Recommendations for reloading 7mm-08

[capdek]

I recently purchased a new Winchester Model 70 Super Grade in 7mm-08 and I'm noticing most if not all factory ammo is geared towards hunting and not for accurate target shooting. Since I will be using my new rifle primarily for target shooting with the occasional hunting trip to central Oregon, I'm firstly interested in recommended factory ammo for target shooting in this caliber and for this rifle.
Secondly, I'm interested in re-loading for this caliber and rifle. I have a Dillon RL550 press and I have experience reloading 44-40, 38-40 and 38 Special for cowboy action shooting, as well as 38 Supercomp for USPSA competition. These are all pistol caliber cartridges, so I have zero experience loading anything for short action rifle.
Consequently, I'm looking for recommendations on:

• high quality 7mm-08 dies for my RL500 press,
• the proper settings for these dies in my press,
• recommended brass, powder make/charge, and bullet make/weight that would work best for accurate target shooting with my new rifle

Thanks in advance for any help you can throw my way.

Read More

 

[orygun]

I used Hornady New Dimension dies. I like the seater die, but I did have a small issue with the sizing die and had to remove material off of the end of it to make cases chamber. I've always had good luck with RCBS dies and the ones for my '06 produce consistently true rounds.
Hopefully you have a 22" or longer barrel. If not, pay very close attention to the faster powders. In a 16.5" barrel I had a hard time matching factory ammo velocities.

I also use a RL550 for my loading, but use it as a single stage and weigh each powder charge. I usually use stick powders that don't measure as evenly as I'd like out of a measure. I do the priming with a hand tool, mostly because I got tired of errant powder grains causing dented primers.

 

[capdek]

Thanks for the feedback. I know about errant powder grains and dented primers. I've seen it happen many times.
Sounds like RCBS dies are good. I use Lee dies for my other calibers and they work fine in my RL550. But I read somewhere that the Lee rifle dies may be too short for the RL550. Based on your response, I assume you are using 7mm-08 RCBS dies with your RL550 with no issues. Is that correct?
The Model 70 SG in 7mm-08 has a 22" barrel with a 1:9.5 twist. I have absolutely no experience whatsoever with choice of brass, powders, powder weight, bullets and bullet weights for this caliber in a rifle with this pretty standard barrel configuration. Based on my research, a 1:9.5 twist is the most common for the 7mm-08. I've also read that Lapua brass is very good and Sierra bullets are a good choice, but I have absolutely no idea what make of powder and what powder charge would work best. And of course those choices will depend on the chosen bullet weight. Naturally, I'm inclined to go with a lighter bullet for reduced recoil, but I have no problem going with a heavier bullet if it brings much better accuracy out to larger distances. All I know at this stage is 7mm bullet weights generally range between 120 and 150 grains.

 

[No_Regerts]

Thanks for the feedback. I know about errant powder grains and dented primers. I've seen it happen many times.
Sounds like RCBS dies are good. I use Lee dies for my other calibers and they work fine in my RL550. But I read somewhere that the Lee rifle dies may be too short for the RL550. Based on your response, I assume you are using 7mm-08 RCBS dies with your RL550 with no issues. Is that correct?
The Model 70 SG in 7mm-08 has a 22" barrel with a 1:9.5 twist. I have absolutely no experience whatsoever with choice of brass, powders, powder weight, bullets and bullet weights for this caliber in a rifle with this pretty standard barrel configuration. Based on my research, a 1:9.5 twist is the most common for the 7mm-08. I've also read that Lapua brass is very good and Sierra bullets are a good choice, but I have absolutely no idea what make of powder and what powder charge would work best. And of course those choices will depend on the chosen bullet weight. Naturally, I'm inclined to go with a lighter bullet for reduced recoil, but I have no problem going with a heavier bullet if it brings much better accuracy out to larger distances. All I know at this stage is 7mm bullet weights generally range between 120 and 150 grains.

How far will you be shooting?

 

[orygun]

Ya know, I actually haven't used the 7mm-08 dies in the Dillon, but I see no reason why they wouldn't work.
Let me dig around a little and see if I can come up with some notes from when I was dinking around with it. I always use Remington brass because it's plentiful. I usually have enough that I can sort out by weight and keep things even.
I think I even have a few bullets left over I'd donate to your cause, as I'm not planning on loading any more.

 

[capdek]

How far will you be shooting?

Anywhere from 100 to 500 yards. Not really looking too much beyond that. Probably 200 to 300 yards would be the average.

 

[capdek]

Ya know, I actually haven't used the 7mm-08 dies in the Dillon, but I see no reason why they wouldn't work.
Let me dig around a little and see if I can come up with some notes from when I was dinking around with it. I always use Remington brass because it's plentiful. I usually have enough that I can sort out by weight and keep things even.
I think I even have a few bullets left over I'd donate to your cause, as I'm not planning on loading any more.

That would be great - thanks!
I know this will take some time to figure out. Since I know absolutely jack at this point, my biggest concern is making sure I don't spend money on stuff that just won't work or - worse yet - squib or blow up the rifle. After that, a bit of trial and error I imagine after getting some solid guidance from members here who are in the know.

