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Hmm, I like to use an MLP/RD Brass Deflector on my AR. It uses a proprietary elastic attachment/retention band. It works pretty well, though it can be hard to clean at times. Not too spendy, maybe about $15, but it's really gentle on the casings, giving them just a pleasant little 'kiss' as they exit the rifle. It also leaves them smelling like strawberries and rainbows :p


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MLP (My Little Pony) Brass Deflector - Rainbow Dash Model. Note that my daughter was VERY concerned that I would do something to harm her MLP, so she supervised this photo shoot ;)

IMG_5708a.JPG
 
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Hmm, I like to use an MLP Brass Deflector on my AR. It uses a proprietary elastic attachment/retention band. It works pretty well, though it can be hard to clean at times. Not too spendy, maybe about $15, but it's really gentle on the casings, giving them just a pleasant little 'kiss' as they exit the rifle. It also leaves them smelling like strawberries and rainbows :p


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MLP (My Little Pony) Brass Deflector - Rainbow Dash Model. Note that my daughter was VERY concerned that I would do something to harm her MLP, so she supervised this photo shoot ;)

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Oh yeah?! I use a T-Rex as my brass deflector. It roars too.
 
MLP (My Little Pony) Brass Deflector - Rainbow Dash Model. Note that my daughter was VERY concerned that I would do something to harm her MLP, so she supervised this photo shoot ;)

So you can certify that no MLP's were harmed in making this photo?:p

That's more than my range partner can say when he's shooting prone to my right!
 
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Hmm, I like to use an MLP Brass Deflector on my AR. It uses a proprietary elastic attachment/retention band. It works pretty well, though it can be hard to clean at times. Not too spendy, maybe about $15, but it's really gentle on the casings, giving them just a pleasant little 'kiss' as they exit the rifle. It also leaves them smelling like strawberries and rainbows :p


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MLP (My Little Pony) Brass Deflector - Rainbow Dash Model. Note that my daughter was VERY concerned that I would do something to harm her MLP, so she supervised this photo shoot ;)

View attachment 281133
If It has babies, I would like to call dibs on one of them :D
 
You call those dents? :)

I've reloaded far worse with no problem at all. They'll probably be nearly invisible after you size the brass.

I'll tell a story on myself, but I have to preface it with a disclaimer to keep the super-safety-conscious among us from giving me a beat down. I did this but I'm not recommending you do it, nor do I make any claim that it's necessarily safe, so copy my foolhardy bravado at your own peril:

Years ago I found about a box worth of .30-06 FC brass in the middle of a gravel logging road. They had been ran over repeatedly but I picked them up anyhow. A lot of the necks were seriously dented or crushed, and many had substantial body dents. I know from experience that the base of the brass is the all-important end and these were OK there, so I tried an experiment. I pried out the dents and creases with needle-nose pliers as best I could to fit them into the sizing die, annealed and proceeded to reload them. The first loading was very conservative, but subsequent loadings were fairly normal for an M1 Garand. The ones that had the worst crushed necks gave up the ghost after just a couple firings (split necks), but the rest kept going for many loadings. The old M1 gobbled them up without a hitch.

Yes, I can feel some of you guys gritting your teeth and sharpening your pitchforks (and keyboards), so I'll save you some time: when in doubt throw it out. Brass is cheap and it's not worth taking chances. What I did was stupid and irresponsible. How's that? :)

I certainly don't make a habit of loading junk brass nowadays, just chuck it in the scrap bin, but little tiny dents don't bother me in the slightest.
 
I have plenty of once-loaded brass rounds that have dents in the case. They always go bang.
 
Do you have an adjustable gas block?

I know how to make those dents disappear, but its a trade secret!!:D

No, I doubt it. Low profile on a floated barrel. I bought it off "The Wall" at Curt's. First AR and has about 150 rounds through it now.

Hmm, I like to use an MLP Brass Deflector on my AR. It uses a proprietary elastic attachment/retention band. It works pretty well, though it can be hard to clean at times. Not too spendy, maybe about $15, but it's really gentle on the casings, giving them just a pleasant little 'kiss' as they exit the rifle. It also leaves them smelling like strawberries and rainbows :p


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*MLP (My Little Pony) Brass Deflector - Rainbow Dash Model. Note that my daughter was VERY concerned that I would do something to harm her MLP, so she supervised this photo shoot ;)

View attachment 281133

That's what I like about NWFA, members will go WAY out of their way to help. Here, etrain16 goes digging in to his gun safe AND his stuffed animal drawer to illustrate his method of keeping his brass pristine! Don't think for one minute that your efforts here go un-appreciated my friend!

