Recommendations for reloading 7mm-08

[bsa1917hunter]

First things first. Buy a couple good load manuals. For instance, if you intend to shoot Nosler bullets, buy a Nosler manual. If you know you will shoot Hornady bullets, buy a Hornady load manual. Its good to familiarize yourself with these manuals. Especially the "how to" section. Every hand loader should have these manuals, I don't care if you can get load data off the internet. It's always good to have a good reference at hand and one that will walk you through important steps of the loading process.. You don't need a good buddy that loads to hold your hand. Sometimes its better if you learn and retain information on your own, rather than someone else showing you and then you barely get the gist of it and screw up something along the way because you weren't thorough enough or didn't remember a certain step. Trust me, a couple good load manuals at your side will be a good investment.. As a side note, I'm actually glad you are considering reloading for that new rifle. I was wondering how you would ever be able to shoot your desired 3" groups at 500 yards with factory ammo in that rifle. With handloads, you should be able to get closer to that goal you have..

 

[eightyeight mag]

Works great for me. I'd buy it for all of my rifles, if they had it available for every cartridge I load for.. Sig sauer is also a very good one to consider, however I don't think they make 7mm08 brass at this time.. As for powders and loads, I'd buy some Ramshot Big game powder and some 150gr. Hornady ELD-X bullets. That bullet will work near and far and is great on paper and big game.

They do make it.
I have it.

 

[Darkker]

You're way above my level on powder chemistry. When you say a progressive burn implies the burning curve changes speed with pressure, by pressure, do you mean how much the powder is being compressed in the case by the seating depth of the bullet? It seems obvious from your statement that a progressive powder has a non-linear burning curve.
I think I understand what you're saying about powder geometry controlling burn rate. However, I've generally been told you should use X grains of powder P for a bullet of weight W in a particular cartridge for some particular application. I've never heard of loading based on powder volume. Is there data out there that maps powder weight to powder volume for a particular powder choice?

No, pressure as the powder burns.
Here is an example of a "normal" or non-progressive burning curve. Ignore the fact that they aren't identical. The point is that the peak quickly and drop quickly; "Normal" burning curve.


Here are examples of progressive curves, different only by the plateau at the peak of pressure.



Lee manuals aren't the simplest at explaining it, but cover it.
Remember that manuals don't tell you Xgr of H4350 equal Y velocity. They tell you that lot number..... It's a secret, tested.... It's a secret, that they achieved W velocity. That's why almost every manual has differing charges and velocities of "the same" powder.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

They do make it.
I have it.

Sig sauer makes 7mm08 brass? Damn, you need to hook a brother up... That's all I use in my AR10 308w... Where are you getting your sig 7mm08 brass?

 

[titsonritz]

7mm-08 Remington The best all-around cartridge! Reloading Data

 

[eightyeight mag]

Sig sauer makes 7mm08 brass? Damn, you need to hook a brother up... That's all I use in my AR10 308w... Where are you getting your sig 7mm08 brass?

My bad.
Thought you meant starline.
Not sure why sig sauer brass would get you excited. Maybe norma or lapua but sig?

 

[bbbass]

That's great feedback - thanks!
I use lube for my 44-40 and 38-40 brass so I'm covered there.
And yes, I will go out and invest in a few bullet maker's reloading guides for rifle rounds since I really have no experience with these types of cartridges.
So what dies do I actually need for short action rifle? I see many kits with just two dies, but I would think I need at least three. For my cowboy cartridges I have three - and please excuse my lack of technical terminology here - one resizing die that pushes out the primer and seats a new primer, one that flares the case mouth and loads the powder charge, and one that seats the bullet and crimps the case mouth. For my 38 Supercomp, I have a fourth that does an additional roll crimp.
I'm not sure if the fourth is needed for a cartridge like the 7mm-08, but I'm pretty sure I would need the first three at the very least.

Yes, first buy the reloading books that match the bullets you plan on using. Then buy the Hornady Reloading Manual... it is a bible book on reloading.

Re: dies... rifle die sets consist of a resizer die, which also decaps as you know, and has an expander ball on the end of the decapper rod just above the decapping pin. This ball expands the case mouth on the upstroke of the RL550 handle. Then you pour your powder. Then the 2nd die is a combo bullet seater and crimp die. Your 7mm-08 will use a taper crimp. There may be some die sets that have a separate crimp making them a 3die set... not sure.

