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If you have time, help me understand this crimping thing in more detail. I use rcbs dies and rock chucked.

SIMPLY PUT:

You want a crimp that will not allow the bullet to move when it's being chambered or while it's in the magazine of your firearm waiting to be chambered (recoil can be a %$#@&). Then, you also don't want the bullet to be crimped so tight that pressures will be abnormally high.

Some test.......by just pushing the bullet head of their loaded cartridge against a table top. But, how much is too much force? Everyone is different. So, you have to learn that.

I go for "just enough crimp" vs. "overly tight." Setting dies takes some finesse.

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Re-loading Die Adjustments

http://www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm

*Note that the instructions for.....

2 die sets are usually for bottle neck cartridges used in rifles like .223 Rem, .30-06, .308 etc.....

3 die sets are usually for straight walled pistol cartridges like .38 Special, 44 Mag, 45ACP, 9mm etc.....

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Where to crimp? Roll crimp or taper crimp? Or, should I crimp at all? Well, those are other subjects to cover....LATER.

Aloha, Mark
 
I've been finding that loading for 45 acp has been more frustrating than any other rounds I've loaded for before. My 1911 eats up just about anything I load through it just fine, BUT my Taurus PT145 is crazy picky about the reloads. I've found it really only likes a very light taper crimp, and light loads. If I load to the higher ends I start tearing primers and getting horrible accuracy. It's been a trying process lol...
 
I've been finding that loading for 45 acp has been more frustrating than any other rounds I've loaded for before. My 1911 eats up just about anything I load through it just fine, BUT my Taurus PT145 is crazy picky about the reloads. I've found it really only likes a very light taper crimp, and light loads. If I load to the higher ends I start tearing primers and getting horrible accuracy. It's been a trying process lol...

?

I quit experimenting at 5.6gr, W231 under a 200gr Raineer plated HP, in a Kimber full size 1911. The only others I tried were Titegroup, Unique and HS-6. In my limited (just over a year) experience I'm not sure why the the amount of taper crimp would have anything to do your problems, unless your talking set back of the bullet in the case from recoil?

"Tearing primers", not familiar with the term? I've loaded ONE only, apparent, double charge in a .38 special, shot from a .357 magnum that made the primer look "Poured" in.

Maybe if you throw out what you've been loading, the "Brains" on the forum can figure out your issues?
 
If I load to the higher ends I start tearing primers and getting horrible accuracy.
This is a common problem when people think 'more is better' and try to get higher velocity out of a caliber that started out as low velocity, low pressure round. Even some of the 'higher end' loads, And while within reloading manual specs, are simply too much for the design of the gun (typically autos). If a higher velocity round is wanted or needed then choose one originally designed for it. Accuracy and reliability usually suffers when one tries to load a round outside of it's typical, average velocity and the .45 ACP is one of the best examples. 9mm is not much different. These rounds work best within a narrow velocity range and should be kept within them. Think of it this way - the .357 Magnum was developed from the .38 Special to gain greater velocity and energy. Same as the .38 Super from the .38 ACP. The .45 Casull from the .45 LC. These were successful developments from their low pressure 'parent' rounds and became popular, but only a couple failed attempts at improving the .45 ACP ever surfaced such as the .45 GAP and the .45 Super - now fading into obscurity.
 

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