Recommendations for reloading 7mm-08

[pharmseller]

But keep in mind that bullets, powders, powder charges, primers, brass, and seating depths is like seducing women.

You never know which combination is going to work.

And the corollary, what works on one might not work on another.

And the universal truth, don't talk about her sister.

 

[pharmseller]

And I don't crimp.

 

[capdek]

Wow, those Tikka's are excellent shooting rifles!

Here's an update on the reloading front. After a bunch of research and some discussions with Velzey, I decided my Dillon is not really the best choice for loading small quantities of high quality rifle ammo. But I still like the idea of some amount of automation, so I decided to get a Redding T-7 turret press. I've also decided to try both full length resizing and neck only resizing. I looked at a number of the bushing based neck resizing dies and - quite frankly - I became overwhelmed with the discussions on runout and the complexity of choosing the appropriate bushing size. Consequently, I decided on the Lee Collet neck sizer die. It has very good reviews and is the simplest way to get into neck-only resizing at a very modest cost. The only problem I can see with this die is getting it properly installed in my press so I don't under-size or over-size the neck. And in fact, getting all my new dies properly installed in my press seems to be my first big question for the experts here.

So here's the set of dies I've purchased for reloading 7mm-08:

• Lee decapper die,
• Redding FL sizer die,
• Redding body-only die,
• Lee Collet neck sizer die
• Forster Ultra micro-seater die

When I want to go the safe and simple route, I've got the Redding FL sizer die. When I want to go the neck only route, I've got the Lee Collet die. And when I need to body size as well as neck size, I've got the Redding body-only die. The Forster does all the seating and the Lee decapper gives me the opportunity to deprime before cleaning. So I think all the bases are covered with this set of dies.

The one thing that mystifies me is how to properly install these dies in my new press. It seems like one of the first things to do is to have the bottom of the die touch the top of the shell plate when the ram is fully up, then lower the ram and screw in the die some number of turns or partial turns until it's at some 'proper' depth. But there seems to be some magic involved in determining what this 'proper' depth should be that requires experimentation with a certain 'feel' of the handle when the arm is pressed down to full length.

So, I'm hoping some of the experts here can give me some guidance on how to do this for the various dies I've purchased. Any help is very much appreciated!

 

[orygun]

Die set up "normally" is the die touching the shellholder at full lift, and quite possibly a bit more than that to make up for flex in the press. If you are using one manufacturer's dies and another's shellholder, you are far better off starting off "long" (2 turns out from previously described) on your die setting, then checking to see if the empty case will chamber. If not, turn it down a 1/4 turn and try everything again. Repeat til it fits. If it fits the first time, then try a turn farther out and repeat the process.

As far as "feel", that's where only two things will tell you. Someone else to show you or experience from doing it over and over.
Always start with a little and then try more.

 

[capdek]

Thanks Orygun. I did find a video online showing how to install the Redding FL sizer and standard Redding seater dies in the T7 so that's a good start. What really has me concerned is the statement that installing the Lee Collet die differs if you are installing it in a Lee press versus a "toggle over center press". I'm not sure if my new Redding T7 is a "toggle over center press". I think so, but I'm not really sure.
I really wanted to get the Forster Co-Ax press but do you think you can find one of these darn things for sale anywhere? Heck no! Brownells says 'unavailable for backorder', Midway says 'out of stock no backorder' and on it goes. I'm surprised Forster isn't cranking out more of these - they seem like they're very much in demand.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

