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Being two years new to reloading the Frankford Arsenal ss pin tumbler is the only system I've used. And have always liked the results.
I know this to one of several methods available to clean brass. (Sonic, shell media…)

Question1
Knowing ss media is a relatively new cleaning method Is there a time tested preferred method I'm not aware of.
Question 2
What are pros and cons of each system?

My current process is once back from range a quick 45 minute clean in tumbler with hot water and dish detergent. Pull, dry, deprime, size then back in tumbler for final 45 minute tumble using hot water, dish soap and cream of tartar.
 
I use an old rock tumbler with a mixture of minute rice, oatmeal, and dried rubbing compound. It works really well, brass comes out shiny and slick. the only downside is sometimes the rice gets stuck in the primer holes, a shot of compressed air fixes that.
 
LemiShine is now a complete product line. The old product was a rinse agent that reduced spots on dishes. Any rinse agent will do. They are essentially water softening chemicals that let the detergent work better and "make the water wetter" for lack of better terms. The harder your water, the more important it becomes if you want better looking brass.

I use Armorall Wash & Wax instead of Dawn. For 9mm, it works as a case lube and prevents the bras from tarnishing later on. For rifle brass, I use case lube for sizing and then rewash with the Armorall. Any brand of wash & wax product should do the job. I use about a cap full in the tumbler.
 
I got my Lemi Shine a long time ago at Wally World. But due to "supply chain" problems.......well as with any store, it could be "hit or miss" now a days.

Aloha, Mark

PS.....as for a method. Well, over the years I've tried many. And note that.......the brass doesn't have to glint in the sun to be "clean enough". That being said......I've tried.....

Hot soap and water.
Cheap enough but not really as shiny as I'd like.

Chemical cleaners (such as : Birchwood Casey Brass Cleaner Solution).
Shiny brass but, sometimes difficult to find and after awhile the price adds up.

An Ultra Sonic Cleaner with and without the special cleaning solution.
The solution can be expense. And for me, the results were not really shiny for the time that I'd spend. I always worried that I'd burn out the machine. And, limited capacity of the tank.

Vibaratory walnut/shaker. Dusty, noisy and just too long of a run time for my liking.

My current set up is with a Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler. Big enough tank capacity, cheap cleaning dish soap soulution and a bit of Lemi Shine. Replacement pins can be found on Amazon. Yes, it's also noisy. But being lazy, I just set the timer and forgetaboutit (in the garage). It's my favorite method thus far.

Anyway......everyone is free to choose whatever method works for them.
 
Last Edited:
Stick with the wet tumbler with the stainless steel pins.
Along with a couple drops of Dawn and a shot of lemon juice !

Cheap additives and the brass comes out 'blindingly ' well!

IMG_2276.JPG
 
Ultrasonic works, it's fast and effective as long as you're not looking for bright, shiny brass. Great for small loads.

@Goodknight , you started at the conclusion of most reloader's "cleaning brass" rabbit hole. Now you're asking what are the methods you passed up.... LOL
I used to have three vibratory cleaners, sold or gave them away. I don't miss the dust and noise.
Still have the ultrasonic because it's great for one-offs and cleaning gun parts.
I have the same tumbler as you, as well as a HF rock polisher tumbler, which I will use for very small batches, like four hundred pieces of 9mm Kurz brass.
If I have a complaint about wet tumbling with SS pins, it's the drying part. That's very minor compared to the results.
I'll deprime before tumbling (excluding semi-auto pistol rounds) and only tumble the brass once per reloading cycle.
 
I have been buying Lemishine Booster at our local Wal-Mart in the dish soap section but they haven't restocked it here lately so when I need it again I'll order it from Amazon.
I run almost full tubs of brass. I use hot tap water (city water).
A half teaspoon of Lemishine Booster
A cap full of ArmorAll Wash n Wax
And a small squirt of Dawn Dish Soap

You need enough Dawn to suspend the carbon and other dirty materials that comes off of your brass.

I set the timer for one hour.
Then drain the dirty black water.
Then fill the drum up a few times and drain until the water comes out clean.

Then I'll fill the drum back up with hot tap water and add a cap of are Wash n Wax and set the timer for fifteen minutes.

I'll Then drain the tub and hang the brass on my drying racks to dry.
I like to deprime before tumbling. The primer pockets come out super clean and the brass will dry faster. I hit the brass with the air hose to get the excess water off and any pins that may of been stuck inside of the cases from water retention.
With my drying racks I get a accurate count on the brass, I get to visually inspect each case and the brass gets 100 percent dry.

I personally know several people who wet tumble that has loaded ammo with either wet or damp cases and had either squids or fail to fire rounds.
THE BRASS HAS TO BE 1000% DRY.

20210108_174330.jpg 20211003_133812.jpg
 
I've been thinking of getting a wet tumbler as well. With rifle brass I deprime run through ultra sonic then size and another quick bath to get lube off. Can you run newly sized brass in the tumbler or will you mess up the rim/neck area?
 
Being two years new to reloading the Frankford Arsenal ss pin tumbler is the only system I've used. And have always liked the results.
I know this to one of several methods available to clean brass. (Sonic, shell media…)

Question1
Knowing ss media is a relatively new cleaning method Is there a time tested preferred method I'm not aware of.
Question 2
What are pros and cons of each system?

My current process is once back from range a quick 45 minute clean in tumbler with hot water and dish detergent. Pull, dry, deprime, size then back in tumbler for final 45 minute tumble using hot water, dish soap and cream of tartar.
I use both the vibratory / walnut shell method and ss pin wet tumbler.

What I don't like about the walnut shell cleaning is the dust, and the inside of the case is never clean. But it has it's place. I also find that "Lizard Litter" crushed walnut shell from Pet Smart, flash holes stay free of media. Much smaller grind.

The wet tumbler get's cases clean inside and out. I use Simple Green and Rain Jet rinse as cleaning agents. What I don't care for with ss pins is they stick to the wet cases inside. I find it easier to toss those wet cases in the walnut media for drying and a final polish. The feral pins leave with the walnut media in the separator.

All cases get decapped with a Lee decapping die before they get cleaned. That is done when I get back from the range, and I don't clean until I have several hundred cases to clean. I might clean cases every couple of months.
 
I am thinking of getting a wet tumbler too. I have concern about getting a SS pins stuck to the bottle
neck cases? Can you clean effectively without the SS pins? How do you make sure no SS pins are
left in the cases?
 

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