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why 5.56 over .223 wylde? same thing but wylde shoots .223 and 5.56 better. mine was half moa with ball 55 grain 5.56 xm193 ammo.
The problem with the statement is there is no way to objectively test the accuracy difference between .223 wylde and 5.56 chambers. There are always too many variables in play, meaning it could be anything else that makes one barrel more accurate than the other long before the chamber can be taken into consideration.

This is especially true for semiautos where the cartridge length has to fit the magwell.
 
Yes... what bobo said. I have a noveske 18" 5.56 that is 1/2 moa also... but it's nearly 5 bills and is very picky with ammo. some of my early reloads done with a full length die wont chamber. the wilde chamber has a little more forgiveness, and BA is very good for the money.
I just suggest not dismissing a barrel chambered .223 wylde if you find a profile you like.
 
The problem with the statement is there is no way to objectively test the accuracy difference between .223 wylde and 5.56 chambers. There are always too many variables in play, meaning it could be anything else that makes one barrel more accurate than the other long before the chamber can be taken into consideration.

This is especially true for semiautos where the cartridge length has to fit the magwell.
I guess I worded that wrong.. It is chambered to shoot both 5.56 and .223 better. meaning it was designed not to favor one over the other.
 
When going for just an all around carbine, one that can be used for home defense but still hit steel at distance, I wouldn't worry too much about the chamber. Nor would I be concerned with match grade barrels in general. A regular chrome lined barrel or nitrided barrel and 5.56 chamber is going to do all you need for that kind of build.

When building a match grade rifle, then I would show interest in match grade barrels and ammo. Chamber may or may not matter, some 5.56 barrels do shoot .223 accurately.
 
I've developed the opinion that you should always build your AR around the barrel... When your looking at only a $50 to $100 diference between a milspec standard barrel, and something like a Balistics Advantage premium barrel... it's worth considering the "buy once cry once" adage.
3 things make or break your accuracy
Barrel-Trigger-Glass
of the three Barrel is the hardest to replace, so to me it defines the build.
 
For a match grade build I certainly would look into it. Where precision isn't a big deal of the build, I wouldn't be concerned about it.

That being said the barrel is the only thing that'll make a big difference in accuracy. Triggers matter to some, to others not so much. However, I say this from a subjective standpoint as I'm used to heavy triggers, light triggers often don't have a predictable break for me (this can make or break it in regards to accuracy).
 
Considering I want a accurate rifle for what ever purpose I choose to use it for. I think the Wylde will be a great fit. If I was building a cheap blaster I wouldn't go this way but I already have one of those and want something nicer.

I did purchase the DLP upper and BCG. I am really looking forward to having a side charging upper and since I spent the extra money on it why not go big on the barrel as well. ;)
 
Considering I want a accurate rifle for what ever purpose I choose to use it for. I think the Wylde will be a great fit. If I was building a cheap blaster I wouldn't go this way but I already have one of those and want something nicer.

I did purchase the DLP upper and BCG. I am really looking forward to having a side charging upper and since I spent the extra money on it why not go big on the barrel as well. ;)
Spoken( rationalized) like a true AR addict! Welcome to the club!
 
Might as well spend big on glass too. As far as triggers go, any with a clean predictable break works.

I had a light (around 3-4 pound) trigger for the AK but there was no predictable break. Ended up replacing it with a trigger that is heavier but has a predictable break, and there was a lot of improvement just from that alone.
 
Actually, it's interesting to note that there's a trend of late with some boutique shops of taking 14.5's up to Mid and 16's up to a new "Intermediate."
I don't think that's a very good idea.
You are sacrificing proven "dwell" for what ?
Carbine gas is just right for 14.5" (read M4) and mid gas is just right for 16"

Edit for the NFG's :
As the bullet passes the barrel's gas port, the amount of time (milliseconds) it takes to exit the muzzle, is called "dwell".
This is the amount of time that the gas system is under pressure which is needed to work the action.
A rig with short dwell time, may not function with weaker loads.
 
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