Which would you buy? .223 AR-15 Ammo Question

[PNWHunter]

So I just purchased my first AR-15 last week (Windham Weaponry MPC $729.99), and I am now looking to purchase 1000 rounds of .223 to go shooting.

So my question is: For trianing/plinking/messing around would you recommend purchasing Wolf Poly or Wolf Gold?

The poly is obviously the standard steel case russian ammo, and the gold is brass cased with a FMJ lead core bullet (not bimetal).

I found the Wolf Gold for $339.99/1000rds and the Poly for $287.00/1000rds. (Difference roughly ~$55.00)

The reason I am asking is because I found this article: http://www.luckygunner.com/labs/brass-vs-steel-cased-ammo/

Essentially, since a new barrel and components kit costs roughly $250.00 (even checked windhams website), would you guys just shoot steel case ammo for thousands of rounds and just purchase a new barrel kit with the money saved by shooting the cheaper ammo? Obviously the steel cased ammo barrel would need to be re-barreled far sooner than the brass based ammo barrel. More than likely would replace the extractor also if not earlier.

After 5000 rounds, the barrel kit has paid for itself, and I'm just trying to make sure my though process isn't overlooking anything. For serious use, I'm gonna stock up on XM193, but I'm just wanting some input for target rounds. I'm planning on shooting a good amount through this rifle.

I've heard that the Wolf Gold brass is really soft, and thus is usually only good for 3 reloads, but maybe someone can comment on that also.

Thanks!

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[3MTA3]

If I have a second one that I keep ready for use when it counts, I'd say no issue with the steel ammo in my everyday rifle. If I only have one I want it kept in as good a condition as I can. I'm stocking up on XM-193 which I'll reload to something a little less Geneva Convention for defense.

Don't forget some M855 for SHTF in you need more penetration, like through body armor.

 

[mjbskwim]

I'm confused.
What does the steel case have to do with the barrel?
It may break extractors but it shouldn't have any effect on the barrel.I'm pretty sure the chamber is harder than the steel cases

Why buy it when the brass stuff is just pennies more?

 

[PNWHunter]

I'm confused.
What does the steel case have to do with the barrel?
It may break extractors but it shouldn't have any effect on the barrel.I'm pretty sure the chamber is harder than the steel cases

Why buy it when the brass stuff is just pennies more?

I've read that the bimetal bullet in the steel will wear the rifling in the barrel faster than the FMJ in the brass cased ammo because the bimetal bullet has such a thin copper jacket

 

[John Gault]

You could buy brass ammo and sell the once fired brass to a reloader if that pencils out...

 

[mjbskwim]

Copper over , say, lead?
Never heard such a thing but the brass stuff won't hurt your gun so why use something else?

 

[Nwcid]

Well nobody better tell my rifles Wolf is bad for them or they might start not liking it thousands of rounds later.............

No it will NOT wear out your barrel any faster.

One thing that may/can happen is quicker extractor wear. Even if you had to replace 1 $5 extractor every case you are still ahead. It would take WAY over 5k ammo to wear out a gun/barrel. Get what can for the best price and have fun.

 

[jmille05]

Wolf works well through my bushy, but if you can find it, PMC 223 bronze is a very accurate and clean round. Plus their brass holds up well if you reload.

 

[aznbala]

Psa has xm193's for $.38 a round with free shipping

 

[PNWHunter]

Psa has xm193's for $.38 a round with free shipping

Thanks for posting that! Just made my choice incredibly easy.

 

[KillerBD]

I don't think you will go wrong with polymer or lacquer coated stuff, but my choice would be the brass or, go with zinc-plated (if they even make it for 5.56/.223?).

Sorry, I know I'm out of my lane a bit. Don't personally own an AR, but I do shoot a bit of TulAmmo, but have bought some 'Silver Bear' stuff as well. For me, have had ZERO issues with any TulAmmo I've shot thus far (7.62x39 and .308).

I know their is always a rash of people with the age old: "Why would ya buy that cheap Russian crap."
Simple economics. Nothing wrong with the standards or methods the Russians produce their ammunition (mostly referring to lacquer or polymer coated stuff), sure directly compared to typical 'brass cased' stuff, its less desirable.

When you factor in price per round or bulk buying... Its difficult to turn it down, if the Russian made ammunition was really as bad as I've seen some 'trolls' tout, it probably wouldn't sell so well on the US market. In many ways I view the 'Russian/European ammo haters' similar to anti-Glock people [because they saw a video of one blowing up]...

With much higher volumes of any product, will come far more prominence for people to encounter (or cause) faults.

 

[aznbala]

tula is great for an AK. Anything is great for an AK. That's the beauty!

 

[mjbskwim]

tula is great for an AK. Anything is great for an AK. That's the beauty!

Yeah I was gunna say that's apples to oranges.
ARs care AKs don't

 

[KillerBD]

^Apparently works just fine in the M1A as well

But yes, I see your point...

 

[Certaindeaf]

Get both. Those seem like good prices. If you reload, obviously the brass is more desirable than the steel.

 

[keeseckb]

I just purchased a Windham MPC as well and have shot both the Wolf steel and Wolf brass through it, about 200 rds each. The steel has had a couple of sticky cases when the gun is warm and it is definately "dirtier" than the brass. The Wolf Gold Brass is great! Really hard to beat for quality and price.

Windham recommends you use brass case to break in the rifle... see <broken link removed> ,

 

[rkalbiar]

Wolf Gold for $.034 a round!? Where do you get that?

 

[Caveman Jim]

Why go for Wolf Gold when PMC Bronze (premium quality) is $400 per thou?

 

[Mr Smith]

personally I would do like suggested earlier: brass cartridges and either sell the spent brass to someone who re-loads, or reload them yourself.

reloading will save you about $0.10/rd if you already have the brass which translates to about $100 savings per 1,000 rounds.

(this is with cost of lube, tumbling media, powder, primers, and bullets factored in. this does not include the cost of equipment. though equipment will usually pay for itself in savings after 2k-3k rounds)

If you don't choose to reload, selling the brass can get you a nice chunk of change back to put towards your next case of ammo

 

[biggie24420]

If my gun is picky with brass or steel cased ammo, I'd sell the darn thing!