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IIRC - the transaxle is different for the bus/etc.
Yea but that doesn't preclude the platform from being used as buggies.. apparently these people did a similar thing, but it looks to be mainly just keep front cab metal and add box roll cage..
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Edit. What I was visualizing is something basically completely tube framed/chassis with no original VW bus sheetmetal except the floorpan.
 
Yea but that doesn't preclude the platform from being used as buggies.. apparently these people did a similar thing, but it looks to be mainly just keep front cab metal and add box roll cage..
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Edit. What I was visualizing is something basically completely tube framed/chassis with no original VW bus sheetmetal except the floorpan.
The pan is not really necessary if you have a full tube frame and the tube frame would be better. The pan is just a cheaper way to start the buggy. My first job as an adult was working in a VW/Porsche/Audi shop and there was a mech there who took a bus and shortened it, built the engine, then put big mud tires on it. He could pop wheelies with it and turn it around inside the shop.

The pans are not as strong as a tube frame and will eventually break without reinforcement.
 
The only real differences between the various models of V.W. are the pan length, payload ( Spring rate), transaxle gear ratios and axle strength, as well as a few rear suspension bits that are more desirable to have for a buggy build! NOTE, "Super Beatles" have a different pan and front suspension, not very many Sand Rail Buggy kits are made to take those parts! Also worth noting, there are Rail Kits that are designed to take custom long travel suspension systems, IF you go that route, make sure you get a compatible and complete suspension system from ONE single source that was designed for your Rail, other wise you better be a wizard and fab and welding and suspension tuning!

Most don't know this, BUT, the Myers Manx buggies have a shorter wheel base then a standard bug, so you have to cut your pan to shorten it! Some other "kits" require a full sized pan, and a very few require a bus pan! On most buggy tube frame kits, all you need is the front suspension beams and set up from your standard Bug, and what ever engine and transaxle you wish to run, and if you want to convert to Mid engine, you simply pull the transaxle apart enough to access the differential and simply flip it from left to right, and then put it all back together, though you need a custom aftermarket shifter kit and linkages, about $500 U.S! EMPI is your #1 Bug Based Buggy company, and in the PNW, Chenowth are the Gold Standard of frame kits, and some of the nicest you'll find! East Coast Sand Rails is also another popular kit, well designed and the welding is top shelf! Both have a pretty much plug and play fit and finish, so your standard V.W. parts will fit with out much if any adjustment! BTW, Chenowth offers a full long suspension chassis build front and rear, it's pretty much complete, you only add your shocks and springs of choice, and your golden!

This is one I helped build, full turbo Bug motor punched out to 2L and bus trans axle with aftermarket gear set and shifter, king shocks and alloy wheels, this thing is insanely fast and the suspension system makes it nice and soft riding, while able to handle pretty hard landings!
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The only real differences between the various models of V.W. are the pan length, payload ( Spring rate), transaxle gear ratios and axle strength, as well as a few rear suspension bits that are more desirable to have for a buggy build! NOTE, "Super Beatles" have a different pan and front suspension, not very many Sand Rail Buggy kits are made to take those parts! Also worth noting, there are Rail Kits that are designed to take custom long travel suspension systems, IF you go that route, make sure you get a compatible and complete suspension system from ONE single source that was designed for your Rail, other wise you better be a wizard and fab and welding and suspension tuning!

Most don't know this, BUT, the Myers Manx buggies have a shorter wheel base then a standard bug, so you have to cut your pan to shorten it! Some other "kits" require a full sized pan, and a very few require a bus pan! On most buggy tube frame kits, all you need is the front suspension beams and set up from your standard Bug, and what ever engine and transaxle you wish to run, and if you want to convert to Mid engine, you simply pull the transaxle apart enough to access the differential and simply flip it from left to right, and then put it all back together, though you need a custom aftermarket shifter kit and linkages, about $500 U.S! EMPI is your #1 Bug Based Buggy company, and in the PNW, Chenowth are the Gold Standard of frame kits, and some of the nicest you'll find! East Coast Sand Rails is also another popular kit, well designed and the welding is top shelf! Both have a pretty much plug and play fit and finish, so your standard V.W. parts will fit with out much if any adjustment! BTW, Chenowth offers a full long suspension chassis build front and rear, it's pretty much complete, you only add your shocks and springs of choice, and your golden!

