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Krylon "works"...in the short term....it wears off both with use and cleaning....
Solvent , oils , sweat and the like are not your friends for your paint finish.
Andy

Edit to add...
We used krylon at times on our M16A2's , CAR-15's , M4's and the like...
So my experiences with the paint job was in a harsh and hostile environment ....
Maybe you will have better luck...:D
Andy
 
It's all in the prep. And it will scratch, just like most surfaces. So does cerakote, but not as easily. I have a hunting rifle that I rattle canned, and so far it has held up great.

Again, it's all in the prep. If done right, it should hold up as well as the paint on a car.
 
Please don't do this if you plan to selling it in the future. It's a pain to remove from all the cracks and crevises. I don't paint mine with the exception of one because I bought an upper that was already cerekoted a tan color. Since this was to be my Western Oregon 6.8SPC carbine I was fine with it so I went and got the Krylon Camo colors and I used leaves and branches as stencils and sprayed it. According to the colors of the areas, I like to hunt. Came out really good. I have to be extra careful setting it down in the woods so I won't lose it as it blends in very well.

It has held up extremely well except where my face sits on the stock the paint wore off. I think had I sanded it and roughed up the surface it would have lasted longer but it really does not matter as it is a single black area that is usually is facing me as I carry it. As others said do not use chemicals on it.
 
Krylon will come off if you spray it with aerosol carb cleaner, but yeah, those cracks and crevices will be a PITA to remove.
 
YbKpks9l.jpg

We could hope it's long lasting.:s0060:
 
The Ruger M77 was done by me in 1998 or so. So far, so good. There is some slight rubbing off on the grip, but since the base stock is black, you really don't notice it. The AR10 below was just done a couple of months ago.

IMG_20200409_081734049.jpg
 
will not hold up as well as paint on a car!! automotive paint is different. You need to clean off any oils. Then scuff sand the area being painted. With 150 or 220. Use a dark primer and spray in thin coats and build up. Let dry ample time between coats.
 
If you're going the rattle can route I would suggest their hi-temp engine block paint. Do several light coats and dry each coat under a painters lamp or at least a 150-200 watt bulb, which you can find at home depot(along with the paint). You will get better results than with standard spray paint.
 
Serious answer.

Use Aervoe Camo paint if you want it to last. Clean parts multiple times with non chlorinated brake cleaner and alcohol.

Apply heat or allow to dry for a week or longer before handling.

Won't last like Ceracoat but it will last through years and years of weekend use.
 
I can't say I'd care too much about the durability of krylon. Any rifle that I deemed krylon worthy, is a rifle that I wasn't interested in maintaining salability. Basically, if I decided to rattle can a rifle, I'd only be caring about the functionality of the camo, which blemishes in the paint job wouldn't alter. Or I could easily touch up.

A rifle that I wanted to keep pristine, wouldn't come 10 feet from krylon.
 
I redid my abused 10/22 from childhood with spray paint but I used a two part epoxy spray clearcoat over it. Solvents have no effect on it all.

There's a container inside the can and when you break it and shake to mix, you have something like 24 hours before it turns to a can of rock. Also, you know it's the good stuff: "This product can expose you to chemicals which is [are] known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm."


That particular one is matte but if glossy is your thing, it comes in that flavor too.
 

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