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I love Nu-Finish in the dry tumbler. It's like a miracle additive for walnut shell media. It doesn't do so well in the wet tumbler though, at least it didn't for me. I actually don't use the wash and wax in the wet tumbler either, just as a final rinse.

I have a couple dry tumblers that I never use anymore, probably should sell them. One is a Midway 1288 that I've had for nearly 30 years. I just can't seem to bring myself to sell something I've had that long.

You bet,
I do not like all the clean up time from wet tumbling, and Nu-Finish does not require buffing after either. I always prep all brass before tumbling, so it is all ready for re-loading after. I just check the primer holes and make sure they are clear. I can store these for 3-4 months, and they are always bright brass color without any residue. I always bottle brush the cartridge before tumbling to ensure the great fit for bullets. No steel pellets to worry about.

Hope this helps.... Larry 243
 
I was mistaken! I got home and checked, it's not Turtle Wax that I have been using; it's "Armor-All Ultra Shine Wash & Wax".

I think I started with some Turtle Wax that I had for the car, but what I've been using that has worked well has been this Armor All stuff. I suspect that most any wash & wax would work fine, though. I think it's the carnauba wax that does it.
 
I always prep all brass before tumbling,
Yep - this is the key when liquid tumbling - it eliminates all the case prep issues many have mentioned dealing with while prepping cases AFTER tumbling. Heck ya gotta de prime before tumbling (for liquid tumbling to be effective) so why not get it all done beforehand?
 
I was mistaken! I got home and checked, it's not Turtle Wax that I have been using; it's "Armor-All Ultra Shine Wash & Wax".

I think I started with some Turtle Wax that I had for the car, but what I've been using that has worked well has been this Armor All stuff. I suspect that most any wash & wax would work fine, though. I think it's the carnauba wax that does it.

N0 Problem...
Nu-Finish is not a car wax, but a polish. It is a once a year application product that last and last for up to a year. It has no wax but a special polymer that seals surfaces. I believe that the sealing gent in it is what the secret is.... It sure works for me. You do not even need to wipe the surface off after tumbling.
Hope this info helps a bit !
Larry243
 
how do you guys make sure ALL of the pins are separated from the brass?

Awhile back I tumbled about 900 .223 cases and rinsed over and over, but STILL wound up having some pins in the mix.

Any tips or tricks to removing ALL of them, or is it inevitable you'll have some left over. Last thing I want is to break a decapping pin, or heaven forbid, shoot one out the end of the barrel that got missed....

Thanks in advance!

I tumble about 50-60 decapped cases in the pins. I use a cat box scoop and a sieve to separate. I then drop them into a 1 gallon bucket, with enough distilled water to cover them, toss them a bunch, then scoop them into another 1 gallon bucket with distilled water to cover them. Then put them in a food dehydrator I got on CL for 10 bucks... no messing around. They're dry and look like jewelry. No water spots. I don't think it would be catastrophic if a pin found it's way into a case and got fired... that's my 2 cents...
 
Does wax on the inside of the cases ever cause issues with powder sticking to it?

No. It's not enough to have anything stick to it. It's more of a glaze/protectant than anything, it also helps the water bead off when drying.

I probably ran these 9mm a year ago.

iPhone dulled the image, it was too bright and it auto corrected the brightness.
IMG_4406.JPG
 

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