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Ditto this!bad idea
No to your question about the .38 and .357 cases however you can get excessive buildup in the cylinder shooting a lot of .38s in a .357 gun - regardless of the charge HOWEVER to 'expand on why' it's all about safety. Ammo can get lost, forgotten etc. no matter how diligent you are about marking them and ensuring you don't give it away or sell it.Thanks. Could you expand on why?
Agreed, thanks. I'm not planning to do this, I was just wondering in the case of a dire straits WROL situation where I've got to use what's on hand.No to your question about the .38 and .357 cases however you can get excessive buildup in the cylinder shooting a lot of .38s in a .357 gun - regardless of the charge HOWEVER to 'expand on why' it's all about safety. Ammo can get lost, forgotten etc. no matter how diligent you are about marking them and ensuring you don't give it away or sell it.
Wouldn't you be a bit stressed if you lost or forgot some ammo while out shooting?
Are you having a seriously hard time finding .357 brass ? If so I can probably spare some. How much are you looking for?
That definitely is an excellent reason! Cheers.38 Special brass is made to withstand about 16,000 psi where as 357's operating preessures can be as high as about 40,000. Not all brass is made equal. By putting the higher pressure load in the smaller cases you will be over pressuring even more. So BAD idea over all.
I'll see what I got and get back with you. They will be nickel plated and I'd just send 'em to ya !How many would be worth your while to spare
Well in that case, you use what's on hand & make .38. Normal .38.Agreed, thanks. I'm not planning to do this, I was just wondering in the case of a dire straits WROL situation where I've got to use what's on hand...
Absolutely! You've spent the time working up the loads for you, which work for you, with tools available in normalcy.I do the unspeakable....
I consistently load .38 brass to .357 levels. In fact, I have some .38 brass that's been loaded hot over 15 times and still going strong.
Note:
Only I shoot my ammo.
I only own guns chambered in .357 (no .38 specials.)
I shoot my ammunition exclusively on my own property.
In the thousands of rounds I've loaded, only one case has separated upon extraction, and it was easily removed. (Could of happened at any charge level when using old brass.)
I'm not recommending you do it, but it can be done, and I'll continue to do it.
editedHi folks, when reloading 38 Spc with powders like Titegroup I've noticed the case is not very full.
Is it possible to +P 38 cases to .357 mag charges safely? I ask because 357 brass isn't easily accessible right now.
Thanks in advance.
Not as long as the OP sticks with established data for the powder.The scary part here is using a powder like Titegroup for magnum handgun charges.
Sure enough, there's data for Titegroup for .357mag. There's also data for Clays which is even faster than Titegroup. I've never been a magnum handgun fan so have dabbled very little in the category. I edited above.Not as long as the OP sticks with established data for the powder.
A lot of very fast powders have data that show loads in the 'magnum' category but they are not excessive.
NOW if he is EXCEEDING posted data then that of course would not be safe - regardless of the powder used.
Neither have I . The only time I have ever loaded 'full house' .357 was for my two .357 rifles (one now) but I have found a nice 'light' load that shoots well out of both my Henry and my Mod 66 Smith and that's all I need to kill pine cones with!I've never been a magnum handgun fan so have dabbled very little in the category.
Indeed.Thunderous recoil and report not needed!