There is obviously at least one Russian made part on that rifle.. demanding that you use steel ammo, as is proper and fitting.

I doubt this one will ever get Russian ammo, though I do have on that does.

I may be over thinking this, just wanted to make sure. After I go through the 1000 rounds I bought I plan on reloading the brass I'll have from that K. If those dents were going to be a problem..? doesn't sound like it though. And if I put something on the deflector it may help.
 
That's what I like about NWFA, members will go WAY out of their way to help. Here, etrain16 goes digging in to his gun safe AND his stuffed animal drawer to illustrate his method of keeping his brass pristine! Don't think for one minute that your efforts here go un-appreciated my friend!

I was hoping you would enjoy the humor, I just couldn't resist Mike :p

Humor aside, I'll be curious to hear how well the Velcro solution works. I've not been concerned about my brass up to this point, but I may worry about it some day.
 
Humor aside, I'll be curious to hear how well the Velcro solution works.

Naw, it's okay. You can keep the humor 'Front and Center". I love a good chuckle!


I don't get the time to just head for the hills to shoot much. The Tillamook clean-up will be the next time I'm out somewhere to shoot I imagine.
 
Naw, it's okay. You can keep the humor 'Front and Center". I love a good chuckle!


I don't get the time to just head for the hills to shoot much. The Tillamook clean-up will be the next time I'm out somewhere to shoot I imagine.

I'm hoping to get to the range in the next week or two, if I think about it, I'll try out the Velcro on my AR and see what happens.
 
Other things that may affect this would be bolt carrier mass/weight, spring strength and buffer weight.There is this chart that I found on ARFcom, a while ago, when i was just beginning to build, to try and figure out where brass should be ejecting.

Not really sure if it is accurate or just opinion.
ARejectionpattern.jpg

I also use the velcro trick, not to keep the brass from denting (although that is also a benefit) but just to keep the receiver from getting marked up.
 
That chart is pretty accurate. That's why I asked where his brass was going. Seems like the extractor (I just noticed I've been using the wrong word this entire time :oops:) spring could use an upgrade. Considering the OP says his brass goes in the 3-4 o'clock area. >.>
 
Other things that may affect this would be bolt carrier mass/weight, spring strength and buffer weight.There is this chart that I found on ARFcom, a while ago, when i was just beginning to build, to try and figure out where brass should be ejecting.

Not really sure if it is accurate or just opinion.
View attachment 281212

I also use the velcro trick, not to keep the brass from denting (although that is also a benefit) but just to keep the receiver from getting marked up.

This.
 
In my experience (albeit limited) I rather prefer the m16 bolt carriers, and heavy buffers, at least H2. While I have and use a mix of regular carbine buffers, and heavier ones, I think the best results come from the heavy's.
 
I've had the David Tubbs Carrier Weight System installed on my DPMS LR308 which has a silicon impregnated hardened flatwire recoil spring (duty rated at 500,000 compared to the usual round wire spring which is rated at 20,00) as well as several weighted inserts that go in the rear of the bolt carrier. I've ended up not using the weight inserts, but the spring is a must in my opinion.
Recently I've gone to an A2 fixed stock with a standard buffer tube (opposed to the original carbine tube stock configuration) so I'll be doing some testing with the weight inserts to see if they are beneficial at all with the longer buffer travel.
The basic physics behind the overall CWS design being increased inertial mass resulting in longer hang time of the bolt and more regulated cycling (in absence of an adjustable gas block on my AR) and possibly better/consistent pressure in the barrel. The rearward movement and the rotation of the bolt head and subsequent ejection is tamed a bit too, so that's definitely a relevant point to consider. Of course every gun will be different and unique in it's performance, and some tweaks more suited to a particular make/design, but at minimum the increase power and duty of the recoil spring really tames the gun. This along with a Smith Enterprises Good Iron muzzle brake, and my own hand-loaded 168gr BTHP 2500fps rounds, makes my gun really perform well.
 
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Man I'm glad this rifle runs like it does. I can just barely wrap my mind around all the things you guys are talking about. Keep on going though, doing my best to soak it up! I'm gonna find a little sticky pad/Velcro and fix my self up fine I'm sure!
 
Man I'm glad this rifle runs like it does. I can just barely wrap my mind around all the things you guys are talking about. Keep on going though, doing my best to soak it up! I'm gonna find a little sticky pad/Velcro and fix my self up fine I'm sure!
ROFLMAO
Not laughing AT you, but WITH you :D
 

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