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I've been using it for about a year. Seems to make cleanup after shooting easier. The biggest surprise to me was how far it goes. I've maybe used 10% of my little tub.
 
Not sure the term 'degreasing' would be correct for WD40, but it will have penetration powers to help cleaning.
 
This may be a bit "old school" ,, but I've used Mercruiser synthetic gear lube for out drives for years and years to oil all my guns and it makes them super easy to clean up after using corrosive ammo and makes slides and actions super smooth. I've got one new gun I've put > 2K rounds through so far and there isn't even a speck of bluing wear on the slide or frame so far, so must be it works well. Cheap too by comparison, a pint bottle was like 3-4 bucks and I've been using the same bottle for 5-6 years and it's only about half gone and my stable contains over 100 guns that get used allot, so it goes along ways besides.

Most of these new products are nothing more than overpriced oil, in a spray can,,,synthetic gear lube and carb cleaner have been my go-to's for years. Just don't let carb cleaner get on composite or wood stocks/grips/frames or gun coat type finishes,,,that WILL fug them up!!!! Use carb cleaner on "real steel " only.

But then again all my guns , other than a couple are real steel,,,not Tupperware, so that method works well for me. PS,,,care full of plastic base plates too,,,,unless you like the "wrinkle finish look!!! LOL!!!

Carb cleaner REALLY cleans out that powder fowling and old cosmoline, and great for surplus stocks you're getting ready for refinish as a "final rinse", just let them air dry for quite a while if refinishing a stock though. It will really pull out the oil and cosmoline on old milsurp stocks and actions.


Going to have to try the Mercuiser gear lube, 3 outboards and a stern drive. So I keep some on hand, I change the lower gear oil every year. Cheaper then gears and a tow back to the dock.
 
Been using Froglube for the past few months. I did a full treatment on both my guns:
1) Stripped them down as far a I was comfortable (didn't take apart the trigger groups and such)
2) Throughouly cleaned them with a petroleum based cleaner (my 10/22 hadn't been cleaned as thoroughly as I should have in the past)
3) Removed the petroleum based cleaner with rubbing alcohol
4) Heated all the parts and worked in Froglube
5) After all parts where treated I wiped down each part as much as possible leaving only what had "soaked in"
6) Next cleaning I repeated 4&5 to get a good seasoning

Now I've just been field stripping, wiping down the parts with a microfiber. Half the towel has some froglube rubbed into it I use this side to wipe a bit more Froglube on parts that see a lot of fouling or wear. Seems to be much easier to clean thus far and my wife allows me to clean on the kitchen table since there is no unpleasant smell (as opposed to being banished to the garage)
 
When you're ready, switch your cleaner to a water based version such as mpro 7, then you can skip a step ND do that part inside as well :)
 
FL has jumped the shark with me. They changed their formulation to a plant or vegetable based product which has caused us major problems. Mold growth (on longer stored weapons), very sluggish in cold weather to the point where a 1911 would not go into battery. So their solution to this problem was to have you buy and use their degreaser before applying FL or after long storage. No thanks. Isn't the whole premise of a CLP product to have one product to Clean, Lube and Protect?

We have switched to Seal-1. No degreasing, no solvents or petroleum based products. For me, it's what FL wanted to be. I only need one product now. It melts the carbon on contact and my actions and slides are like sling shots now.

Mike
 
I'm curious to know more about the 'mould' you experienced? Also, it's always been plant based.

I too am slowly switching to Seal1, just using up what's left of the FL. However, per my question above, i am showing odd 'white-ish/brown-ish' portions around the rib mounts on my wifes shotgun barrel, i bubblegum myself thinking this new barrel had rusted. However just wiping it with a cuetip, it came straight off leaving it showing brand new underneath.

I have put it down to those places having residual oil left; the rib stanchions are going to be very difficult to get the oil out of upon my initial degreasing.


Finally, i will add to your CLP comment, whilst i agree, i will also say that i'd rather only use this kind of thing for the LP portion, if it's the initial application or a complete clean, i would always want to use something capable of removing everything, MPro7 cleaner is my choice.

I do know that given long enough, the froglube will react with any petroleum stuff left and and i'm assuming that's what i'm seeing.
 
I'm curious to know more about the 'mould' you experienced? Also, it's always been plant based.

I too am slowly switching to Seal1, just using up what's left of the FL. However, per my question above, i am showing odd 'white-ish/brown-ish' portions around the rib mounts on my wifes shotgun barrel, i bubblegum myself thinking this new barrel had rusted. However just wiping it with a cuetip, it came straight off leaving it showing brand new underneath.

I have put it down to those places having residual oil left; the rib stanchions are going to be very difficult to get the oil out of upon my initial degreasing.


Finally, i will add to your CLP comment, whilst i agree, i will also say that i'd rather only use this kind of thing for the LP portion, if it's the initial application or a complete clean, i would always want to use something capable of removing everything, MPro7 cleaner is my choice.

I do know that given long enough, the froglube will react with any petroleum stuff left and and i'm assuming that's what i'm seeing.

It was mold. Furry mold.

I have spent a lot of time trying to find a failure with Seal-1. From cleaning museum quality firearms that were stored for over 30 years with WD-40 on them that had turned to varnish to running suppressed sub machine guns to cleaning barrles of world class benchrest shooters. It has surpassed my expectations. I use no other cleaning products or lubes. I clean it with Seal-1, wipe it off and shoot.

This saves me money and time which is also money to me. I am impressed with it. Do yourself a favor take a dirty weapon clean the whole weapon with nothing but the Seal-1 including the barrel. Don't put any thing else on it. Go out and shoot it for a while and clean it agai and see what you think.
 
Thanks for the update.
I do have Seal1 right now, as i said, it's now my LP, for detail strips etc, i'll degrease first, but otherwise i'll just CLP it.

I'm merely using the FL up, so that pat where you'd traditionally use an oily rag to wipe down all other surfaces? that gets FL'ed to death :D
 
After reading this mold stuff, I ran to check my gun safe. No spots of white or anything else on my 12 assorted rifles and shotguns, all of which have been FL'd. Even the ones that have sat in the safe for the year+ since I switched are nice and clean. I might have to go dirty them up soon.
 
I started using Frog Lube for only certain guns but now I use it exclusively on all my guns. I really like the solvent, spraying parts with it then just wiping away the grime. Especially .22's and AR's.
 

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