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2700m? Really? Not to be a doomsayer, but that's ridiculous. Even with a 338LM, which has better ballistics than a .50, what kind of scope? Even with long-range type rings that would allow you to engage out to 2 klicks, you wouldn't even be able to GUESS the holdover for the remaining 700m! And in the 'Stan? With the winds that place has? And with 3 CONSECUTIVE shots?

I know the Brits and Scots are smart enough to NOT use a commercial round like the 7.62, but that distance is just a BIT far-fetched. If I'm wrong, it won't be the first time.

Have to agree with the posters that say if he knew HOW to hit at 1500+ meters, he would already know what kind of rifle he'd want. I know I sure as crap couldn't do it!
 
Never heard of the RAUFOSS, so I did a little searching and found this:

Raufoss ammo is legal to own, and shoot.

1. not a DD because it contains less than 1/4 oz of explosive, so it does not hit the DD limit.

2. Problem is, unless some importer brought the rounds in, every round you see for sale is stolen military, Raufoss ammo is not for sale to civilians.
It costs the US Govt about $7 per round.

3. lots of fakes out there, folks taking ball ammo and adding the green/white paint tips on it....if its real roufoss, lots of folks sell with an Xray.

4. it's definitely not THE round for the M82, but its super good in the M2 for vehicle and materiel destruction.


5. I've had and shot 2 rounds of Raufoss, its not that spectacular, a lot of sparks, and a tiny *** hole the penetrator made, regular AP and API/T is much more fun, and spotter tracer is even more fun.

So it looks like no tax stamp needed, but most likely acquired through questionable sources...
 
Being a senior with eyesight that is further over the hill than the rest of the body, I will wish for a simple 308 with a heavy barrel, very firm adjustable stock, telescopic sight that will allow me to see the target a 1000 yards, and lots of ammo to practice with.

I know many of you folks say that isn't so much and that you'd rather have a 338, but I already have a 338. It is a great rifle, but now I am looking for something that has a bit less recoil.
 
Best Defense,
I would really like to know more about your 338 as I have been considering one. What kind of rifle do you have, and what type of brake (if any) is on it? Also, what would you compare the recoil of your rifle to?

I have spoken with some 338 owners who describe the recoil as sort of like a medium weight 30-06 shooting a stout 180 grain load. A decent push, but not terribly sharp or violent.
Thanks!
 
my buddy has a .338-378 Wby with a Holland muzzle brake on it. The thing just lays there, recoil is not an issue. Short barrel life, cost per shot, caliber restrictions at comps and events... those are the bigger issues from my perspective.
 
I worked out the barrel life on my 300 Win Mag, and it came to about 80 cents per shot for barrel errosion. Add to that the cost of decent handloads of about a dollar each, and that makes it pretty close to $2.00 per shot...and my brass is a LONG ways cheaper than any of the 338 cases!
 
My vote would go to a CheyTac, probably the .408, if money wasn't a concern. I would probably top it with an S&B or USO. If I wanted something slightly more available, .338LM with the same class of optics. However, I don't think that is going to help the OP. As already stated, the fact that he is asking this question, and calling it a 'sniper rifle', suggests he is not a regular long-range shooter.
I have a sneaking suspicion that the OP is looking for a gun that will make him a 'sniper', which is backwards. If he is new to shooting and wants to get to 1500yd/m, he has a bunch of catching up to do. I've seen guys with expensive rifles completely miss at much closer ranges because they don't know what they're doing. Wind can be a complete game changer once you start pushing out there, more so in a common caliber like .308.
If money truly isn't an option, I would suggest getting a solid .308, like a Rem 700 5R, and putting decent glass like a Leupold MK4 or a Nightforce on it, and taking a good class. Start sending rounds downrange, and getting good instruction.
With regards to the M110, I've shot it out to 1000m, but it was pretty marginal at that range. The wind blows it wayyyyy off and you're calls have to be dead on. It's really in it's prime with multiple targets from 300-700m. It doesn't have the velocity to shoot far, and semi autos are a little more difficult to shoot with precision.
 
Best Defense,
I would really like to know more about your 338 as I have been considering one. What kind of rifle do you have, and what type of brake (if any) is on it? Also, what would you compare the recoil of your rifle to?

