set your die to what the book recomends, to start with. No canelure is normal on a .45 ACP. A simple "Squeeze" of the case to the projectile is all that's used. It's a "feel" kind of thing, not too much not too little. You'll get it. my offer stands if you near me, lemme know.

It's worked well for me!

Mike

 

[Oregonhunter5]

Good deal..
Appreciate the help.
So as I'm seating the bullet to correct depth, that's where the crimp starts and ends?
So it's seating and crimping in the same motion of the ram?

 

[MarkAd]

My turn
FIrst- you can not use LR primers in palce of LP primers. The height is not the same.
Swcond, while Mike is correct, I always do a taper crimp with a Lee die as a last step. The biggest differnces is i use several 45's and tamper crimp ensures that my rounds always chamber. I also load for a buddy and a light taper ensure chambering in his 45.

 

[rdt]

The Lee FCD is cheap and takes the "balancing act" out of setting the seater die.

The inside dimensions of a seater die are basically a sizer die but bored out except for the last fraction of an inch. That last fraction squeezes the mouth. So crimp is set by how deep you screw the die into the press. Meanwhile, bullet seating depth is set with the other part of the die. Here is the difficulty of doing both actions with one die ----> As your seat die applies crimp, the crimp resists the bullet. Not a big deal if you live in a perfect world, you just have to tinker around with balancing the two adjustments to get the right OAL and eliminate your bell. HOWEVER, its not a perfect world and your cases are not the same length: A longer case sticks up into the die more and will get more crimp than a shorter one and this "extra" crimp will resist the bullet and you will have a longer OAL. Also vice versa, shorter brass>less crimp>deeper bullet. So now, if you want uniform OAL you are chasing your tail every round. Lame.

For $10-15 FCD is much easier, mentally, and will produce a more uniform product if you are not trimming your brass. BTW, trimming 45ACP is also Lame.

 

[Oregonhunter5]

Thanks for the awesome info from All.
This seems to make more sense now!

 

[mjbskwim]

If you're in the PDX area I'd be happy to have you over and give you the "FEEL" for the typical taper crimp I put on a .45.

Mike

Not sure I'd take him up on that part

Also go to "The Ultimate Reloader" on you tube. I believe he's factory sponsored by all the machine manufacturers.
Or just search your question on you tube and you should get plenty videos to watch on it.

 

[Mikej]

Not sure I'd take him up on that part

Also go to "The Ultimate Reloader" on you tube. I believe he's factory sponsored by all the machine manufacturers.
Or just search your question on you tube and you should get plenty videos to watch on it.

Funny guy!! Nyuk, Nyuk.......

What I don't get about the factory crimp die is that you are still going to have an inconsistant crimp due to NOT trimming cases, such as .45acp, to an exact length. I've had no issues, that I know of, seating and taper crimping with the same die. I'm shooting plated .45acp and jacketed 9mm and .40. There is more of an issue with different brass, some thicker/stiffer than others, the way the bullets seat isn't always at the same COAL. "Chasing my tail around" as mentioned above.