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Use it by itself, it's just a very concentrated surfactant and water conditioner. This mimics the action of the Dawn / Lemishine combo that many are using.

In a side note, you are using far more Dawn than any others I know about. I use a "strong squirt" which probably amonnts to 1/3 the amount you are using. I would think an 1/8 cup would take longer to completely rinse. How did you arrive at that amount?

I'm tumbling a couple of batches of .5.56 today and will.try more soap with one so I can compare the cleaning results and rinse time. I'll report back what I find if anybody cares to hear?

PS: I love the Franklin wet tumbler which replaced a Dillon FL 2000 that finally died. Spotless brass (inside and out), any "iffy" post-firing compounds removed (lead, salts etc.), low noise, (can actually work in the same room and carry on a conversation while tumbling) no lead laced dust to breath (from the primer residue) and the process takes less time even when factoring drying time if you use some form of low level heat, like a warm oven. Just my take on it.
I'd love to hear back on your results. That qty of soap is what was recommended to me here (I believe in this thread). I did use about 1/2 that this last batch, and it seemed to clean just fine. On a side note, my batch loads have only been about 130-160 .308 cases, albeit, they had some nasty green corrosion in many of the primer pockets and inside some of the necks as well.
 
I'm quite curious to see how the Frankford arsenal brass cleaning solution does on my last batch tomorrow morning...
 
I've ran 1000 .223 in my F.A.R.T. as well as 1400 9mm on two separate occasions.

I just extended the run time and all came out fine.
 
Ok, results from the Frankford arsenal brass cleaning solution. The Frankford takes the win! Same tumble time, same qty of brass, same water temperature.


One on the left is the Frankford arsenal. One on the right was Dawn dish soap and Lemishine. Both tumbled for ~ 2 1/2 hours.

image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
Only read pages 1 & 2 (lazy mf'er).
My technique is closest to @thorborg 's. I don't decap pistol cases, and depending on the loading of my 223 (plinking = no, match = yes).
Even when I used walnut or cobb or cat litter, I'd always get a chunk or two left in the brass primer flash hole no matter how many times I tumble/separated.
  1. Use Frankford Aresnal wet tumbler. I can fit approximately 2K 9m / 1K 45 / 1.5K 40S&W / ~800 223, etc. I don't mix 9 with 45 with 40, or they get stuck inside each other. Bottle neck rifle cases, I mix them all together. The Meguiars leaves the wax film, where I find the cases will not tarnish over time, and will respond to case lube easier for resizing.
  2. Dump all the cases in (deprimed as necessary). Fill with water to the shoulder (temperature doesn't make a rat's azz difference). Add 1 Cup Meguiars wash/wax / 2-4 tbsp lemon juice ($1 at Dollar Tree). Too little Meguiars, it doesn't wash well. Too much lemon juice, and the brass doesn't get as shiny. I used to use Dawn. Don't any more.
  3. The only difference between tumbling 1/2 hour or 1 hour is the primer pockets get just a little cleaner. Either way, it's way better than any media tumble. I go for 1 hour for simplicity.
  4. When done tumbling, uncork it, and using the faucet, run water for ~5 minutes into the tumbling drum until the water runs clear (mostly). Then dump out the remaining water, careful not to spill out any brass or pins into the sink. Dump the drum contents into a 5 gallon bucket half full with tepid or warm water.
  5. There will be pins in the drum, open both ends, empty the pins out and let the drum dry. It will stink if you don't.
  6. Don't do any of the wet separation process using metal containers -- unless the container is aluminum or 300 stainless, it makes magnets useless.
  7. Use the harbor freight waterproof magnet in the bucket, pull out as many pins as possible. You'll get a case or two, which is no big deal. I put the pins into a turkey roaster pan to dry in the oven, or else they will rust. The advantage of doing this, you may also find metal cases now and then - I've come across dozens of brass plated, steel cased mil-surp.
  8. Since I'm going to inspect all my cases, (and I do every time), here is where I will reach in, grab a handful (or 1 at a time) and make sure the mouth is facing downward as I pull them out. Under water, surface tension has no effect, and the pins fall out with gravity.
  9. Inspect the ones in my hand, dump them into a towel, then grab the four corners and swirl the cases in the towel. This gets them 95% dry.
  10. Repeat 7-9 as needed.
  11. Leave them in the sun for 2 hours on a hot summer day, or put them in the oven at 185 for that long, and they are dry.
Following the above, never had a damp case or found any pin in reloading. My only worry about a pin being in my case during firing would be potential damage to the rifling.
upload_2017-11-25_13-40-6.png
 
Last Edited:
Looking sharp, nice with both!



I'd recommend a small batch on that, just in case you do not like how they come out.

If you don't, no worries, as a re-tumble with dawn and lemishine (or I'd assume that Frankford solution) will clean the wax off.
I agree completely.
 
