- Messages
- 73
- Reactions
- 57
I like it. My roomates like it. And it smells amazing!! Its a keeper for me.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
WD40 is hydroscopic, meaning it attracts moisture.. it's also too thin for lube
This may be a bit "old school" ,, but I've used Mercruiser synthetic gear lube for out drives for years and years to oil all my guns and it makes them super easy to clean up after using corrosive ammo and makes slides and actions super smooth. I've got one new gun I've put > 2K rounds through so far and there isn't even a speck of bluing wear on the slide or frame so far, so must be it works well. Cheap too by comparison, a pint bottle was like 3-4 bucks and I've been using the same bottle for 5-6 years and it's only about half gone and my stable contains over 100 guns that get used allot, so it goes along ways besides.
Most of these new products are nothing more than overpriced oil, in a spray can,,,synthetic gear lube and carb cleaner have been my go-to's for years. Just don't let carb cleaner get on composite or wood stocks/grips/frames or gun coat type finishes,,,that WILL fug them up!!!! Use carb cleaner on "real steel " only.
But then again all my guns , other than a couple are real steel,,,not Tupperware, so that method works well for me. PS,,,care full of plastic base plates too,,,,unless you like the "wrinkle finish look!!! LOL!!!
Carb cleaner REALLY cleans out that powder fowling and old cosmoline, and great for surplus stocks you're getting ready for refinish as a "final rinse", just let them air dry for quite a while if refinishing a stock though. It will really pull out the oil and cosmoline on old milsurp stocks and actions.
I'm curious to know more about the 'mould' you experienced? Also, it's always been plant based.
I too am slowly switching to Seal1, just using up what's left of the FL. However, per my question above, i am showing odd 'white-ish/brown-ish' portions around the rib mounts on my wifes shotgun barrel, i bubblegum myself thinking this new barrel had rusted. However just wiping it with a cuetip, it came straight off leaving it showing brand new underneath.
I have put it down to those places having residual oil left; the rib stanchions are going to be very difficult to get the oil out of upon my initial degreasing.
Finally, i will add to your CLP comment, whilst i agree, i will also say that i'd rather only use this kind of thing for the LP portion, if it's the initial application or a complete clean, i would always want to use something capable of removing everything, MPro7 cleaner is my choice.
I do know that given long enough, the froglube will react with any petroleum stuff left and and i'm assuming that's what i'm seeing.