I have spoken with some 338 owners who describe the recoil as sort of like a medium weight 30-06 shooting a stout 180 grain load. A decent push, but not terribly sharp or violent.
Thanks!
Several years ago I got a deal on a barrel and stock combination, so I bought them to fit my 98 Mauser. I had a gunsmith assemble the combination and put on what he called a "quiet brake." I tried to shoot the gun before I put the brake on, but the recoil was so strong that every time I touched a round off from the bench position, it knocked me back several inches and knocked my muffs off of my head. Since I had the brake installed, the recoil is much more manageable. Better than my 30-06. The 06 has a snappy recoil that is kind of stingy to the shoulder. The 338 is more like a big quick shove. The rifle weighs about 9.5 pounds. The stock is laminated wood and has a 2.5-8 scope. With practice I can shoot about 2 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards. Some days a little better, but not often. Perhaps a different brake might provide more reciol relief, but what I have now is tolerable since I only use it for hunting so far. I am interested in some long range shooting, but right now I don't have the time to get it all together to do much of that. Another thing is that .338 bullets are never on sale, so unless you can mold your own, plan on spending around $25-30 for 50 bullets. That runs about 50 cents per bullet. The only good thing is that you can use 7MM Rem mag brass and just neck it up to get 338 brass. 338 brass is hard to find, but there is lots of 7MM Rem mag brass avaliable in the once fired market. Just resize and fire-form to your chamber.
 
Crenshaw Ammunition is having a sale on .338 bullets now.

Sierra 250 MK=$19.95 (50 per box)
Sierra 300 MK=$24.95 (50 per box)
Hornady 250 BTHP=$27.95
Nosler 250 accubond=$29.95
Nosler 250 partition=$39.95
 
strictlyRUM .... ?, If So, Jason built me one...

Mine is a 300 Ultra Mag, Night Force NXS 5.5-22X50...

shawns300RUM2.jpg
 
I don't think too many people are in the position of buying a " price no object" 1500 yard gun. Wrong economic time.
I am by no means rich or well off, but this is my 1500+ yard rig.

AWAI in 338Lapua, with a Nightforce 5.5-22X56MM scope. I am waiting on the scope mount to be available. I wanted the 28MOA dovetail mount/ring combo for the 1500Yard+ shots. If I had the coin for a S&B with the 34MM body, I'd be in business. The rounds are not cheap, at 6.00 a shot. So you better be prepaired to roll your own. I fall into the later. I should be able to launch 300 grain Lapua's for around 1.00 a shot or less. My rifle is an 1997, so it has the 1-10" twist for the 300's. Every AI that was built after 97, has the 1-11" and may or may not stablize the 300gr.

That is my answer to the question. JPG
 
I finally got to test out my M40A1 in 300 win mag that Jason at Asylum arms did some work on. I had him set the barrel back, cut about .75 inch off the muzzle, recrown the muzzle, fit a 4 chamber wide style brake onto it, and he refinished the entire rifle at no extra charge. In a nice OD color.

At 300 yards, I'm averaging 1.34 inch groups for four groups fired. The best 300 yard group was .85 of an inch. I got one group that had a vertical spread of .3 inches, and horizontal spread (wind) of 1.27 inches. I had fears that the brake might reduce accuracy, but that wasn't the case. I'm using an Obermeyer 5R stainless barrel with a 1-11 twist.
185 grain Laupa scenar-moly
68.5 grains of IMR 4350
Federal 215M Primer
Winchester case
C.O.A.L. SAAMI max length
velocity 2960 fps

With the brake, recoil feels sort of like a lightweight 7x57 hunting rifle ...some snap, but not too bad. Very nice workmanship on the rifle, and it shoots better than I can. I think a benchrest shooter could get much better accuracy out of this rig than I do. I used a bipod in front, and a shot bag filled with sand for the rear of the rifle to shoot the groups.
 
I don't think any intelligent person would argue that Schmidt & Bender are not very high quality optics, as are the US Optics products. Many people just don't have the money to buy those optics, and instead, opt for good quality products that cost considerably less money so they can also afford to buy a rifle, ammo or other items.

Many of the Schmidt & Bender, and US optics scopes cost more money than some fellows can afford to spend for both their rifle and scope.

But, the OP here said price was no object, so with that in mind, I think the Schmidt & Bender, or US Optics are wonderful ideas. I really like the US optics because you can basically design any reticle you want, and although it will cost a bundle, they will make and install your "one of a kind, best in the world" reticle.
 

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