You are getting some good advice from these guys. I'd like to add that setting up your sizing die is different than setting up your seater too. Probably the best procedure for setting up these dies comes with your die set. I know with the RCBS dies I buy, they always come with instructions on how to set them up. Carefully follow those instructions and you should be good to go. Properly setting up your die (both seater and sizer) is a key element to attaining the accuracy you are in search of. Now back to a comment you made about powder choice and charge wt. Talking about how someone posted a charge wt. that worked great in their rifle and you wanting to just jump on board and load your rifle with that charge wt and that powder. Please don't do that, unless it is in the lower spectrum of the listed book starting loads. Not everyone's rifle is going to shoot a load that was "proven" in another rifle. That load may also be dangerous in a different rifle. Hence, the reason to start low and "work up". Wanting to just try that one charge wt and bullet and if it doesn't work, switch to another bullet, will be non productive. You will want to learn how to properly work up a load and find an accuracy node you can live with. Working up good loads can be easy, don't make it any harder than it has to be. But be sure to "work up", that is essential... Another critical aspect in accurate rifle reloading is finding your optimum OAL (over all length) for each bullet you intend to load/test. Keep it simple, keep it out of the throat, especially if you are a hunter. Bullets that are jammed into the lands are not good, as this can cause problems. I try to avoid problems like this, as I've learned that a jammed bullet in the lands can end a range session in a hurry. Find those lands before you ever start loading that bullet. I generally try to stay off the lands by .020" with most cup and core and premium bullets. However, keep in mind, some bullets like more jump to the lands. The Barnes mono metal comes to mind here. Handloading is fun, but with it also comes a great responsibility.
Furthermore, it sounds like your new rifle is a shooter. I look forward to seeing and hearing more about it. Remember, I'm rooting for you to consistently shoot those 3" groups at 500 yards (as you stated in another thread). Make that model 70 sing!!!

 

[capdek]

Thanks bsa1917hunter. I decided to get some additional powders beside the Varget based on advice from Velzey and will go to my Sierra and Nosler reloading manuals to start with a load in the middle between the min and max loads for the specified bullet and powder. I have some Nosler BT 140 grain bullets I can start with since my rifle seemed to really like that bullet in the Winchester and Federal factory ammo Velzey used to sight in the M70.
And yes, I'll carefully go over the instructions that came with the dies.
I really want to thank you for all the help and encouragement. I'll definitely keep you posted on how it goes.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

Thanks bsa1917hunter. I decided to get some additional powders beside the Varget based on advice from Velzey and will go to my Sierra and Nosler reloading manuals to start with a load in the middle between the min and max loads for the specified bullet and powder. I have some Nosler BT 140 grain bullets I can start with since my rifle seemed to really like that bullet in the Winchester and Federal factory ammo Velzey used to sight in the M70.
And yes, I'll carefully go over the instructions that came with the dies.
I really want to thank you for all the help and encouragement. I'll definitely keep you posted on how it goes.

Sounds great man! I wish you good luck. Your rifle looks great. I wish my featherweight shot as well as your new rifle does. 7mm08 is a great cartridge. Pharmseller really helped when it came to picking out a good powder for the 7mm08. Currently I'm using big game powder, as he suggested, and it's working great. However, I don't shoot my rifle much these days though, since I have been playing around with my 6.5 cm. I'll eventually start loading for that rifle again and shooting it more. I'd like to hunt with it next year:

Model 70 classic featherweight 7mm08..

 

[capdek]

Well, it looks like my Redding FL sizer is damaged right from the factory! When I adjust the depth of the inner sizing rod with the attached depriming pin (not sure about the correct technical term for this inner rod), I can see that it is not rotating perfectly round - it is making little ovals! I'm certainly no expert, but that just can't be right. So I guess I'm going to have to send it back to Redding for a replacement.
Well they do say they have a lifetime warranty on their stuff and they'll see pretty quick the dies hasn't even been used, so they should replace it no questions asked. But this still means time to ship it back, the cost of shipping and then waiting for the replacement. So it looks like it will be a while before I'm doing any full length resizing.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

Well, it looks like my Redding FL sizer is damaged right from the factory! When I adjust the depth of the inner sizing rod with the attached depriming pin (not sure about the correct technical term for this inner rod), I can see that it is not rotating perfectly round - it is making little ovals! I'm certainly no expert, but that just can't be right. So I guess I'm going to have to send it back to Redding for a replacement.
Well they do say they have a lifetime warranty on their stuff and they'll see pretty quick the dies hasn't even been used, so they should replace it no questions asked. But this still means time to ship it back, the cost of shipping and then waiting for the replacement. So it looks like it will be a while before I'm doing any full length resizing.

Too bad you are set on Redding. Not to dis on them, but all I use is RCBS and accuracy is not bad at all.. Won a few + turkey with a few of my rifles and handloads recently....:
This is a load I worked up with my newest rifle. Not a heavy barrel either:


The 6.5 CM I was talking about:


Regular ol RCBS FL sizing and seater set you can buy at bi-mart or just about any place that sells reloading equipment..

