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I switched to wet tumbling some months back. Shortly after, I started reloading on my Dillon XL 650 more than I had been on my Hornady LNL AP. The LNL wasn't set up with the PTX die like the Dillon is.

As I started loading several hundred 38 special rounds, I noticed that the press was getting "sticky" on the up stroke of the handle. I started looking to see what was not lubed enough and didn't find anything that looked likely. A call to the friendly neighborhood Dillon tech center got me the answer. They asked how clean was my brass, and of course it's pretty much sparkly clean after being wet tumbled. Apparently that is the problem. Slightly dirty brass gives a bit of a lubrication to the PTX die and keeps the inside of the case mouth from galling and sticking to the die. Super clean (or new) brass becomes "sticky". Applying some dry lube to the PTX works for a dozen or so loads and then it starts sticking again. The Dillon tech suggested that some folks use a wax in their case processing and I know I have seen that bandied about here on the forum in dry tumbling. Is anyone using a lube or wax in their wet tumbling process? If so what kind, how much, etc?

Just when I thought I had this whole case prep thing all figured out :confused:
 
Haven't heard that.

That said, I still tumble my pistol brass in a vibratory tumbler.

Don't have an issue with the rifle brass because it's lubricated.
 
You might try polishing the PTX...worked for me.
...but I still dry tumble with NuFinish though.
Maybe add some of that car wash/wax to the water, as others do.
:D
 
I've been Reloading for about 50 years and this makes ZERO sense to me. Sounds like Dillion hasn't done the proper amount of polishing of some of their parts. I believe that the Cleaner the Brass the Better the final product.
 
I've been Reloading for about 50 years and this makes ZERO sense to me. Sounds like Dillion hasn't done the proper amount of polishing of some of their parts. I believe that the Cleaner the Brass the Better the final product.
About minus ten for me on the reloading time but I agree! My pin tumbled brass slicks through my carbide dies smoother than it ever did when I was dry tumbling.
 
This is a known issue with wet tumbling. I suggest that during the final rinse of your brass, you add a tablespoon or two of the following. It will coat it with a super thin coating of carnuba wax, and make reloading the cartridges much easer on you and your dies. There are several brands to choose from.
31A1938D-2881-452D-8578-36B051B2DFE1.jpeg
 
Thanks for the tip!

Ageingstudent gave me a tip also that running the cleaned cases with some of the same type stuff in a corncob media of the dry tumbler (I still have mine) for 15 or so minutes might achieve a similar result. I may have to take my dies apart and clean out any galled off brass in them as well :confused:.... I just was caught off guard by the whole idea needing some sort of lubrication on the brass... I guess in thinking about now, I shouldn't have been surprised, but....yeah... caught me off guard.
 
I am having the same issue with 9mm, so sticky I have to change my grip to get the case to release from the PTX... My research indicates two options for the problem 1 lube the case inside (the Lee sizing wax worked better than Hornady One Shot) or 2 take the PTX down .002 in diameter with an emery cloth chucked into a 1/2 drill or have a machinist do it (I am going the machinist route as I didnt buy a 650 to add more steps to reloading).
My PTX is large enough that it doesn't just flare it basically resizes the brass but runs like a champ when tooled for 45acp.
 
This is a known issue with wet tumbling. I suggest that during the final rinse of your brass, you add a tablespoon or two of the following. It will coat it with a super thin coating of carnuba wax, and make reloading the cartridges much easer on you and your dies. There are several brands to choose from.
View attachment 432071

This is exactly what I do and it works well. It dries hard and you can't even tell it's there; there's no waxy feel to the brass. It's just like waxing your car, it leaves a slick, hard finish. The other thing I've done is to not tumble them quite as long. They still get shiny on the outside but not as bright shiny inside. That seems to help.

I was frustrated when I first started wet tumbling and started having this issue on my Dillon 550. It took me a while to figure out, until I searched online and found that it's a common problem. The brass is just too clean and it galls on the expander. I even tried polishing my expander with 1200 grit sandpaper to no avail. A simple rinse in diluted wash-n-wax as the last step was the ticket.
 
I am Leary of putting wax into any of my cases that may store ammunition long term. Fear that it might somehow react with and degrade the powder or primer compound over the period of months or years. All my rifle rounds (to date) are loaded for precision using painstaking methods to ensure the utmost consistency, repeatability and accuracy.

Has anyone who shoots long range precision and used this method on Ammo stored long term?

I'd like to know for my own sake.
 
I am Leary of putting wax into any of my cases that may store ammunition long term. Fear that it might somehow react with and degrade the powder or primer compound over the period of months or years. All my rifle rounds (to date) are loaded for precision using painstaking methods to ensure the utmost consistency, repeatability and accuracy.

Has anyone who shoots long range precision and used this method on Ammo stored long term?

I'd like to know for my own sake.

That's why I use graphite if there is any chance it might get in the case.
 
Before wet tumbling, folks have been adding polish / wax to "dry" tumbling media since the dawn of time. Theses folks may be better to answer your question. I have personally never had a problem. I'm not sure you could get any less on the cases using any other method.
 
I am Leary of putting wax into any of my cases that may store ammunition long term. Fear that it might somehow react with and degrade the powder or primer compound over the period of months or years. All my rifle rounds (to date) are loaded for precision using painstaking methods to ensure the utmost consistency, repeatability and accuracy.

Has anyone who shoots long range precision and used this method on Ammo stored long term?

I'd like to know for my own sake.

I understand your concern. I can't answer your question completely but here's what I've got.

My most accurate rifle will shoot 1/2 moa on a good day (a good day for me because it's stretching my abilities). I've loaded and shot ammo for it using wet tumbled brass but not a lot, and not stored terribly long. I can say I haven't noticed any problems at all at this point. I really don't expect to either, because the wax in question is actually a microscopically thin, hard, dry coating that I'm pretty confident is totally inert.

I don't blame you for being skeptical though. It would stink to load a bunch of rounds and years later find out they went bad. I had exactly that happen some years back when I used some old surplus H4895 that went bad. For a couple years I was finding odd batches of ammo that I had loaded with it. They were easy to ID because they had cracked necks with nasty green streaks coming out.
 

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