This is one I helped build, full turbo Bug motor punched out to 2L and bus trans axle with aftermarket gear set and shifter, king shocks and alloy wheels, this thing is insanely fast and the suspension system makes it nice and soft riding, while able to handle pretty hard landings!
View attachment 1846462
I get what you're saying. What I'm trying to say... why don't these full tube cage designs exist? Why only cut down van bodies with some tubes? 20240319_135422.jpg
Crappy cell pic of sketch.

If its concern over tipping over like a Diahatsu/kei truck cabover, the VW eliminates by rear engine and weight distribution?
 
I get what you're saying. What I'm trying to say... why don't these full tube cage designs exist? Why only cut down van bodies with some tubes? View attachment 1846537
Crappy cell pic of sketch.

If its concern over tipping over like a Diahatsu/kei truck cabover, the VW eliminates by rear engine and weight distribution?
Me thinkith that it's all about Go Fast toys for sand and off road, the Van doesn't really fit that niche, and unless you had a Westy with its 4X4 transaxle, it's not going to be very good at much of anything other then it might look kinda cool!
 
Me thinkith that it's all about Go Fast toys for sand and off road, the Van doesn't really fit that niche, and unless you had a Westy with its 4X4 transaxle, it's not going to be very good at much of anything other then it might look kinda cool!
You've seen how stupidly popular 4x4/AWD vans have gotten in the last 10+ years, yeah? And dealers are finding its worth importing 25+ year old 4x4/AWD small vans like Toyota and Mitsubishis, to the US? Not to forget Pinzgauers/Haflingers and similar Euro 4x4 mini vans... I think some were able to import 25+ year old 4x4 VW combis/transporters too...

That tells me there's something that could be capitalized on.

A 6 seat people hauler 4x4 in full tube frame cage van with the same wheelbase as a long 2 seater sand rail? Why wouldn't that be fun!? ;)
 
You've seen how stupidly popular 4x4/AWD vans have gotten in the last 10+ years, yeah? And dealers are finding its worth importing 25+ year old 4x4/AWD small vans like Toyota and Mitsubishis, to the US? Not to forget Pinzgauers/Haflingers and similar Euro 4x4 mini vans... I think some were able to import 25+ year old 4x4 VW combis/transporters too...

That tells me there's something that could be capitalized on.

A 6 seat people hauler 4x4 in full tube frame cage van with the same wheelbase as a long 2 seater sand rail? Why wouldn't that be fun!? ;)
I never understood how the Side by Sides would ever become so damn popular, but here we are! Buddy just dropped nearly 40K on one, 40K for a cheaply made, prone to breaking buggy, he could have bought a Jeep Wrangler and been street legal in all 50 states, for less money, yet those damn things keep selling like there is no tomorrow!! Go figure! If I had his money, I would have bought an Older Ex German Army G-Wagon, and fixed that up into something super cool, probably would have been cheaper in the long run, and had a better and more useful rig!
 
I never understood how the Side by Sides would ever become so damn popular, but here we are! Buddy just dropped nearly 40K on one, 40K for a cheaply made, prone to breaking buggy, he could have bought a Jeep Wrangler and been street legal in all 50 states, for less money, yet those damn things keep selling like there is no tomorrow!! Go figure! If I had his money, I would have bought an Older Ex German Army G-Wagon, and fixed that up into something super cool, probably would have been cheaper in the long run, and had a better and more useful rig!
One day my brother and I were heading back to Monmouth area after a day of thrifting for reselling, on the I-5, passed us an obviously lifted, modified 4x4 rig.. I took note of a sticker in its window and pointed out to my bro that the owner of that rig is not a poser.. because they also have the Oregon ATV permit sticker on it, not just street tags. Easiest way to tell the difference between a very well maintained and used off roader and a pavement princess/Mall crawler rig besides the chrome and shiny paint :s0140:
 
Since the front axles blew out on my FZJ80 Landcruiser and need rebuilding, I'm also pondering whether to swap the 1FZ engine for a Mercedes diesel. I'm currently looking at a running OM603 for $1,500, but am wondering whether I should hold out for an OM617 (more reliability) or an OM606 (more power).
And before anyone suggests a Cummins 4BT or 6BT as a swap, those things are stupid expensive and don't offer anything better, IMO.
Edit to add : one question I haven't ironed out yet is whether I may have to change things for OR DEQ emissions. As I understand thus far, because my system is pre-OBDII, as long as I re-register the vehicle as a diesel powered, I'm GTG.
 