 

[capdek]

Wow, very nice shooting! And even with the wind, both averages come in under MOA - you must be extremely pleased with that performance!
I think I'm going to try and get a full refund from the place that sold me the Redding FL die since it was obviously defective right out of the box. Then I can go out a buy a simple RCBS die for full length resizing for less money. If they won't refund me, I'm sure Redding will replace it for free, but it may be a while before I get the replacement. There's a good chance Cabela's may have a two die set of RCBS 7mm-08 dies right on the shelf. I will definitely look into this.
Thanks again bsa1917hunter.

 

[tac]

All I know at this stage is 7mm bullet weights generally range between 120 and 150 grains.

7mm bullets go up to 180gr. I shoot 175gr, but not in a modern calibre like yours. My two 7x57 are both way over a 100 years old. Have you thought about buying a one-calibre loading manual? Loadbooks prints 'em.


7mm-08 Remington
All of our manuals are shipped U.S. Postal Service. The shipping cost is included in the price of the manual. International orders will be requested through Paypal to pay an additional shipping charge.

 

[capdek]

7mm bullets go up to 180gr. I shoot 175gr, but not in a modern calibre like yours. My two 7x57 are both way over a 100 years old. Have you thought about buying a one-calibre loading manual? Loadbooks prints 'em.

View attachment 525302
7mm-08 Remington
All of our manuals are shipped U.S. Postal Service. The shipping cost is included in the price of the manual. International orders will be requested through Paypal to pay an additional shipping charge.

Yes, I managed to find this book at Midway and ordered it. It provides loading data for an assortment of bullet and powder manufacturers. The only minor thing I noticed was it did not include load data for the 150g Nosler Accubond LR bullets. Luckily this data does appear in the Nosler manual which I picked up at the local Cabela's, so I'm covered for these bullets going forward.

Regarding the defective Redding FL sizer die, I contacted Redding and they will send me out a replacement first thing Monday morning. Since it's coming from NY, it may take a while to get here. In the meantime, I will head down to Cabela's this weekend to see if they have a set of standard RCBS dies in stock for the 7mm-08 Rem. These sets are pretty inexpensive - I think on the order of $40 or so - and if they work as well as bsa1917hunter says, I may just use their FL sizer die and keep the Redding as a backup.

 

[capdek]

Bye-the-way, I'm still wondering if any of you know if the Redding T7 turret is a "toggle over center press". It does look like all the dies come with the necessary instructions as mentioned by orygun, but the instructions for the Lee Collet die require you to know whether or not your press is a "toggle over center" press. Does anyone know for sure if the Redding T7 is such a press?

 

[pharmseller]

When I started neck sizing with the Lee collet die I also asked for help. The following is the reply I received. I have followed it to the letter, with great results.

"The first thing I recommend is to ignore the instructions supplied with the die.

The second thing I recommend is to ignore whether or not the press you're using cams over at the top of its stroke.

The die squeezes the neck onto a mandrel, so for a given neck thickness there is a finite limit to how much sizing you can achieve. This die will need adjustment to suit different thicknesses of brass.

Raise the press ram to the top of its stroke. Thread the die into the press until the bottom of the sizing collet (not the die body) just touches the shell holder. Measure the neck OD of a piece of brass.

Run the brass through the die using a full press stroke. It should take no effort since if you're set up as described the die has done no sizing. Turn the die into the press about 1/4 turn. Run the brass in again. You probably won't feel much sizing going on, but give the neck a measurement just to see. If it's still nothing, screw the die in another 1/4th and try again. You'll may start feeling a bit going on as you work the press handle, and if so you'll be able to measure a little sizing taking place.

Rinse and repeat using 1/16th turn in increments for the die. You'll feel increases in the force required for the sizing stroke. Since you're measuring the neck after each pass you'll eventually find two increments where the neck didn't get any smaller. NOW STOP TURNING THE DIE INTO THE PRESS. Remember you're squeezing the brass against a solid steel mandrel which isn't going to give, so even if the press stroke didn't feel like it took very much force the neck is as small as it's going to get.

There's a learning curve to the die, but it isn't hard.

I like to run cases through the die twice, spinning the case about 1/3 turn (rather than the 1/2 turn in the instructions) between passes. This means the parts of the neck that were under the splits in the collet fingers on the first pass will get hit on the second."



Good luck. Keep the brass segregated by times fired and rifle from which it was fired.




P