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Can you soak the entire gun or at least the primer in something that will deactivate the primer or contaminate the powder to prevent a discharge? Soak it in some penetrating oil maybe?

First concern is to prevent the round from firing.

Then address how to open the cylinder. Do it all at the range pointed in safe direction.

All clear and cleaned!
 
If one got no charge, and you are using a meter, there is a good chance there is another one that has a double charge

This ^^ happened to me early on when I stated reloading. Maybe a year in after 1200-1500 rounds, using a single stage. Powder drop from a RCBS Uniflow. I was loading .38 special with 231 shooting in a 4" M66 S&W. I knew something wasn't right immediately. My squib went just far enough into the forcing cone so as not to keep the cylinder from locking. Next box of .38 sp is where the double charge was. I keep that double charged piece of .38sp brass on my loading table in plain sight. Kind of like the plastic Jesus on the dashboard of your car.
 
Saw you trying it out at the range

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Had my first squib just a few years ago - and this was after 30+ years of reloading!
Had a bullet stick in the barrel of a Mod 605 Taurus. No cylinder jam as it cleared the forcing cone so a simple tap out took care of it.
I suspected a light charge on that round.
 
Had my first squib just a few years ago - and this was after 30+ years of reloading!
Had a bullet stick in the barrel of a Mod 605 Taurus. No cylinder jam as it cleared the forcing cone so a simple tap out took care of it.
I suspected a light charge on that round.
I was reloading while talking to my buddy. Going to have to keep the chit chat down.
 
Last Edited:
"But they can double and simulate FA! My 500 did :eek:"

Yes indeed. That can happen. I was present at a suicide in which the departee shot himself in the head with a .44 Mag and fired 2 rounds. :eek::eek:
 
When dealing with squibs locking a revolver up I use a coping saw to slowly saw through the bullet between the cylinder and forcing cone. You can then open it up and work on tapping the squib out without fear of a discharge.
 
When dealing with squibs locking a revolver up I use a coping saw to slowly saw through the bullet between the cylinder and forcing cone. You can then open it up and work on tapping the squib out without fear of a discharge.
First I heard a that. Doesn't sound like a real good idea.
 
Good way to avoid squibs is just a basic reloading setup, sure it won't crank loaded rounds out as fast but Imo the peace of mind is worth a slower reloading setup.
One of those Lee handpreses is just fine by me, I'd rather take my time and ensure quality than find out at the range.
 
I was shooting some cop reloads in my SW 60, many years ago.
A hot round stretched one hole in the cylinder so bad, that it wouldn't rotate.
I had to have the cylinder replaced.
Cute stretch marks on the cylinder.
 
Yes, you would. But you'd be able to open the cylinder without trying to beat it open, and eliminate the risk of deforming the bullet attempting to force the bullet back into case/chamber and jamming things tighter. Cylinder gaps are most always wide enough to accept a coping blade and the thin blade will typically break or release from the frame when too much pressure is applied since the blade is really made for use on wood. I was only trying to help the OP with the action a pro gunsmith would take to resolve the issue. It's a lot cheaper than beating the cylinder open and then repairing that damage.
 
Dumb Question #1:
Why did the primer mushroom?
Had there been full ignition the forces would have been enough to reseat the primer in the pocket and to iron out the indentation. As it was, the whole case acted more like a projectile, leaving the primer proud of the primer pocket.
 
Mine made it a little bit further down the pipe
HalfWayOutHalfed.jpg
I couldn't tell if there was a double charge among the rest of the batch.
I'm just glad it's a sturdily built revolver.
 
I find myself in an interesting situation. I was shooting my Model 29 with hand loads today, and the firing pin hit the primer, but no ignition. The primer is mushroomed and won't allow the cylinder to rotate or eject. I was lightly using a plastic mallet to hit the cylinder, but that thing is stuck solid. Any idea how to get the cylinder open?

The modern hearing protection being used by a person that is some what hearing impaired AKA( OLD) can make it hard to hear a squib or hang fire . I've had a couple that I did not hear a noticeable difference especially using magnum primers.. My squib that locked the cylinder was a great learning experience. 3 of us looked at it and did not know the problem untill in-depth inspection at home.shinning a small, tacticool flashlight in between the cyl.&barrel in the field can possibly spot it .If it would have cleared the forcing cone and the trigger was pulled again it could be a very bad situation. I listen closer and take my time now .
 
The modern hearing protection being used by a person that is some what hearing impaired AKA( OLD) can make it hard to hear a squib or hang fire . I've had a couple that I did not hear a noticeable difference especially using magnum primers.. My squib that locked the cylinder was a great learning experience. 3 of us looked at it and did not know the problem untill in-depth inspection at home.shinning a small, tacticool flashlight in between the cyl.&barrel in the field can possibly spot it .If it would have cleared the forcing cone and the trigger was pulled again it could be a very bad situation. I listen closer and take my time now .
I had electronic muffs on.
 
I was shooting some cop reloads in my SW 60, many years ago.
A hot round stretched one hole in the cylinder so bad, that it wouldn't rotate.
When his department changed to 9mm from 38 Special way back when, my brother in law gave me 60 rounds of cop reloads. I don't know who loaded them, but I could easily teach my 9 yr old grandson to make rounds that are more consistent! Pop, boom, BANG, boom, boom, pop, BANG! I'm surprised anyone could qualify with that stuff.
 

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