Reloading bench pics

Mark W.

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What is the Deadbolt looking lock on your door? I also have a secure room and I'm about to completely redo the door so I been interested in what types of locks are available. one component of the new door will be stealth and that lock looks very easy to hide.
 
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Some nice setups here. I finally got my T7 and Rockchucker mounted. Still need to find a place for a Dillon 550, RCBS Ammomaster, and three MEC 600 Jr. presses. I'd also like to pick up a Dillon 650 at some point.
 
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Heres my bench. rcbs single stage and a lee pro 1000 in 45acp. loading 380 auto, .223rem and 45acp. I know guys gripe about the Lee's but i just didnt have an extra $300 for a blue paint job! LOL! And i guess im one of the lucky ones cause mine runs great!


phone 5-30-2011 130.jpg
 
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What is the Deadbolt looking lock on your door? I also have a secure room and I'm about to completely redo the door so I been interested in what types of locks are available. one component of the new door will be stealth and that lock looks very easy to hide.
And unlike this door, avoid windows. Also, it's a good idea to install some lag screws in the hinge side of the door. Run them in so that about 1" of the unthreaded portion of the shoulder is visible. Hacksaw off the heads, leaving 1" studs protrucing. Then drill same sized holes in the jamb of the door. This way, when the door is closed and dead-bolted the hinge pins can't be pulled and the door pried out of the opening. For extra security, use two dead-bolts. One in the upper 1/4 of the door and another in the lower quarter. If the door is a solid core or steel door it will take a lot of work to get through, especially if the door frame is reinforced.
 
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And unlike this door, avoid windows. Also, it's a good idea to install some lag screws in the hinge side of the door. Run them in so that about 1" of the unthreaded portion of the shoulder is visible. Hacksaw off the heads, leaving 1" studs protrucing. Then drill same sized holes in the jamb of the door. This way, when the door is closed and dead-bolted the hinge pins can't be pulled and the door pried out of the opening. For extra security, use two dead-bolts. One in the upper 1/4 of the door and another in the lower quarter. If the door is a solid core or steel door it will take a lot of work to get through, especially if the door frame is reinforced.

Agreed. I would have gone this rout if my reloading room was not in my shop. If someone gets into my shop (Very easy to do seeing as its a pole building) they have access to all sorts of things gain entry, no mater what I do to secure the room. Just short of framing the walls and pouring concrete, it is pointless in my situation. Thought I would just have a nice window in the door to see into the shop. LOL. I guess its a good thing that I home the vast majority of the time.
 
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Agreed. I would have gone this rout if my reloading room was not in my shop. If someone gets into my shop (Very easy to do seeing as its a pole building) they have access to all sorts of things gain entry, no mater what I do to secure the room. Just short of framing the walls and pouring concrete, it is pointless in my situation. Thought I would just have a nice window in the door to see into the shop. LOL. I guess its a good thing that I home the vast majority of the time.

In a pole building there is always the big hungry dog that stays inside while your gone. The dog will appreciate getting in out of the cold and rain at night. Promise him/her a big steak if they catch anyone that breaks in.
 
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Thanks. I've loaded about 100 rounds so far. I only load what I use until I can find a combo I really like. As far as the shelf, I pull the whole thing out because it gets in the way of the powder measure. (and so I don't have to constantly get up to get things.)
 

Mark W.

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And unlike this door, avoid windows. Also, it's a good idea to install some lag screws in the hinge side of the door. Run them in so that about 1" of the unthreaded portion of the shoulder is visible. Hacksaw off the heads, leaving 1" studs protrucing. Then drill same sized holes in the jamb of the door. This way, when the door is closed and dead-bolted the hinge pins can't be pulled and the door pried out of the opening. For extra security, use two dead-bolts. One in the upper 1/4 of the door and another in the lower quarter. If the door is a solid core or steel door it will take a lot of work to get through, especially if the door frame is reinforced.
My room is a walk in closet in a place not normal for a closet at all. No window and between the actual wall structure and sub structures on both sides of the wall in place they would have to dig through 2 feet of stuff to reach the goodies. The door is the most accessable part of the room and is the one part I want to improve. I been thinking on this project much longer then I should have. Time to get it done.
 

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