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Whether you like it or not, hunters are going to be shooing longer distances at game. What I don't like is hunters will talk about taking game at long distance as if it is easy, but rarely talk about the rifles, scopes, and equipment that they use, or how they practice to make sure they take an ethical shot.

I'd like to hear what people are using.

-Rifle
-Caliber
-Scope
-Rest/shooting sticks/ ect
-How you calculate/adjust for drop
-What you use to read the wind and how you adjust for wind
-How you practice
-How much you practice

Because we know people are going to take long shots now at game due to the hunting shows and conversations on forums, it is important for those considering it to know just how difficult it is, and how to prepare for it.
 
Kidding aside, I speak against custom turrets. It drives me up the wall when I hear people talk about them. Sorry if I have offended you. Now I will break the news to some that ballistics are not a constant and change with weather, elevation and even the direction you are pointing the rifle. How do we solve this problem? Purchase a rifle that shoots under 3/4 MOA (5-shot groups) then a scope that has a solid reputation for reliable tracking (SWFA SS is the cheapest that seem to work) Next step is the fun part, go shoot a couple hundred rounds at varying distances and from field positions. You will learn your limits and have a great time.
 
I plan (hope) to set up a longer target practice range on the farm this Summer. Right now the farthest target I have is 160 yards. Hoping to stretch it out to 6-700 yards.

I have two rifles in .308, and they have identical scopes. The scopes are Leupold VX6 1-6 firedot, and I did get the CDS (custom dial system) for them. Leupold made the dials for me based on the rifle, the cartridge, the elevation, etc. (First custom dial for each scope was free.)

I got a Leica 2000B rangefinder. It has more bells and whistles than I need right now, but it's easy to use.

I'm using Hornady ELD-X Precision Hunter 178 grain cartridges. The farthest I've shot them so far is 200 yards, and they work well in both rifles.

If my health will allow I'll get the longer range targets set up when the weather clears, and do some shooting with the younger men in the family. I'm using muzzle brakes and padded buttstocks to make the recoil as soft as possible.

I got some shooting sticks that were supposed to be a great help stabilizing the rifle, but found them to be more trouble than they're worth. They're sort of like fold-up tent poles. Haven't tried any others yet, but those sticks they use over in the U.K. look interesting. Maybe I'll give them a test drive. The rifles are set up for a bipod.

@Otter - Where are you located?
 
One of the more important pieces of gear the OP neglected to mention is a good chrono. It's hard to get DOPE if you dont know how fast your bullet is going.
 
I'd like to hear what people are using.

-Rifle
-Caliber
-Scope
-Rest/shooting sticks/ ect
-How you calculate/adjust for drop
-What you use to read the wind and how you adjust for wind
-How you practice
-How much you practice

Rifle: Remington M700 w/26 inch barrel, bedded into a McMillan stock.

Caliber: 7mm Rem Mag, 168gr Nosler Accubond LR, Reloader 26, CCI magnum primer, Hornady brass.

Scope: Leupold VX3 4.5-14x40 w/M1 Turret, regular duplex reticle.

Rest: Sometimes Harris Bipod, mostly over a pack, always use a butt bag when prone. If sitting because I'm on a slope, I use a set of home-made shooting sticks made from aluminum arrow shafts (effective tange decreases).

Drop calculation, adjustments: I use a ballistics calculator to get me close (chrono load and know BC if bullet). I verify drop using butcher paper as a target to give me plenty of target. Record actual drop, laugh at how different it is over the calculator.

Wind: Get to know what wind is like. Walk the range and post flags (I use marking ribbon). Borrow my friends Kestrel to measure wind and note what that wind does to the flags. Make note of that because friend wants his stuff back. Shoot a lot.

Practice: Shoot a lot. An 8 twist 223 with 68gr Match makes a great understudy rifle thats cheap to shoot and recoils minimally. Shoot the actual rifle too.

How Often: Develop loads in April/May. Try to shoot several times a month. Only hunt at distances you've shot.
 
Drone-Firing.jpg

It's still hunting, right?
 
