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Yup - my wallet is a bit thin right now so not going to replace the chrono soon.Thats gonna leave a mark...
On the wallet.
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Yup - my wallet is a bit thin right now so not going to replace the chrono soon.Thats gonna leave a mark...
On the wallet.
If you reload, Make him some 44 mag loads with the heaviest bullet and a little less power. You can find 240 gr ammo at 975 fps that is marketed as Cowboy action ammo. This is pushing it toward the 45 Colt with a 255, 260 or 280 Gr bullet at just under 900 FPS. It uses a heavy for caliber bullet at a little less speed to even out the difference between a Magnum load with a lighter bullet.Hey team,
I am looking for a good bear gun for my dad who lives in Prescott, AZ. A guy was just mauled and partially eaten by a black bear (very rare) about ten minutes from their place. Dad knows his way around firearms, but at 81 I'm a little reluctanct for him to use his trusty .44MAG as that sucker kicks like a scalded mule and last time he had it at the range, I could tell he was having trouble controlling the recoil. I like a revolver for this task and am thinking 10mm. I've never shot a 10mm revolver, but I already know it's more manageable than the .44. I know the ten is a lower energy round but I think it will penetrate enough to give the bear second thoughts if not turn him into a nice rug.
Any suggestions? Thank you in advance.
They have some NICE .44sp loads now but factory was and many still are VERY low powered. Makers were worried about the models older than me still floating around that were made for BP. Before the CC market got them making nice small autos this got me to learn to roll. Bought first one then a couple more of those old Charter 5 shot .44's. Ammo was hard to find and when you could it sucked and back then us common folk could not order it. So it got me to try my hand at rolling. Now days there are of course some NICE .44 sp factory loads out there. I still just prefer one of the auto's since they are tame to shoot and easier to keep close at hand. Still do miss some of the large bore wheel guns I have had pass through my hands. When I see what they sell for now I often wish I had kept a couple. Never been a Glock fan but, stuff like this makes the 10mm models they make really shine. Hard to beat having 16 rounds of nice 10 in an easy to keep with you and easy to shoot package.I hear you. Somehow his having a .44 skipped my mind and what Catherine? said is sound. Many .44 special factory loads are horribly underpowered and ineffective for even rabbits. I'd load 240gr SWC's going like 800-1000fps. The sharp shoulder makes full caliber holes.
For me, a favorite woods load for years has been hot loaded Lee "coke can" 140gr SWC's stuffed into 9x19 cases.. it penetrates very deeply and invariably tumbles.
Yep, there's some good rounds, especially from the smaller manufacturers. You have to know what you're flinging. Oh, I had a bulldog too, 3" stainless hammerless back in Montana too.. I used that same 320gr SWC with an obscene (I repent) amount of Red Dot.. lesson learned but it was to be expected and lasted surprisingly long all things considered.They have some NICE .44sp loads now but factory was and many still are VERY low powered. Makers were worried about the models older than me still floating around that were made for BP. Before the CC market got them making nice small autos this got me to learn to roll. Bought first one then a couple more of those old Charter 5 shot .44's. Ammo was hard to find and when you could it sucked and back then us common folk could not order it. So it got me to try my hand at rolling. Now days there are of course some NICE .44 sp factory loads out there. I still just prefer one of the auto's since they are tame to shoot and easier to keep close at hand. Still do miss some of the large bore wheel guns I have had pass through my hands. When I see what they sell for now I often wish I had kept a couple. Never been a Glock fan but, stuff like this makes the 10mm models they make really shine. Hard to beat having 16 rounds of nice 10 in an easy to keep with you and easy to shoot package.
Wise words indeed...If it's black, fight back. If it's brown, lie down. If it's white, good night.
You want the gauge of 12 with slugs if at all possible.If it's black, fight back. If it's brown, lie down. If it's white, good night.
Bear spray more effective? That is blatant nonsense. Lord have mussy!While ballistics discussions are fun, the wet dishrag to be thrown into the discussion is the overwhelming encounter evidence that shows Bear Spray as far more effective than firearm deployment toward a favorable outcome.
Packing both is the best practice.
I hear you are supposed to fire two blasts.You want the gauge of 12 with slugs if at all possible.
Ditto the above...but with Honey Badger bullets. Black Hills ammo.He owns a .44mag revolver . All he has to do is switch to a lighter load.
I suggest Grizzly Cartridges .44sp 260 gr WFNGC Wide Flat nose gas check. It has a very wide flat nose with sharp edges. 950 fps. 521 ft. lbs. This has .357mag power level with a wider much heavier bullet with a much larger meplat (flat part of nose) than the .357. A review I read said it penetrates through 6 feet of pine board. The bullet is super hardcast.
