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Of course the A2 is easy... Really any lower and fixed carry handle upper works. Its the A1 that requires the specific lower and upper. :(
Sarco had the A1 Grade 1 kits for $500 without the barrel and lower but it had the furniture and upper... seems out of stock at the moment unfortunately :confused:
A4 build should be relatively simple. A2 simple as well if you can find the A2 fixed carry handle. I am hankering for a retro 16" CAR-15 with either A1 or A2 uppee and the old style simple collapsible stock as opposed to the more common M4 style..
Something similar if not exactly like this.

268210a0-b0f2-11de-8ed9-001cc4c03286.preview-620.jpg
 
Sarco had the A1 Grade 1 kits for $500 without the barrel and lower but it had the furniture and upper... seems out of stock at the moment unfortunately :confused:
A4 build should be relatively simple. A2 simple as well if you can find the A2 fixed carry handle. I am hankering for a retro 16" CAR-15 with either A1 or A2 uppee and the old style simple collapsible stock as opposed to the more common M4 style..
Something similar if not exactly like this.

View attachment 372549
Well, when I got the cash nobody has it. When I ain't got a dime to my name, everyone's got it.
 
@CamoDeafie Yeah, that stock is the nasty part--it's also what's needed for a Canadian build. I'll see how many of my notes got moved over to the spare laptop and see if I can find you some... I know Leapers has one but it's only for Commercial tubes. You might also check Model 1 Sales or Tony's Customs.
 
+1 on Model 1 Sales. Have built three of their kits, love them all. The only thing they don't have for Andy's build is green triangular handguards. Those are available if you do some searching.

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ITS DONE!!!! My 300bo pistol is done!:s0115:
... well mostly. It's now shootable. I still need an AFG, and maybe an optic. Also considering a midnight bronze, or battleworn Ceracoat.
So glad I went with the 8.3" BA hansen Barrel, any longer, and it wouldn't look very pistol like.

IMG_2151.JPG IMG_2159.JPG IMG_2160.JPG IMG_2162.JPG IMG_2163.JPG
I was able to build this whole thing out of leftover parts and by horse trading stuff I've had for a long time. The only things that I paid for with non "gun money" was the $18.99 to EBay for the Blast Can, and the $9.99 x2 for the sig SB15s... One of which helped fund the build.

V7 forged upper/lower
Centurion CMR 9.5" rail
Ballistics Advantage Hansen 8.3" 300BO
Cheap Krink blast can(still looking for a better option)
Sig SB15 & KAK super sig tube
Fortis Hammer charge handle
-Red "jewelry":
Seeking precision billet Trigger Guard, and ambi selector
Strike Ind. mag release, Forward assist, and bolt catch
Magpul MOE BUIS
Spikes Grip

Still to come:
AFG... either magpul, stark, or fortis
Red dot
Quality Muzzle can(Troy Claymore?)
Cerakote
 
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Stupid question: is it normal to have to hammer the takedown pins in at first assembly, and if so how many cycles does it usually take to get 'em to tool-free? Right now these pins are so tight I'm tempted to either re-drill the rear TD p;in hole or completely omit the TD pin detent...
 
Stupid question: is it normal to have to hammer the takedown pins in at first assembly, and if so how many cycles does it usually take to get 'em to tool-free? Right now these pins are so tight I'm tempted to either re-drill the rear TD p;in hole or completely omit the TD pin detent...
Does it go in easy without the detent?
I've had to tap them in before... but after squirting some "Gator Snot" (Gators Custom Guns secret recipe lube) and working it a bit it lossens right up.
I'd try polishing the pin or maybe the very tip of the detent before re drilling your pin hole. $2 or so vs a whole lower.
 
Last Edited:
Stupid question: is it normal to have to hammer the takedown pins in at first assembly, and if so how many cycles does it usually take to get 'em to tool-free? Right now these pins are so tight I'm tempted to either re-drill the rear TD p;in hole or completely omit the TD pin detent...
I have had a few that are sticky like that. I usually just lube them up real well and they seem to break in pretty quickly.
 
Does it go in easy without the detent?
I've had to tap them in before... but after squirting some "Gator Snot" (Gators Custom Guns secret recipe lube) and working it a bit it lossens right up.
I'd try polishing the pin or maybe the very tip of the detent before re drilling your pin hole. $2 or so vs a whole lower.
Haven't put detents or anything else in, this is just dry fitting. Maybe I should smear in some Froglube...

I should note that the machined lower isn't the one I'm building on, the one I'm using for the build I'm waiting for some new top plates.
 
Latest pass, with a fresh blank and a prop (Altoids tin) holding the flash-can in position relative to the whole enchilada... buffer assembly is still about 1.3" off from where it will be once I get the LAW sidefolder on--at this point, if I went back to the Home Depot Orange "restricted to .22LR" lower I would only need barrel and BCG for a functional pistol, the rest is just fine-tuning for operational needs.
20170706_224139_zpsk3t70mlb.jpg
 

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