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I'm new to reloading. I got into it to reload .303 British, however, after my first and seccond attempts to deprime this (Wolf?) case, with a Lee collet and then a decapper die, the primer has won and defeated both pins. So, do you have any recommended model of replacement pins, and any advice about reloading these cases? I'm using a Lee hand press, and installing the dies as instructed on the paper that came with them.

broke_pins.jpg
 
As Mark alludes to above, do a Google-Fu search on Boxer vs. Berdan primers. Likely you have Berdan. If you can confirm they are Boxer, respond back and I'll find the link to a decapping die that has pretty much an almost unbreakable decapping pin (or at least super-duper rated).
 
I'm new to reloading. I got into it to reload .303 British, however, after my first and seccond attempts to deprime this (Wolf?) case, with a Lee collet and then a decapper die, the primer has won and defeated both pins. So, do you have any recommended model of replacement pins, and any advice about reloading these cases? I'm using a Lee hand press, and installing the dies as instructed on the paper that came with them.

View attachment 1318553
Yep Looking at the pictured brass, wrong brass. Take a small flashlight and look in the shell, if there is two holes then you need different brass.

EDIT: Wolf gold = Berdan prime
Wolf military classic = Boxer prime.
 
Last Edited:
Ah
First. Check if the brass is Berdan or Boxer primered.

NO, No, no.......
View attachment 1318665

Like this......
https://www.ammunitiontogo.com/lodge/boxer-vs-berdan-primers/

Aloha, Mark
As Mark alludes to above, do a Google-Fu search on Boxer vs. Berdan primers. Likely you have Berdan. If you can confirm they are Boxer, respond back and I'll find the link to a decapping die that has pretty much an almost unbreakable decapping pin (or at least super-duper rated).
Yep Looking at the pictured brass, wrong brass. Take a small flashlight and look in the shell, if there is two holes then you need different brass.
Ah, I see. They are berdan primed. Good thing that they were the cheapest cartridges that I bought, so not as much of a loss.
 
If it's a boxer primer. Try this tool.

1669411616034.png

The pin is supposed to be "unbreakable". But yeah......I've managed to break several and have them replaced. Just send the broken ones back to LEE. BUT, But, but......that is a PIA. Yup......so then.......buy some replacement rods.

You could also try the "LEE universal decapper". But, you really need to crank down on the holding nut. Otherwise, the decap rod will slip and you're back to square one.

As for the Berdan primed brass..........YES, it's still reloadable though finding the correct primer is a big PIA. Not to mention just removing the old Berdan primer. IMHO........don't waste your time with the Berdan brass. Just go and buy (or find) some good Boxer brass.

Aloha, Mark

PS.......that LEE tool in the picture is for the smaller-sized cases (.223 Rem). There is another one for larger cases (like the .308W or .30-06).

In my experience......WOLF is normally steel cased. I don't bother with them, as they are usually Berdan-primed. For me......they usually go straight into the trash.
 
Last Edited:
Squirrel Daddy hardened pins. 3 for $18 shipped.
+1
Lee pins suck and seem to be softer than bread bag twist ties.
You can find other makers on Amazon and Ebay too.

Another lesson, with any primer, gently push it out. You'll get the feel for it, when it seats, if the pin has seated properly, and what is needed to push it out.
I've had pebbles stuck in boxer primed cases that I've discovered and removed before breaking a pin by using the above technique, slow - smooth - easy.
 
Next........
You will probably want to work on fixing/replacing the old "bent pin".

Some notes for you about that.
My actual pin measurements here are from one example each.

The Old Pins (without heads). Diameter measures......

Small = 0.0600"

Large = 0.0695"

The newer pins (with heads). Diameter measures.....

Only one offering (no large and small) = 0.0685"

As for Why the headed pins?

The lady at RCBS told me that they were getting complaints that the pins would frequently "pull out" when stuck in a primer hole. So, the engineers came up with the headed pin solution.

1669413447638.png

(left to right) small size straight pin, large size straight pin, headed pin. And, a .223 sizer button)

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
I'm new to reloading. I got into it to reload .303 British, however, after my first and seccond attempts to deprime this (Wolf?) case, with a Lee collet and then a decapper die, the primer has won and defeated both pins. So, do you have any recommended model of replacement pins, and any advice about reloading these cases? I'm using a Lee hand press, and installing the dies as instructed on the paper that came with them.

View attachment 1318553
You take good pictures Pilgrim! :D

Some good advice above. I would hope you could find a way to get a real press real soon. You'll be glad you did! Remembering from my beginning in Nov 2011. The "Feel" is a HUGE part of this hobby/habit.
 
On a side note, that case appears to be copper-washed steel, not brass. Look at the top of the rim in the picture. Is the copper not scraped off?? Reloading steel cases is a whole other discussion.
 
Squirrel Daddy hardened pins. 3 for $18 shipped.
+1
Lee pins suck and seem to be softer than bread bag twist ties.
You can find other makers on Amazon and Ebay too.

Another lesson, with any primer, gently push it out. You'll get the feel for it, when it seats, if the pin has seated properly, and what is needed to push it out.
I've had pebbles stuck in boxer primed cases that I've discovered and removed before breaking a pin by using the above technique, slow - smooth - easy.
Next........
You will probably want to work on fixing/replacing the old "bent pin".

Some notes for you about that.


View attachment 1318684

(left to right) small size straight pin, large size straight pin, headed pin. And, a .223 sizer button)

Aloha, Mark
You take good pictures Pilgrim! :D

Some good advice above. I would hope you could find a way to get a real press real soon. You'll be glad you did! Remembering from my beginning in Nov 2011. The "Feel" is a HUGE part of this hobby/habit.
Thanks for the intel guys, I'll pick up some of those pins. I don't expect to move off of this press for a while though, I haven't the space.
On a side note, that case appears to be copper-washed steel, not brass. Look at the top of the rim in the picture. Is the copper not scraped off?? Reloading steel cases is a whole other discussion.
I expect they are steel underneath, as they are advertised as "bi-metallic."
 
On a side note, that case appears to be copper-washed steel, not brass. Look at the top of the rim in the picture. Is the copper not scraped off?? Reloading steel cases is a whole other discussion.
Here in UK, where so much is really different, we bin steel cases straight into the bucket marked steel cases. Buy PPU ammunition - great brass - I'm getting 10 recycles from my 7.5x55 - analogous to .303 British.
 
A magnetic personality helps!
Why didn't I think to check that! The cases stick nicely to a magnet, so there's that solved.
Here in UK, where so much is really different, we bin steel cases straight into the bucket marked steel cases. Buy PPU ammunition - great brass - I'm getting 10 recycles from my 7.5x55 - analogous to .303 British.
That's good to hear, since the rest of my brass is PPU and Sellier & Bellot.
 

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