 

[No_Regerts]

That would be great - thanks!
I know this will take some time to figure out. Since I know absolutely jack at this point, my biggest concern is making sure I don't spend money on stuff that just won't work or - worse yet - squib or blow up the rifle. After that, a bit of trial and error I imagine after getting some solid guidance from members here who are in the know.

Bolt actions are very strong. If you use moderately slow powders like Varget and up to the 4350s, you wouldn't be able to cram enough powder in the case to do much.

If I were reloading 7mm-08 to shoot at targets at ranges out to 500 yards, I'd use 150gr Sierra MatchKings or Lapua Scenars. They are cheaper than premium hunting bullets and are accurate. I use Winchester and Hornady bulk brass, just not together.

 

[bbbass]

Just looked in my Sierra loading manual, but it's too old to show 7mm-08. But I think you would get the best results starting with powders that are common to medium action cartridges and the .308 in particular. I use 3031 and 4064 (medium burning powders) in my .308 with just about equal results.

I think you really need to buy a couple of bullet maker's reloading guides... these have long introductions in them that you will need to get started and to understand the process. IMO it would take too long to describe fully here. Just know that it is different from reloading pistol cartridges which are fairly easy in comparison.

Start with a recommended load out of a book and work it up. Then change powders and try again. Then change bullets and start over. Shooting for accuracy with reloads is a process, a journey. It's fun!!

IMO the dies you choose won't make a big difference. Just use what is available to buy. I have RCBS dies and they work fine, replacement decapper pins are readily available at my local gun store. Just don't forget to buy a case lube pad and some case lube. Resizing rifle brass w/o lube is a disaster!

 

[bbbass]

Find a buddy or a relative that reloads and can help guide you.

 

[eightyeight mag]

Starline now offers 7mm-08 for brass and seems good quailty at a reasonable price.

 

[capdek]

Bolt actions are very strong. If you use moderately slow powders like Varget and up to the 4350s, you wouldn't be able to cram enough powder in the case to do much.

If I were reloading 7mm-08 to shoot at targets at ranges out to 500 yards, I'd use 150gr Sierra MatchKings or Lapua Scenars. They are cheaper than premium hunting bullets and are accurate. I use Winchester and Hornady bulk brass, just not together.

Thanks for the feedback. Makes sense on starting with a moderately slow burning powder. And basic physics tells me a heavier bullet will be more accurate at longer distances.
I guess I should also pick up a good reloading manual - something that will cover the 7mm-08. All my other reloading knowledge has come first hand from experienced cowboy action and USPSA shooters I met when I got into these sports.
That's the reason I'm here really. Book learning is fine to get you started, but it will never replace real-world experience.
Bye-the-way, your signature comment has got to be one of the best I've ever seen!

 

[No_Regerts]

Thanks for the feedback. Makes sense on starting with a moderately slow burning powder. And basic physics tells me a heavier bullet will be more accurate at longer distances.
I guess I should also pick up a good reloading manual - something that will cover the 7mm-08. All my other reloading knowledge has come first hand from experienced cowboy action and USPSA shooters I met when I got into these sports.
That's the reason I'm here really. Book learning is fine to get you started, but it will never replace real-world experience.
Bye-the-way, your signature comment has got to be one of the best I've ever seen!

Most of the slower rifle powders are made with inhibitors to achieve that burn rate. I will generally try to find a powder in a manual that achieves higher load density. I usually find that I want to use up as much of the case as possible to achieve best accuracy. And I measure/weigh every single load.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

Pharmseller should be here shortly..

 

[capdek]

Just looked in my Sierra loading manual, but it's too old to show 7mm-08. But I think you would get the best results starting with powders that are common to medium action cartridges and the .308 in particular. I use 3031 and 4064 (medium burning powders) in my .308 with just about equal results.

I think you really need to buy a couple of bullet maker's reloading guides... these have long introductions in them that you will need to get started and to understand the process. IMO it would take too long to describe fully here. Just know that it is different from reloading pistol cartridges which are fairly easy in comparison.

Start with a recommended load out of a book and work it up. Then change powders and try again. Then change bullets and start over. Shooting for accuracy with reloads is a process, a journey. It's fun!!

IMO the dies you choose won't make a big difference. Just use what is available to buy. I have RCBS dies and they work fine, replacement decapper pins are readily available at my local gun store. Just don't forget to buy a case lube pad and some case lube. Resizing rifle brass w/o lube is a disaster!

That's great feedback - thanks!
I use lube for my 44-40 and 38-40 brass so I'm covered there.
And yes, I will go out and invest in a few bullet maker's reloading guides for rifle rounds since I really have no experience with these types of cartridges.
So what dies do I actually need for short action rifle? I see many kits with just two dies, but I would think I need at least three. For my cowboy cartridges I have three - and please excuse my lack of technical terminology here - one resizing die that pushes out the primer and seats a new primer, one that flares the case mouth and loads the powder charge, and one that seats the bullet and crimps the case mouth. For my 38 Supercomp, I have a fourth that does an additional roll crimp.
I'm not sure if the fourth is needed for a cartridge like the 7mm-08, but I'm pretty sure I would need the first three at the very least.

