Revolver jammed with a live round

[WAYNO]

Just ran the cleaning rod down the barrel and measured, it's a squib.

Kind've why we don't like to give patient advice over the internet. The patient doesn't listen.

Aren't you glad you didn't try a bigger hammer?

 

[turq]

I had my 44 special jam when shooting the CCI shot shells.
I had five loaded to test them, first shot dislodged two caps locked.
I just tilted the gun towards the ground and one shot capsul fell out,I then pushed the other capsul back in; opened the gun emptied the remaining.
I then tugged on the shot capsules with my fingers and they came out, as well as all I tried in that pack.
I bought five packs ; the next box I opened did the same.
Sent back to CCI; got five new of diff. Lot number, I pulled several of those apart and haven't picked them up since.
Don't shoot them as self defense loads or multiples in a cyl. My opinion

 

[Certaindeaf]

Kind've why we don't like to give patient advice over the internet. The patient doesn't listen.

Aren't you glad you didn't try a bigger hammer?

"Instructions not clear, sewed my balls to my leg".

 

[boron]

Had there been full ignition the forces would have been enough to reseat the primer in the pocket and to iron out the indentation. As it was, the whole case acted more like a projectile, leaving the primer proud of the primer pocket.

At the moment, I'm more concerned with the possible causes (and prevention) than the "how to remove/correct" the situation.
Assuming a "normal", properly seated primer in a primer pocket of proper dimensions, when the primer is contacted with sufficient force by the pin, the material within the primer should expand quickly enough with sufficient force to "re-"seat itself.
1. was the primer pocket too enlarged to properly hold the primer in place?
2. was the primer hole blocked or of insufficient diameter to allow the primer gases to enter the cartridge?
3. was the powder charge too large, too small? did the gases within the cartridge not develop sufficient force?
4. was the primer defective? which manufacturer? could it possibly been damp or oily?
I've been rolling my own since 1966 (a few thousand rounds) and have never (yet- there's still time) encountered this situation.

 

[Member 24198]

At the moment, I'm more concerned with the possible causes (and prevention) than the "how to remove/correct" the situation.
Assuming a "normal", properly seated primer in a primer pocket of proper dimensions, when the primer is contacted with sufficient force by the pin, the material within the primer should expand quickly enough with sufficient force to "re-"seat itself.
1. was the primer pocket too enlarged to properly hold the primer in place?
2. was the primer hole blocked or of insufficient diameter to allow the primer gases to enter the cartridge?
3. was the powder charge too large, too small? did the gases within the cartridge not develop sufficient force?
4. was the primer defective? which manufacturer? could it possibly been damp or oily?
I've been rolling my own since 1966 (a few thousand rounds) and have never (yet- there's still time) encountered this situation.

Put a brand new primer in a clean/new piece of brass. Do not add powder or a bullet. Fire the primer only out of a gun in a safe direction/location. Do not mix live rounds while doing this.

 

[jjfitch]

Well, if the primer went off and there was no powder charge, then you probably have the projectile stuck in the forcing cone, you will need to drive that back into the case before you can open the cylinder. Are you going to shoot his reloads again?

This!

 

[mignuc]

First, go old school. Pull the bullet with a black powder-type bullet puller. They are put down the barrel and screw into the bullet. Then you pull the bullet out of the case. After you've pulled the bullet you can (relatively) safely do pretty much whatever you want to do to get the action open. Because you must assume that you still have a live primer, wear a face shield and gloves, the thinner the better so that you can feel what you're doing, yet your hands are protected. A long-sleeve shirt would also be in order. You shouldn't have any problem finding a bullet puller for .44 caliber. If that doesn't fit into the barrel, you can get a .40 caliber one and that will fit. A large local gun store may even have them in stock. If not, you can certainly order one from Dixie Gun Works.

 

[ron]

Good way to avoid squibs is just a basic reloading setup, sure it won't crank loaded rounds out as fast but Imo the peace of mind is worth a slower reloading setup.
One of those Lee handpreses is just fine by me, I'd rather take my time and ensure quality than find out at the range.

Started reloading 38/357 in 1978 on a RCBS single stage. Last 30 years I have used a Dillon 550
progressive. I have never had a squib load. Les likely to double charge and no charge a case with
a progressive. IMHO

 

[Member 24198]

Started reloading 38/357 in 1978 on a RCBS single stage. Last 30 years I have used a Dillon 550
progressive. I have never had a squib load. Les likely to double charge and no charge a case with
a progressive. IMHO

It's been a few years since I've reloaded, and I was rocking a Lee Turret. Too much talking with my buddy.