Rattle can painting

[nwslopoke]

I've rattle canned a few ARs since 2016 with Rustoleum and they've held up well. I'm looking to rattle can a Magpul Hunter polymer frame and don't think Rustoleum or Krylon is the way to go. Anyone work on big polymer stocks?

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[JTK1791]

Ive used both on polymer and they hold up decent. If you want someting stronger though theres Wheeler cerama-coat, but it is bake on so read instructions carefully so that you dont melt or warp it

 

[Lazyfaire]

Best part about rattle can paint is that it can be removed (usually w/ brake fluid and a rag). I buy mine at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. They have a camo paint that is flat in sheen. I usually use black, gray & white. Have not found a desert tan or a flat green that I like though. Bottom layer is black and then the others in a spray-over. I use a piece of laundry bag for the very light spray-overs.

Have also used an ODG set up with a black tiger strip effect that works too.

 

[TTSX]

Just pick one that says "wood, metal, plastic" on the front, maybe one that's got the primer included. If you're buying name brand products, they'll have what you want. FWIW, I have Rust-Oleum flat "camo" on one of my ARs including the plastic Magpul stock and it's doing a ok

 

[Member 53328]

Krylon is what I use on everything. From pistols to AR15s to bolt guns.

 

[thorborg]

Anyone tried Hammerite?? (along with a good primer of coarse)
I have an old single shot shot 12ga I acquired many years ago whose stock had been driven over on a gravel road splintering it considerably. after much pinning, soaking in super glue, and some JB Weld it was strong enough to be functional but looks too terrible to keep the wood showing. Since its been soaked in superglue, I don't think woods transient qualities from moisture is an issue. Anyway I have used Hammerite on a couple old tool boxes that looked fine and seemed to be holding up, though they are not wood, my main concern was if it would stand up to gun cleaning.
I thought the dark green, textured as it is, might be a fun truck gun.
All the parts have been de rusted, spiffied up and sitting in oil some time ago but I still have to make a new tank so I can boil the barrel to blue it. at my rate, that could take a while.

Any opines or experience on Hammerite's ability to deal with Hops #9 and the like?
I guess I could try some on one of the tool boxes.

 

[nwslopoke]

Thanks for the response. It's pretty much what I believed but had more experience and success with metal parts.

 

[ma96782]

Assuming you want it camouflaged.
If it starts to wear.....well, it will look more "Tier One". LOL.

Aloha, Mark

 

[Prefontaine]

I've used a mix of Krylon and Rustoleum for my projects and have gone from one to the other only for color preference. Never really noticed one or the other lasting longer or having more/less protection. Both last really well on plastic and kydex. I just have to be more careful with cleaning solvents than with unpainted guns.

 

[AshWilliams]

I've used a mix of Krylon and Rustoleum for my projects and have gone from one to the other only for color preference. Never really noticed one or the other lasting longer or having more/less protection. Both last really well on plastic and kydex. I just have to be more careful with cleaning solvents than with unpainted guns.

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That looks fantastic. Are you using stencils?

 

[Oro]

If you want something tougher than Rustoleum, you can look at Alumahyde. It is a single stage epoxy that air-cures to a very tough finish over time.

It is significantly enough better than typical rattle can paints, and so much cheaper and easier to apply than Cerakote, that it is my 1st choice finish for knock-around guns, tools, etc.

If you want to do camo, just use it as the base coat and then cheaper paints over it as accent, no need to buy four cans of it if that is the goal.

 

[asiparks]

Krylon "super flat" Camo paint- I've had it on a few guns, polymer stocked MSARs and B&C stocks+ ARs and it's held up very well....

 

[nwslopoke]

Assuming you want it camouflaged.
If it starts to wear.....well, it will look more "Tier One". LOL.

Aloha, Mark

Not necessarily traditional camo. This one is a Grey I don't particularly care for. Not sure if I'll paint the exposed barrel or not. Nothing to lose really. Was more concerned about the durability on the polymer/plastic

I already have 3 ARs that are on the original rattle can. None are a work of art. Just basic backyard jobs. The ones I like stay black. I have a 20" class PSA I can't bring myself to spray.

 

[RobMa]

Aluma Hyde will work great on polyurethane, plastic or other types of synthetic furniture. It doesn't work worth a damn on aluminum itself or any types of metal, just speaking from personal experience.

 

[Oro]

Aluma Hyde will work great on polyurethane, plastic or other types of synthetic furniture. It doesn't work worth a damn on aluminum itself or any types of metal, just speaking from personal experience.

I have used Alumahyde with great results over aluminum (anodized and bare) as well as various other steel - carbon and stainless. If it's prepped correctly and allowed to cure, it's no different on either substrate. It was developed for metals originally.

It's just as tough on plastics and fiberglass as it is on metals - no difference in the adhesion and surface hardness. I've done on average three items w/Alumahyde per year for the last 10 to 12 years, so have had a chance to get to know it. It's not forgiving of mistakes and picky about application. But done right, it's excellent.

 

[Prefontaine]

I have used Alumahyde with great results over aluminum (anodized and bare) as well as various other steel - carbon and stainless. If it's prepped correctly and allowed to cure, it's no different on either substrate. It was developed for metals originally.

It's just as tough on plastics and fiberglass as it is on metals - no difference in the adhesion and surface hardness. I've done on average three items w/Alumahyde per year for the last 10 to 12 years, so have had a chance to get to know it. It's not forgiving of mistakes and picky about application. But done right, it's excellent.

Alumahyde is great stuff. I've used it on a couple of bolt guns.

 

[Prefontaine]

That looks fantastic. Are you using stencils?

Thanks! I use a couple of different sized net patterns from a laundry bag, trunk cargo net, net bag that had oranges in it (lol). I did use a stencil from Amazon (taped off the parts I didn't want) and used them here and there.

 

[Oro]

Thanks! I use a couple of different sized net patterns from a laundry bag, trunk cargo net, net bag that had oranges in it (lol). I did use a stencil from Amazon (taped off the parts I didn't want) and used them here and there.

Those camo patterns do look really nice. I haven't done any patterns like that (yet), but I've looked at quite A LOT to get ideas, and yours are very well done. Nice inspiration.

What kind of wrap/tape is that on the scope? I may try something like that.

 

[Prefontaine]

Those camo patterns do look really nice. I haven't done any patterns like that (yet), but I've looked at quite A LOT to get ideas, and yours are very well done. Nice inspiration.

What kind of wrap/tape is that on the scope? I may try something like that.

It's called Camo Form from GearAid. There are other brands on Amazon, but this is the OG. Much better than the others.

 

[Oro]

It's called Camo Form from GearAid. There are other brands on Amazon, but this is the OG. Much better than the others.

Good to know, thanks. I use GearAid repair products and keep them on hand - a trusted brand. Did not know about this product. Glad you posted your pics to further the discussion.