 

[Darkker]

So there isn't a single "paint by numbers" answer to your (the OP) question.
Brand of cases, short of a specific quality complaint, are irrelevant.

I use Let does, because they work; IMO are anothers than RCBS, but all fundamentally work the same.
Powder that we but is all blended canister grade. The names you know don't make a single once of powder, and regularly swap suppliers. Prime example is Hodgdon. About 2 years ago now, the 1# bottles of H4064 was being sourced from General Dynamics; while the 8# bottles were coming from Rhinemetal. So while the same brand was slapped on the bottle, the powders were different.
Burning rates are also ENTIRELY rough approximations, and change with the application. Don't know if I ever posted the pressure traces here when I reviewed the FlatLine bullets.... RL-17 acts like a normal powder in the 308, but is progressive when placed in the Creedmoor. This means that the burning curve changes speed with pressure. So just follow pressure tested load data, and use something that gives the results you want.
Extruded powder has its burning rate controlled by geometry, so while weight obviously works fine; if you really want to get into the nuance of controlled burning and stability, use volume. Cutting kernels doesn't fundamentally alter them, and naturally volume will never have the same weight. This is neither a problem, nor important. No real production ammo facility loads by weight; and save one, no one uses canister grade powder.

Hope you find something that works for you.

Cheers

 

[capdek]

Starline now offers 7mm-08 for brass and seems good quailty at a reasonable price.

I use Starline brass for all my current cartridges - I've been extremely happy with it. I haven't looked if they sell brass for the 7mm-08. I know their stuff is great for the calibers I load, but I have no idea if that holds true for rifle rounds like the 7mm-08. I'll check to see if they sell it.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

Starline now offers 7mm-08 for brass and seems good quailty at a reasonable price.

Yeah, until we all start yapping about how good it is... . I bought some for my 6.5 creedmoor directly from them and it was a damn good deal. Bought 250 pcs for $125.00 shipped. That's $25/50. But the other day I saw some at sportsman's for $34.xx/bag of 50. That's damn near highway robbery. The reason I wanted to try it was because rifleshooter did a write-up on it. It held up great and was extremely accurate in the test rifle. I was sold and it's been working great for me as well. Cabela's has starline 7mm08 brass listed, but it always seems to be on backorder/not in stock. Not a bad price at $26.99, if it ever becomes available..

 

[bsa1917hunter]

I use Starline brass for all my current cartridges - I've been extremely happy with it. I haven't looked if they sell brass for the 7mm-08. I know their stuff is great for the calibers I load, but I have no idea if that holds true for rifle rounds like the 7mm-08. I'll check to see if they sell it.

Works great for me. I'd buy it for all of my rifles, if they had it available for every cartridge I load for.. Sig sauer is also a very good one to consider, however I don't think they make 7mm08 brass at this time.. As for powders and loads, I'd buy some Ramshot Big game powder and some 150gr. Hornady ELD-X bullets. That bullet will work near and far and is great on paper and big game.

 

[capdek]

So there isn't a single "paint by numbers" answer to your (the OP) question.
Brand of cases, short of a specific quality complaint, are irrelevant.

I use Let does, because they work; IMO are anothers than RCBS, but all fundamentally work the same.
Powder that we but is all blended canister grade. The names you know don't make a single once of powder, and regularly swap suppliers. Prime example is Hodgdon. About 2 years ago now, the 1# bottles of H4064 was being sourced from General Dynamics; while the 8# bottles were coming from Rhinemetal. So while the same brand was slapped on the bottle, the powders were different.
Burning rates are also ENTIRELY rough approximations, and change with the application. Don't know if I ever posted the pressure traces here when I reviewed the FlatLine bullets.... RL-17 acts like a normal powder in the 308, but is progressive when placed in the Creedmoor. This means that the burning curve changes speed with pressure. So just follow pressure tested load data, and use something that gives the results you want.
Extruded powder has its burning rate controlled by geometry, so while weight obviously works fine; if you really want to get into the nuance of controlled burning and stability, use volume. Cutting kernels doesn't fundamentally alter them, and naturally volume will never have the same weight. This is neither a problem, nor important. No real production ammo facility loads by weight; and save one, no one uses canister grade powder.

Hope you find something that works for you.

Cheers

You're way above my level on powder chemistry. When you say a progressive burn implies the burning curve changes speed with pressure, by pressure, do you mean how much the powder is being compressed in the case by the seating depth of the bullet? It seems obvious from your statement that a progressive powder has a non-linear burning curve.
I think I understand what you're saying about powder geometry controlling burn rate. However, I've generally been told you should use X grains of powder P for a bullet of weight W in a particular cartridge for some particular application. I've never heard of loading based on powder volume. Is there data out there that maps powder weight to powder volume for a particular powder choice?