You can pour the powder straight into the case from your scale (most accurate powder method) or you can use your powder measure. However, extruded powders are difficult in powder measures and IMO you will get better accuracy from consistent powder drops with weighing each on the scale. Take your time!

IMO volume powder loading is above a beginner's pay grade. The reloading books talk about weight, so use their methods and recommended starting loads. Then work your way up, seeing if there is a best weight that your rifle likes within that bullet/powder combo. Then try a different powder. KISS for starters.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

My bad.
Thought you meant starline.
Not sure why sig sauer brass would get you excited. Maybe norma or lapua but sig?

I like and use Lapua brass, but it doesn't do anything any better than my Sig sauer brass does. Especially in my hunting rifles. Like I also said, I use it in an AR10, which are known for beating up on brass. The sig holds up very well for the application. I'd love to see them start making more brass for different cartridges. I'd buy it for sure.

 

[Darkker]

IMO volume powder loading is above a beginner's pay grade. The reloading books talk about weight, so use their methods and recommended starting loads.

I agree it's not very approachable, but the difficulty is no different than the discussion of FFP vs. SFP scopes; just far too much bad info out there.

The reason there is (currently) little volume info is a function of equipment. A quick search shows lots of volume devices, with no actual volumetric references, and a shockingly high price. Accurate scales are dirt cheap, and ubiquitous.
The fundamental issue people constantly mess up, is the difference in the words "EQUALS" and "REFERENCES".

A few things to remember: even "sealed" powder canisters gain and lose moisture, this changes burning rate constantly. See the last few Norma manual's for pressure data supporting this. So if you are going to follow my method, remember do it for EVERY bottle, and do it more than once if you store powder more than you burn it.

My method:
Set your Perfect Powder Measure to a volume, say 3 CC's. Dispense some powder, and weigh it, personally I take a three dispense average. This is your REFERENCE to get to volume, NOT your equivalent!
If that 3 CC's weighs 46gr.
Then:
3CC ÷ 46gr = 0.065217
That number is a REFERENCE. Just like manuals (except the old and defunct A-Squared) never tell you if they pressure tested, calculated, lot numbers, or when done, you don't look in a manual and truly know, this method is no further "different".

Take that number above, and multiply it by the START and the MAX charges listed. Now you have the CC REFERENCE from any data showing weight only. Just as any prudent reloader, you will test and watch velocities to know you are within book pressures; unless you can pressure test of course.

Cheers

 

[bbbass]

FFP vs SFP???

 

[Darkker]

FFP vs SFP???

First Focal Plane, and Second Focal Plane.

If your scope's reticle always stays the same size as you zoom, relative to the target, that is a Second Focal Plane.

 

[bbbass]

First Focal Plane, and Second Focal Plane.

If your scope's reticle always stays the same size as you zoom, relative to the target, that is a Second Focal Plane.

Good to know, because that is where you lost me in your lesson on volume.

I get what you said, but nowadays math makes my head ache. Even so, your method seems easy now that you explained. However, I'm not a benchrest match shooter, so I'm probably not gonna do calculations to get to the nth degree of accuracy out of my rifle/load.

So many reloaders here that have great knowledge... thanx for sharing!!!

 

[Darkker]

Absolutely.
If weight is easier for someone, then by all means do that. They should just understand that 0.1gr isn't as accurate as they might think, and that an alternative way isn't terribly difficult.
I should probably do a scope thread too....
Man-oh-man do I wish I knew the truth about FFP before I threw so much money down the SFP rat hole

 

[No_Regerts]

Absolutely.
If weight is easier for someone, then by all means do that. They should just understand that 0.1gr isn't as accurate as they might think, and that an alternative way isn't terribly difficult.
I should probably do a scooter thread too....
Man-oh-man do I wish I knew the truth about FFP before I threw so much money down the rat hole

Thats how they get us to buy more crap.

 

[P7M13]

I have two. An AR7-08, 18" barrel and a Ruger Hawkeye in 18" too.
For the Ruger, I recently started using Speer #1634 160gr bullets. I did workups using AA4350 from 41.5gr to 46.0gr. I had a great great node at 43.5, but no idea of MV.

