Storing handguns - gun sock question

Does anyone know anything about these silicone dosed cloth socks for gun storage.
Either Gun Sock or Sock Ups are the 2 brands I have seen?
I have bought a few to use for my handguns and rifles and am wondering if anyone has any first hand experience with them.
The makers claim that they protect your firearm from moisture (and rust), but I just pulled out my Anaconda from the safe and swear it was "sweating". Glad the revolver is stainless, but I also have a Nickel Python and now I am really worried if these things are helping or hurting.
I've also stock a couple of old rifles into these things and would hate to find out that instead of saving them from rust I've actually created an environment that encourages it.
 
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+1 and get a golden rod in your safe.
I bought one a last weekend or the one before, but need to wire it into the safe. The entry hole is I believe 1/4" thread, so it will be a custom wire job. I wish it was something that I could just drop it and plug in. ... but it is not.
(safe is in the basement and I do have a dehumidifier running 24/7)
 
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I have them for my small collection that sits in a even smaller cheap-o safe. I have a goldenrod in the safe and the socks I left on because they are great at preventing the guns from getting any handling/shuffling wear while they are in the safe. Of course if I had a nice big safe, I would probably take them off.
 
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I use Allen gun socks on all of my handguns & really like them. They are much cheaper & take up less space than soft or hard cases, plus they keep your handguns safe from bumps & nicks. I also keep plenty of desiccant in my gun safes to control humidty.
 
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I bought one a last weekend or the one before, but need to wire it into the safe. The entry hole is I believe 1/4" thread, so it will be a custom wire job. I wish it was something that I could just drop it and plug in. ... but it is not.
(safe is in the basement and I do have a dehumidifier running 24/7)
It isn't too tough, take 5 minutes if you have a drill & a drill bit. I have goldenrod in three of my safes & 2 of them in the largest. Just drill a hole in the side or the back of the safe, the plug is made to come off the wire, and I wrapped the part near the hole w/ black tape cause I didn't feel like de-burring it.
 
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I use Allen gun socks on all of my handguns & really like them. They are much cheaper & take up less space than soft or hard cases, plus they keep your handguns safe from bumps & nicks. I also keep plenty of desiccant in my gun safes to control humidty.
I couldn't trust the dessicant, seemed like I was having to re-dry it every couple of weeks in the toaster oven. I was always I'd forget to dry it one time & my guns would get rusty
 
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It isn't too tough, take 5 minutes if you have a drill & a drill bit. I have goldenrod in three of my safes & 2 of them in the largest. Just drill a hole in the side or the back of the safe, the plug is made to come off the wire, and I wrapped the part near the hole w/ black tape cause I didn't feel like de-burring it.
If you can drill into your safe that easily, I would suggest getting another safe.
 
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I have the goldenrod in my safe, and works pretty well but I have a rifle that I swear will start to rust if you look at it cross-eyed... even with the golden rod. I got a winchester gun sock from wally world and the combination of the goldenrod and sock have worked like a charm. Yes all of my firearms are cleaned and wiped down with oil before they were put in the safe, even before the goldenrod and sock.
 
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If you can drill into your safe that easily, I would suggest getting another safe.
Spoken like someone who has never drilled a hole through mild steel, or even through two pieces of sheet metal with a concrete-like substance sandwiched in between. I have worked as a Locksmith since I was a kid, safe opening is one of my challenges. Drill your holes away from the front door and you will be allright, unless you find a TRTL sticker on your safe...
 
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Spoken like someone who has never drilled a hole through mild steel, or even through two pieces of sheet metal with a concrete-like substance sandwiched in between. I have worked as a Locksmith since I was a kid, safe opening is one of my challenges. Drill your holes away from the front door and you will be allright, unless you find a TRTL sticker on your safe...

No, just that most safes that you see out there are nicely painted junk. Especially those made in China.
Take a look at this safe and compare it to the Browning or whatever else is on the retailers display and tell me if my statements are off the mark:
Gun Safes : Fire Safe Manufacturer : Sturdy Gun Safe
 
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No, just that most safes that you see out there are nicely painted junk. Especially those made in China.
Take a look at this safe and compare it to the Browning or whatever else is on the retailers display and tell me if my statements are off the mark:
Gun Safes : Fire Safe Manufacturer : Sturdy Gun Safe
Unfortunately if you look at different safes you will find basically the same construction in the sides & back of them all. B rated have a 1/4" thick steel body with a 1/2" steel door. C rated are 1/2" steel body & 1" steel door. Fire rated safes have different thickness walls, but most are two pieces of sheet metal w/ a filler in between, generally wallboard or a cement-like filler. Either way you go, if you keep away from the door you will find easy drilling, go slow & don't push hard- you don't want a broken drill bit. As long as your safe is not a TRTL (barrier materials in walls/back & door) you will be fine. You can always start on the inside with a small drill bit (like a 1/8") until you are sure you can get all the way through the other side (outer skin) easy to open a small hole larger...The thing all safes have in common is they are a box, with a more or less expensive front door, depending on the door to mesmerize the common crook into thinking it cannot be opened. The more expensive safes also have a more intricate bolt-work, that part is designed to mesmerize You, the consumer into believing that it is more difficult to open than the other guy's safe. The things that make opening a safe harder include:Glass Relocker (piece of glass between the lock & the door)when the glass breaks (presumable from a drill bit) it releases spring loaded relockers that jam up the boltwork, now you have to drill a couple more holes in the door to release the relockers-Not impossible, just consumes more time. A good safe is really just a time wasting device for a good crook.
 
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No, just that most safes that you see out there are nicely painted junk. Especially those made in China.
Take a look at this safe and compare it to the Browning or whatever else is on the retailers display and tell me if my statements are off the mark:
Gun Safes : Fire Safe Manufacturer : Sturdy Gun Safe
Even the Chinese safes are made out of steel, maybe thinner but steel and a crappier copy of the same lock (if a combo lock)
I allow the same amount of time on my schedule to open a China safe as a made in USA Amsec, Browning, Winchester ect...
 
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Even the Chinese safes are made out of steel, maybe thinner but steel and a crappier copy of the same lock (if a combo lock)
I allow the same amount of time on my schedule to open a China safe as a made in USA Amsec, Browning, Winchester ect...
From what I read, the issue with Chinese safes is not the thickness but the quality of steel.
I do know that the main purpose of the safe is to make it as difficult as possible for the would be thief to get to your stuff.
Still I find that most of these safes that we see in stores are really glorified lockers and provide their owners a false sense of security.
I actually know people who keep their junk in the safe and hide the good stuff.
 
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In my area only very rarely does a thief do much with your safe other than steal it if is light enough for them. Most criminals don't know the difference between a cheap or expensive safe, but they do know if they can drag it off into the desert & cut, bash or pry it open with unlimited time to mess around. They do seem to like to return to the scene after you replace all the stuff they last took & re-take the new stuff too.
 

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