Here's a link to the manufacturer, who is a NW company:
44 SPECIAL 260gr WFNGC - Grizzly Cartridge, LLC
Caliber: 44 SPECIAL Bullet Wt: 260gr Bullet Type: Wide Flat Nose Gas Check Velocity: 950 fps Rounds: 20 M.E.: 521 ft lbs. Made in the USA: Yes Recommended for: Hunting ...grizzlycartridge.com
All semiautomatic "flat nose" loads have only small flat noses with rounded edges so they will feed. They look like a hybrid of a real bear load and a classic round nose, a design notorious for deflecting rather than penetrating. A 10mm would give you only the same power level as a .357 mag but with a bullet that I think likely to be much less effective on bear. The .44sp I suggest should be way better than either the 357mg or 10mm. I am suspicious about whether the 10mm is adequate to reliably penetrate the head of a charging bear instead of bouncing off like the round nose it resembles. And just today I happen to see a trial that suggests my suspicions are warranted.
The problem with stopping an attacking bear is you must hit it in the brain to get instant incapacitation. Anything else other than a spine shot, which is far chancier to do, might be lethal, but not lethal fast enough. It would take several seconds for the bear to bleed out even if you destroyed his heart. Plenty of time for the bear to crush your skull or neck with one bite or remove your throat or face with one swat. So you need to hit bear in the brain. Essentially between the eyes. Problem is, the grizzly bear's skull in that area is 2 - 3 inches thick or more. Difficult to penetrate. Worse yet, the area is sloped to about 30 degrees. This greatly encourages round nose bullets to deflect off the bone and just make a superficial wound in bear's skin. You will read over and over that bears can be killed with a 22, a 9mm, etc. Well, its easy to kill a bear with a shot into the head from the side, such as when you are hunting bear or harvesting a treed bear. The skull on the side is much thinner and not sloped.
So we really care about penetrating when we test potential bear loads. And there are many calibers and loads that get tested as to how much wood, water, or meat they can penetrate. The problem is, the targets all are presented with the surface perpendicular to the bullet path. This measures how well the bullet penetrates but not how well it penetrates a 30 degree sloped surface. Often the tests are also done with HPs or JHP or JSP. Even with .44mag these bullet styles are not only shaped more like a round nose, they also may open up and fail to penetrate.
In the test below, the tester uses two ceramic tiles and three layers of plywood arranged at 30 degrees to represent the grizzly bear skull. It's only about half an inch of ceramic and maybe an inch of wood. Way less serious than grizzly skull. Maybe its more like a black bear skull. But its still interesting and meaningful. The semiautomatic bullets were metal jacketed. None of them including the 10mm, even penetrated into the wood. They shattered the two ceramic tiles and bounced off.
Then the guy tried a .500 bear load. It blew through ceramic and plywood. No surprise. So would an atom bomb. Big deal. What we needed was a test of true bear loads in .357 mag, 44sp, .45, .44 mag, and .454 Casull. Hot hand loads in .44sp and .45 are famous among the old timers as stoppers of bear and boar (which also has a thick sloped skull). Based on that I would predict that true bear loads of all the revolver rounds would slam through the test target. Except maybe the .357. However, we need somebody to try it. Maybe just with 6" of pine boards. I don't think the ceramic helped. And by the time a bullet goes through 6 boards its likely to vear off and exit boards so that more boards won't help. As it stands, what we have is a relatively simple test that all the semiautomatic loads failed. That is, the semiautomatic bullets, including the 10mm, which look so much like round nosed loads, seem to act a whole lot like round nosed loads.
Here's the link:
This is wishful thinking based on politicized studies with predetermined outcomes.While ballistics discussions are fun, the wet dishrag to be thrown into the discussion is the overwhelming encounter evidence that shows Bear Spray as far more effective than firearm deployment toward a favorable outcome.
Packing both is the best practice.
Not if that "favorable outcome" is a filled bear tag.Spray as far more effective than firearm deployment toward a favorable outcome.
Good advise.Glock G20. Ive run into many, many bears in Colorado and Idaho. Bean charged a couple times.
One thing people don't consider about guns are their usee as a noise maker. I have a policy that if I see a black bear and it isn't running the other way within 5 seconds, Im shooting into a tree next to it. Black beears should be scared of you....period. So if it's not, mitigate the situation before it has a remote chance of escalating by scaring it with the gun. I don't think Ive ever had a bear stick around for more than two warning shots.
For as cheap as those damn little guns were back then they were quite well made. I bought one of the "Target" models. Had large oversize grips and 4inch tube with adj sights. After trying it out had a Smith shorten the tube and keep the adj sight. Then put Pachmayr compact grips on it. Started rolling some rounds with 200gr LSW loaded to "warm". Worked so damn well I ended up buying 2 more. Used to see them a lot in pawn shops back then and few seemed to want them. All of them I bought looked like they had been shot very little if at all. Lot of people must have bought them back then and never really used them. By the time I had the 3d one and was back at the Smith he laughed and said "you again?"Yep, there's some good rounds, especially from the smaller manufacturers. You have to know what you're flinging. Oh, I had a bulldog too, 3" stainless hammerless back in Montana too.. I used that same 320gr SWC with an obscene (I repent) amount of Red Dot.. lesson learned but it was to be expected and lasted surprisingly long all things considered.
Bear spray more effective? That is blatant nonsense. Lord have mussy!