Pin and weldable suppressor?

milwaukieman · Dec 16, 2014

Looking at the Griffin Armament Spartan 3, which is pre-drilled for pinning and welding. Anyone know of other comparable suppressors?

308 · Dec 16, 2014

Ask about this over at barfKom and the kiddies will pile on and explain how stupid you are for even considering the idea of permanently attaching your suppressor

spectra · Dec 16, 2014

308 said:
Ask about this over at barfKom and the kiddies will pile on and explain how stupid you are for even considering the idea of permanently attaching your suppressor

I have a can that is welded on

At the time it was the only way to get what I wanted. Liberty does it all the time on there uppers.

milwaukieman · Dec 16, 2014

308 said:
Ask about this over at barfKom and the kiddies will pile on and explain how stupid you are for even considering the idea of permanently attaching your suppressor

What are the chances you could give a quick synopsis of their reasons?

jbett98 · Dec 16, 2014

Is the permanently pin & brazed suppressor a way to avoid paying for an SBR tax stamp?

SCARed · Dec 16, 2014

You could also get a quick detach can and get it welded to the mount which is welded to the barrel.

spectra · Dec 16, 2014

Yes when I purchased mine SBR was not an option in WA. Mine is a 8 inch barrel with a can to make it about 17 inchs over all. I sent in all the parts and Liberty did all the work.

308 · Dec 17, 2014

milwaukieman said:
What are the chances you could give a quick synopsis of their reasons?

1) Risk of baffle strike if not attached correctly
2) Limits the use of the suppressor to one firearm
3) They didn't like the idea
4) Kiddies wanted approval of their pack leader, so disparagement of the OP was commenced

Edited...
5) They said one could get a cleaning patch stuck in a baffle (translation: TEOTWAWKI)

Nwcid · Dec 17, 2014

Why would you need a "pre-drilled" one?

Any company that is going to do the work is still going to have to drill anyhow, why can't they just do it all at once, that way it lines up perfect?

I am not going to knock the pinned idea, I actually have one gun like that. But in most cases it does not make a lot of sense.

milwaukieman · Dec 17, 2014

Nwcid said:
Why would you need a "pre-drilled" one?

Any company that is going to do the work is still going to have to drill anyhow, why can't they just do it all at once, that way it lines up perfect?

I am not going to knock the pinned idea, I actually have one gun like that. But in most cases it does not make a lot of sense.

I don't need a pre-drilled one, sorry I realize I didn't clarify that. If I do this I would prefer to have a thread on instead of having a QD doubled welded. What I DO need is a thread on with plenty of room to pin it, and I haven't seen any other than the Spartan.

SCARed · Dec 17, 2014

You don't need to actually pin it. You could just weld it on. Before WA changed their laws I was contemplating doing the same thing. IIRC there isn't a requirement to actually pin it, it just needs to be permanent. Pinning and welding is just the preferred method. So I believe you can just weld it.
It has been a while since I looked into it, so maybe someone can prove me wrong.

308 · Dec 17, 2014

SCARed said:
You don't need to actually pin it. You could just weld it on. Before WA changed their laws I was contemplating doing the same thing. IIRC there isn't a req

Something worth considering is the risk of the welds warping the barrel enough to cause a baffle strike. I am not dogmatic in my belief that I would happen, only that it could

spectra · Dec 17, 2014

Mine is welded and have had no issues. And as far as getting a patch stuck in it good luck.... I can unscrew the can and pull it apart and get right into the monocore.

308 · Dec 17, 2014

spectra said:
Mine is welded and have had no issues. And as far as getting a patch stuck in it good luck.... I can unscrew the can and pull it apart and get right into the monocore.

spectra, how was yours welded?
I've got a TROS suppressor and it is fully welded....the suppressor (does not come apart)

Nwcid · Dec 17, 2014

http://www.atf.gov/press/releases/2006/04/042106-openletter-ffl-child-safety-locks.html

The ATF procedure for measuring barrel length is to measure from the closed bolt (or breech-face) to the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device. Permanent methods of attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam welding, high-temperature (1100°F) silver soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over. Barrels are measured by inserting a dowel rod into the barrel until the rod stops against the bolt or breech-face. The rod is then marked at the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device, withdrawn from the barrel, and measured.

spectra · Dec 17, 2014

308 said:
spectra, how was yours welded?
I've got a TROS suppressor and it is fully welded....the suppressor (does not come apart)

The monocore is welded to the barrel and not sure how have not even really looked at it

But the outer sleeve on the can comes off so I have a way to get to the inside.

I will take a few pics of it tomorrow and post them up

spectra · Dec 17, 2014

Nwcid said:
http://www.atf.gov/press/releases/2006/04/042106-openletter-ffl-child-safety-locks.html

The ATF procedure for measuring barrel length is to measure from the closed bolt (or breech-face) to the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device. Permanent methods of attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam welding, high-temperature (1100°F) silver soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over. Barrels are measured by inserting a dowel rod into the barrel until the rod stops against the bolt or breech-face. The rod is then marked at the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device, withdrawn from the barrel, and measured.

Mine is 17 inches or more have not actually measured it yet.

Member 5605 · Jan 16, 2015

So this bring into play what I just did.

I had a pistol configured.

I was going to put a can on it, after I had converted it to a SBR. I mean a pistol is so awkward to shoot accurately.

Since my can is not made, and I didn't want to pay ANOTHER stamp fee and was going to make my can anyway out of some stuff I had I did this with the 10.5" barrel.

My shroud is 9" long. That gave me a total of 10.5+9 (minus 1/2" overlap), and 18.5OAL
Shroud connected to adapter, adapter threaded to barrel. Required two pinnings. One to pin shroud to adapter as seen, please note that the welds have not been done yet. There is no stock on it until the welds are done according to all ATF rules.

then pin that to barrel:
With shroud screwed down and indexed to where I wanted it to be I used a bit stop to drill .06" into the barrel using the hole drilled in the adapter as the guide. I bought some set screws from Home Depot, a threading kit for 4mm (4x.07 threads) and screwed them down tight using red LocTite as a temp to make sure they stayed where I placed them before the welds. I plan though to go back to HD and get a couple shorter selections of set screws so I can stack them up one after another inside the hole that sets it to the barrel so when welded there is no gap, you know if the barrel gets hot and cold the set screw backing it's self out. I don't want that to happen.

Once form 1 is approved I can stuff the insides, drill holes and serial number the shroud. By definition though from what I gather if I'm correct is that if I decide to sell the can or upper it's all going to go as one unit. They are one. A permanent mount as per the ATF.

So here is how it sits now. Yes I do stand on the street holding that sign. Most people think I'm wanting something and don't even look over. Sad really but I digress.

Point: Once welds are made and pins are blinded a stock can go on as this will have a permanently affixed can to a rifle and be 18.5" barrel length.

The $200 I saved from making it a SBR will go towards making ANOTHER can for the other rifle that's removable.