Here's my standby for the AR:
BULLET WT POWDER GRAINS OAL BC MV BULLET MFG POWDER MFG
139 4064 42.0 2.8 2636.2 HORNADY IMR

On Brass, I have PPU, S&B, Federal, and Nosler in 7mm-08. I shoot a lot more than that, so converted ~400 7.62x51 brass. Because NATO cases are thicker, I had to neck turn and case trim after converting.
The reality is, I'm not a good enough marksman to tell the difference between the brass. That AA4350 node mentioned above is probably me doing better trigger technique than any of the other groups, rather than it "liking" the powder amount.

 

[capdek]

So let me see if I can summarize what I've learned so far as a beginner with this caliber.
Choose one or more bullets and get the reloading manuals from the corresponding manufacturers. Then supplement this reading material with the Hornady reloading manual.
Seems there's no strong consensus on what brass to use - Winchester, Remington, Hornady, Starline, SigSauer, and Lapua have all been mentioned - so I would guess the choice of brass is the least important element in working up a good hand load.
Start with a medium to moderately slower burning powder - like Varget for example.
Get a set of two or three dies - most manufacturers are good - making sure to manually pour the weighed powder directly into each case for better consistency.
I took a look at the 7mm-08 link titsonritz provided and this person was getting 0.250" groups of three shots at 100 yards with the 140 grain Nosler BTs using 44.5 grains of Varget in a Browning A-Bolt Composite Stalker with a 22" barrel.
So here's my thoughts on moving forward.
Get the Nosler, Sierra and Lapua reloading manuals, as well as the Hornady reloading manual and start reading.
Work up a few rounds of the 140 grain Nosler BTs using 44.5 grains of Varget to get a feel for how this works and try them in my Model 70. If I can get 0.250 inch groups at 100 yards, I'm a very happy camper. If not, try the 150gr Sierra MatchKings or Lapua Scenars with an appropriate powder and powder charge based on what I read in the Sierra and Lapua manuals.
Get some dies. I see Brownell's has a Redding Deluxe 3-die set for 7mm-08 in stock. Does anyone know of any reason why the Redding dies would not work in my RL550? If not, does this set sound like a good choice?
Thanks again for all the great feedback!

 

[Darkker]

Until you know where your lot of powders burning rate is, start at the beginning and work up to an accurate node. Whether the "most accurate" from a book or someone online, that may or may not mean anything compared to your lot. There is ALWAYS a couple accuracy nodes in loading data. Just have to find what your rifle and combination likes.

 

[titsonritz]

I should probably do a scope thread too....
Man-oh-man do I wish I knew the truth about FFP before I threw so much money down the rat hole

Do it.

ETA: Never mind I see you did.

 

[orygun]

I see Brownell's has a Redding Deluxe 3-die set for 7mm-08 in stock. Does anyone know of any reason why the Redding dies would not work in my RL550? If not, does this set sound like a good choice?

I use Redding dies for my 45 ACP in my Dillon. I've used Lee, Hornady, Redding, RCBS. Lyman and Pacific dies on it. I believe the only real difference in a Dillon die is the mouth is slightly more funneled to work smoother on a progressive loader. When working the press as a progressive I sometimes have a case mouth get caught up on the die when the ram is coming up. Just keep your eyes on it and don't let your hand get too fast, and you shouldn't have a problem. Rush it, and you'll kill a case or two.

 

[pharmseller]

Just saw this.

I load for 4 7mm-08s, all Tikkas. Best factory rifle imo, so take it for what it's worth. Two are mine, one is my dad's, the last is my brother's, which he tricked me out of, and I don't want to talk about it.

I use Remington brass, neck sized only (Lee collet die), matched to the chamber from which it was fired. Winchester Large Rifle Magnum primers. Big Game powder. Hornady Custom Grade seating die. Lee Classic Cast Turret press. RCBS Chargemaster powder dispenser.

I have data on five different bullets: 120 TTSX, 120 Nosler Ballistic Tip, 140 Partition, 140 Accubond, and 150 ELDX. Since you're focusing on long-range shooting (actually mid range, since 0-300 is close, 301-600 is mid, and 601-1000 is long) we'll just look at the 150 ELDX due to the outstanding ballistic coefficient.

Safe in my rifles, start low and work up:

My T3 Lite stainless named Red Death:



My T3 Superlite, unnamed at this point:



Notice that both of my Tikkas shoot the same recipe. Not unheard of, but rare.

My brother's Superlite during final load development. His BTO is 2.156":



Muzzle velocity is knocking on 2800 FPS, which creates a supersonic path farther than you are likely to shoot.

Accurate, high BC, good velocity, low recoil.





P