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Go figure! If I had his money, I would have bought an Older Ex German Army G-Wagon, and fixed that up into something super cool, probably would have been cheaper in the long run, and had a better and more useful rig!
A surplus Geländewagen would likely have much better resale too. Saw a video of one recently, modded, that was pushing 450bhp.
 
Something to think about: if it hit the fan, there would be no rules of the road so why not rely on heavy equipment? There's plenty of old emp proof loaders and dozers you could get around with real well. Not quickly, but effectively
 
And before anyone suggests a Cummins 4BT or 6BT as a swap, those things are stupid expensive and don't offer anything better, IMO.
The 4BT is too heavy for a Toyota PU or FJ and its powerband (peak power @ ~2K RPM) isn't meant for light small vehicles like the FJ. Some guy on Reddit tried to tell me I should put a 4BT in my Toy PU. :rolleyes:
It would be a waste of time/effort and money. I love the 6BT in my Dodge flatbed, but that truck weighs 3X what my pickup weighs.

Edit to add : one question I haven't ironed out yet is whether I may have to change things for OR DEQ emissions. As I understand thus far, because my system is pre-OBDII, as long as I re-register the vehicle as a diesel powered, I'm GTG.
AFAIK - you need a GVWR of 10K# for a diesel to be exempt from DEQ where DEQ is required for vehicles (I look forward to moving out of WA county to get away from DEQ). Other than that I don't know about lighter vehicles, but yes, I would expect that if the host vehicle is pre-OBD then you would be GTG, but check before attempting the swap.

In general, if the engine meets emission std of the year of the host vehicle, then you are ok.
 
Since the front axles blew out on my FZJ80 Landcruiser and need rebuilding, I'm also pondering whether to swap the 1FZ engine for a Mercedes diesel. I'm currently looking at a running OM603 for $1,500, but am wondering whether I should hold out for an OM617 (more reliability) or an OM606 (more power).
And before anyone suggests a Cummins 4BT or 6BT as a swap, those things are stupid expensive and don't offer anything better, IMO.
Edit to add : one question I haven't ironed out yet is whether I may have to change things for OR DEQ emissions. As I understand thus far, because my system is pre-OBDII, as long as I re-register the vehicle as a diesel powered, I'm GTG.
Take it from someone who has done diesel swaps on many rigs, the 4BT is WAY too heavy for your Toyota, the MBZ OM-617 would be the better swap over all, plenty of power once you do all the pump upgrades and turbo, or if you want stupid wheel spinning power, the OM-606 is your huckleberry, that engine will pin a grin on your face from the moment you put it in gear till you shut it off! I swapped a OM-606 into my Sprinter when the stock 3L V-6 went tits up, it was NOT an easy swap, but Holy Hell, what a difference, like night and day! We went from about 198 HP to over 380 HP and fuel milage actually increased, ( As long as I keep my right foot out of the Loud Pedal) and towing power went through the roof! In Hindsight, the OM-617 would have likely been the better swap, it sure would have been easier to get it to fit, and the power would have been more then adequate for the Sprinter, quite a bit more then the stock engine would ever have made, Bonus, is no computers to get all janked up, and sensors to fail, and the GM 4L80 trans worked out perfectly! Go on the Land Rover forums if you want to know all about Diesel Swaps, and what to look for and what to avoid! For small size Jeeps and the like, the Kubota V2203 and V2403 series engines are getting super popular, and I know it's only a matter of time before folks start to figure out the Yanmar 4 bangers are even better, going to be attempting a Yanmar swap into a CJ-3B here this summer!

The Cummins has it's place, and when you need THAT kind of power, there are only a couple other options, usually painted Cat Yellow and costing at least TWICE as much, but,.........................if you want to play in that league, you gotta be willing to spend the coin!
 
Guess it really depends on where ;)

With how soggy things have been lately.. and my specific town having the sticky clay soil... things will bog down if not on a thick layer of gravel/rocks.

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Yup - I have gotten tracked machines stuck more than once, not buried, but they could not move.

Weight is the Great Satan off-road. Tracks help, but nothing is impervious to bottomless mud.
 

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