Build Thread I want a custom AR

[11Charlie]

A lot of you know that I am doing some 80% lowers. I want to build a nice AR out of one of them and want to get your guys ideas and thoughts on parts.

Goal is to build a really nice handling, fairly light weight AR for steel plate shooting, home defense (more so on my property)but it would be nice to reach out to 4-500 yds if I want to bench shoot it.

If there is no option I will spend the money but would like to keep the cost down as much as possible the upper that I am going with is a side charge. I have always wanted one.

DLP Arms.com

I know a lot of you have built way more AR's than I have so let me hear it what do you love and hate and why. What parts would you finish your lower with?

@Kruejl has given me some ideas now I want to hear yours.

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[Boboclown]

Benchrest builds are heavy for a reason...

But if trying to have a do it all right, a 16" barrel, government profile if you're okay with it being thinner under the handguard.

 

[11Charlie]

Benchrest builds are heavy for a reason...

I get that but it is kinda like my Tikka. Its not heavy and I would carry it hunting but can reach out to 1000 yds. A 5.56 doesn't kick nearly has hard so I am sure I can come up with something that will accomodate both situations.

 

[Boboclown]

16"-18" is probably the most versatile barrel length for an AR. Government profile to keep weight down a little.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

i like ballistic advantage barrels

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

grendel build?

 

[hatchj]

I went with a ballistic advantage 16" Hanson profile barrel. They are pretty thin, and when shooting at paper, you'll see your groups open up a little. But the price was right seeing they come with pinned on gasblocks from the factory.

They're just a little lighter than a gov't profile barrel, but it is noticeable.

 

[tkotutone]

http://monmouthreloading.com/ Has great prices on BA barrels and other stuff. They ship fast also. I also went with a leupold scope for weight. They are lighter the most of them. The AR mod 1 is a nice scope for the price.

 

[DirectDrive]

A lot of you know that I am doing some 80% lowers. I want to build a nice AR out of one of them and want to get your guys ideas and thoughts on parts.

Goal is to build a really nice handling, fairly light weight AR for steel plate shooting, home defense (more so on my property)but it would be nice to reach out to 4-500 yds if I want to bench shoot it.

If there is no option I will spend the money but would like to keep the cost down as much as possible the upper that I am going with is a side charge. I have always wanted one.

DLP Arms.com

I know a lot of you have built way more AR's than I have so let me hear it what do you love and hate and why. What parts would you finish your lower with?

@Kruejl has given me some ideas now I want to hear yours.

I'v always wanted a side charger as well.
Always thought that it would be a Mega receiver set, but I got onto the CMT solution for a side charger.
I have it inbound and should have it by this weekend.

It's from billet, very sanitary and the ejection port is already opened up for big bore and this is going to be a 458 SOCOM.
I have never liked the idea of an ambi side charger with handles poking out both sides.

If you want a precision 5.56 (sounds like you do), consider the .223 Wylde chamber.
White Oak Armament (John Holliger, NM Champion) or Wilson Arms (from Rock River) for .223 Wylde barrels that will shoot for not a lot of money.

 

[Boboclown]

If going with a sidecharger try to go with one that can be swapped from one side to the other. Or at least one that is on the left side.

 

[Ura-Ki]

I really like the left side charge handle, with right side eject port! This config. will be my next build, likely a 14.5 inch mid heavy stainless Wylde chamber 1/7 twist. I have also been looking at the light weight BCG, and piston drive, but haven't settled on the specifics yet! All Billet would be pretty cool too!

 

[DirectDrive]

Righty side charger for me.
I do like left cranks on my fishing reels, though.

 

[11Charlie]

grendel build?

No I'm really thinking about just staying with 5.56 nato

If going with a sidecharger try to go with one that can be swapped from one side to the other. Or at least one that is on the left side.

The one I posted in my OP is a left or right side charge and right side eject. I really like the fact that I can charge from the left, right or both. Bright side is I can play with it and see which way I like it better.

 

[11Charlie]

I really like the left side charge handle, with right side eject port! This config. will be my next build, likely a 14.5 inch mid heavy stainless Wylde chamber 1/7 twist. I have also been looking at the light weight BCG, and piston drive, but haven't settled on the specifics yet! All Billet would be pretty cool too!

I'm really excited to try that upper.

 

[11Charlie]

What lower parts do you guys recommend for your nice AR's? I have the trigger already but might upgrade it and use the one I have in a pistol build.

 

[Ura-Ki]

I have been looking at them as well, haven't made up my mind yet! Last two I did were factory type ( CMMG I think) and they are very nice with a very smooth and consistent trigger pull of 4 pounds! I don't think I want any thing lighter, not in a multi use rifle that may see HD use. A Critter Gitter rifle would have a very light trigger, but it would also have a 20 in bull barrel too!

 

[Boboclown]

The one I posted in my OP is a left or right side charge and right side eject. I really like the fact that I can charge from the left, right or both. Bright side is I can play with it and see which way I like it better.

Take it from a guy who has a rifle that is right side charging, and rifles that are left side charging. Left side is much more ergonomic for right handed shooters.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

Aero precision LPK have never done me wrong though i usually change the FCG one way or another

 

[Boboclown]

Be sure to get a good quality trigger too. Weight doesn't matter as much as a clean predictable break.

 

[Kruel J]

IMO a LPK is a LPK, trigger notwithstanding. Maybe add some KNS dogbones instead of the factory pins too.