Only read pages 1 & 2 (lazy mf'er).
My technique is closest to @thorborg 's. I don't decap pistol cases, and depending on the loading of my 223 (plinking = no, match = yes).
Even when I used walnut or cobb or cat litter, I'd always get a chunk or two left in the brass primer flash hole no matter how many times I tumble/separated.
  1. Use Frankford Aresnal wet tumbler. I can fit approximately 2K 9m / 1K 45 / 1.5K 40S&W / ~800 223, etc. I don't mix 9 with 45 with 40, or they get stuck inside each other. Bottle neck rifle cases, I mix them all together. The Meguiars leaves the wax film, where I find the cases will not tarnish over time, and will respond to case lube easier for resizing.
  2. Dump all the cases in (deprimed as necessary). Fill with water to the shoulder (temperature doesn't make a rat's azz difference). Add 1 Cup Meguiars wash/wax / 2-4 tbsp lemon juice ($1 at Dollar Tree). Too little Meguiars, it doesn't wash well. Too much lemon juice, and the brass doesn't get as shiny. I used to use Dawn. Don't any more.
  3. The only difference between tumbling 1/2 hour or 1 hour is the primer pockets get just a little cleaner. Either way, it's way better than any media tumble. I go for 1 hour for simplicity.
  4. When done tumbling, uncork it, and using the faucet, run water for ~5 minutes into the tumbling drum until the water runs clear (mostly). Then dump out the remaining water, careful not to spill out any brass or pins into the sink. Dump the drum contents into a 5 gallon bucket half full with tepid or warm water.
  5. There will be pins in the drum, open both ends, empty the pins out and let the drum dry. It will stink if you don't.
  6. Don't do any of the wet separation process using metal containers -- unless the container is aluminum or 300 stainless, it makes magnets useless.
  7. Use the harbor freight waterproof magnet in the bucket, pull out as many pins as possible. You'll get a case or two, which is no big deal. I put the pins into a turkey roaster pan to dry in the oven, or else they will rust. The advantage of doing this, you may also find metal cases now and then - I've come across dozens of brass plated, steel cased mil-surp.
  8. Since I'm going to inspect all my cases, (and I do every time), here is where I will reach in, grab a handful (or 1 at a time) and make sure the mouth is facing downward as I pull them out. Under water, surface tension has no effect, and the pins fall out with gravity.
  9. Inspect the ones in my hand, dump them into a towel, then grab the four corners and swirl the cases in the towel. This gets them 95% dry.
  10. Repeat 7-9 as needed.
  11. Leave them in the sun for 2 hours on a hot summer day, or put them in the oven at 185 for that long, and they are dry.
Following the above, never had a damp case or found any pin in reloading. My only worry about a pin being in my case during firing would be potential damage to the rifling.
View attachment 408061
Thanks for the detailed write up! I'll definitely look into that car wax addition!
 
Thanks for the detailed write up! I'll definitely look into that car wax addition!
If you store your prepped brass over extended periods like I do you might find that the cleaning solutions like FA or Hornady sonic solution or a homemade lemishine solution clean the brass squeaky but do not protect it from tarnish. In my case I am far enough ahead that I run that clean brass through a 30 min-1 hour dry polishing in my vibratory tumbler with clean cob and some cabela's polish or some nu finish, McGuire's etc. It stores without tarnish over time that way and runs through my carbide pistol dies easier that way. You can eliminate the polish step by adding one of the liquid car wax products listed above to the FA rotary. Experiment until you get the results you desire. I like it clean and schlick it's easy on dies and less cleanup and migrating toxic dust.
 
If you store your prepped brass over extended periods like I do you might find that the cleaning solutions like FA or Hornady sonic solution or a homemade lemishine solution clean the brass squeaky but do not protect it from tarnish. In my case I am far enough ahead that I run that clean brass through a 30 min-1 hour dry polishing in my vibratory tumbler with clean cob and some cabela's polish or some nu finish, McGuire's etc. It stores without tarnish over time that way and runs through my carbide pistol dies easier that way. You can eliminate the polish step by adding one of the liquid car wax products listed above to the FA rotary. Experiment until you get the results you desire. I like it clean and schlick it's easy on dies and less cleanup and migrating toxic dust.
I also add car wash & wax solution to the wet tumbler for 9mm. Saves the step of lubing the cases and the cases don't oxidize if stored for long periods of time. Use lukewarm water for the rinse as hot water can wash away the wax protection.

About adding more soap - If you have tons of suds left when you're done tumbling, you're wasting soap. Some suds are fine, but if it's too much, you're leaving soap scum on the cases. I also tumble just the pins with a little soap and lemi-shine after about 10 batches or so, or when they feel greasy.
 
If you store your prepped brass over extended periods like I do you might find that the cleaning solutions like FA or Hornady sonic solution or a homemade lemishine solution clean the brass squeaky but do not protect it from tarnish. In my case I am far enough ahead that I run that clean brass through a 30 min-1 hour dry polishing in my vibratory tumbler with clean cob and some cabela's polish or some nu finish, McGuire's etc. It stores without tarnish over time that way and runs through my carbide pistol dies easier that way. You can eliminate the polish step by adding one of the liquid car wax products listed above to the FA rotary. Experiment until you get the results you desire. I like it clean and schlick it's easy on dies and less cleanup and migrating toxic dust.
Great thank you!
 
I also add car wash & wax solution to the wet tumbler for 9mm. Saves the step of lubing the cases and the cases don't oxidize if stored for long periods of time. Use lukewarm water for the rinse as hot water can wash away the wax protection.

About adding more soap - If you have tons of suds left when you're done tumbling, you're wasting soap. Some suds are fine, but if it's too much, you're leaving soap scum on the cases. I also tumble just the pins with a little soap and lemi-shine after about 10 batches or so, or when they feel greasy.
Appreciate the information!
 

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