Oh heck, when I read the title I thought the OP was asking about leaving Portland to get good "sound shots" in the Starkey unit!!!! Never mind. ;):D
 
-Rifle ----- SAVAGE 112 FVSS
-Caliber----300WM LOADS NOT SOLD IN STORES
-Scope ----BURRIS ELIMINATOR III
-Rest/shooting sticks/ ect----BRING MY OWN
-How you calculate/adjust for drop----SCOPE DOES IT FOR ME
-What you use to read the wind and how you adjust for wind---SCOPE DOES IT FOR ME
-How you practice----
-How much you practice---NOT AS MUCH AS I WOULD LIKE
FIRST 3 SHOTS WITH THIS CONFIGURATION RANG STEEL AT 473 YARDS
HOPE THIS HELPS
 
I plan (hope) to set up a longer target practice range on the farm this Summer. Right now the farthest target I have is 160 yards. Hoping to stretch it out to 6-700 yards.

I have two rifles in .308, and they have identical scopes. The scopes are Leupold VX6 1-6 firedot, and I did get the CDS (custom dial system) for them. Leupold made the dials for me based on the rifle, the cartridge, the elevation, etc. (First custom dial for each scope was free.)

I got a Leica 2000B rangefinder. It has more bells and whistles than I need right now, but it's easy to use.

I'm using Hornady ELD-X Precision Hunter 178 grain cartridges. The farthest I've shot them so far is 200 yards, and they work well in both rifles.

If my health will allow I'll get the longer range targets set up when the weather clears, and do some shooting with the younger men in the family. I'm using muzzle brakes and padded buttstocks to make the recoil as soft as possible.

I got some shooting sticks that were supposed to be a great help stabilizing the rifle, but found them to be more trouble than they're worth. They're sort of like fold-up tent poles. Haven't tried any others yet, but those sticks they use over in the U.K. look interesting. Maybe I'll give them a test drive. The rifles are set up for a bipod.

@Otter - Where are you located?


I have some home made shooting sticks I made with dowels and Paracord with screws on the bottom to stick in the dirt, it's worked pretty well but I ended up finding a fold up tripod, the tent pole kind, haven't used them yet but I'll let you know.

Haven't really been able to stretch past maybe 60 yards shooting on BLM with my Ruger 10/22, just picked up a 223 Howa and only shot it twice but so far I like it.
 
I have some home made shooting sticks I made with dowels and Paracord with screws on the bottom to stick in the dirt, it's worked pretty well but I ended up finding a fold up tripod, the tent pole kind, haven't used them yet but I'll let you know.

Haven't really been able to stretch past maybe 60 yards shooting on BLM with my Ruger 10/22, just picked up a 223 Howa and only shot it twice but so far I like it.

I did something similar using aluminum arrow shafts. I used field tips to dig in the ground. Firehose pieces to make the joint.
 
Rifle: Remington M700 w/26 inch barrel, bedded into a McMillan stock.

Caliber: 7mm Rem Mag, 168gr Nosler Accubond LR, Reloader 26, CCI magnum primer, Hornady brass.

Scope: Leupold VX3 4.5-14x40 w/M1 Turret, regular duplex reticle.

Rest: Sometimes Harris Bipod, mostly over a pack, always use a butt bag when prone. If sitting because I'm on a slope, I use a set of home-made shooting sticks made from aluminum arrow shafts (effective tange decreases).

Drop calculation, adjustments: I use a ballistics calculator to get me close (chrono load and know BC if bullet). I verify drop using butcher paper as a target to give me plenty of target. Record actual drop, laugh at how different it is over the calculator.

Wind: Get to know what wind is like. Walk the range and post flags (I use marking ribbon). Borrow my friends Kestrel to measure wind and note what that wind does to the flags. Make note of that because friend wants his stuff back. Shoot a lot.

Practice: Shoot a lot. An 8 twist 223 with 68gr Match makes a great understudy rifle thats cheap to shoot and recoils minimally. Shoot the actual rifle too.

How Often: Develop loads in April/May. Try to shoot several times a month. Only hunt at distances you've shot.

The part about the calcs based on speed and bullet data not being accurate real world is spot on. It is a good baseline to start from, but must be proven out in the field. If you use any kind of ballistic reticle you are better off adjusting scope to match actual field data at the furthest ranges you will shoot. The possible descrepency this creates at the shorter distances is tolerable unless you are trying to shoot an eyeball out. :cool:
 
I think alot of the discrepancies between actual poi and what your ballistics calculator says it should be, is from bullet manufacturers being completely full of bubblegum with their listed BC.
 
There are several recent threads in this section that cover all of the questions you asked and more.
 

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