Options to protect my gun from elements

[ma96782]

Aloha, Mark

PS.......



Imagine that....for ammo too.

 

[nammac]

View attachment 1484078

Aloha, Mark

PS.......
View attachment 1484080


Imagine that....for ammo too.

View attachment 1484081

That's one way of keeping your revolver and ammo "safe"…

 

[Yarome]

Imagine that....for ammo too.

View attachment 1484081

Sure sure. If your goal is to shoot duds....

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Stainless steel will rust....
A light coating of RIG gun grease will prevent rust.
Andy

 

[solv3nt]

Stainless steel will rust....
A light coating of RIG gun grease will prevent rust.
Andy

Instructions unclear, did the dunk.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Instructions unclear, did the dunk.

Well then...you ain't gotta worry 'bout rust at least....
Andy

 

[Yarome]

Instructions unclear, did the dunk.

You should be fine against the elements, but you might have some explaining to do about the perpetual "wet spot" on the front of your trousers!

 

[Nosferatu]

You should be fine against the elements, but you might have some explaining to do about the perpetual "wet spot" on the front of your trousers!

And the back of your huntin' buddys'!

 

[Flopsweat]

This may be unpopular because some people think that WD-40 is poison for guns. It's not a great gun lube, but what it is unsurpassed at is driving out water. I carry a small can of it anytime I'm in wet weather with a gun. Whether I dunk my shotgun in a lake or drop my carry piece in a puddle, a quick wipe down and then a serious hosing with WD-40 will remove essentially all of the water from most guns immediately without having to disassemble them. All I have to do is wipe off the excess and the gun will be functional for the rest of the day. Of course when I get home, I'll thoroughly clean the gun again.

For gun lube, most guns that sit for long periods in my safe get coated in Eezox because I've seen it beat the competition in independent rust protection tests. I have not tested it against chrome, stainless or blued finishes, as I have always used a treated cloth on them.

Anything I carry gets very lightly coated in CLP. The only issues I've ever had with that is sweat rusting the hip side grip screw on a couple of guns. I just replace the screw every few years.

 

[Phillyfan]

Yeah, instant rust like that doesn't sound right for stainless. My stainless super redhawk has been soaked I don't know how many times and nothing like that. Must be more to the story cause that's just odd sounding. Interesting idea bout the Rain X, by the way.

Well, it was mostly on the cylinder with the engraving. Thinking it wasn't treated with anything after it was done.

 

[Mike_M57]

Well, it was mostly on the cylinder with the engraving. Thinking it wasn't treated with anything after it was done.

Not an SME, but I worked for a while at a metal-finishing shop that did shot-peening (among other things) of stainless-steel aircraft parts for Boeing. All stainless-steel parts required passivation after being shot peened/abrasive-media cleaned to remove any oxides that would cause rust.

Steel tools were used to do the engraving on your firearm. I believe the steel left behind particles of iron that are rusting. Just cleaning/oiling/waxing/etc. may not be enough to keep it from rusting again.

If it were mine, I'd strip it down and do a citric-acid passivation. But that's just me.

 

[Phillyfan]

Not an SME, but I worked for a while at a metal-finishing shop that did shot-peening (among other things) of stainless-steel aircraft parts for Boeing. All stainless-steel parts required passivation after being shot peened/abrasive-media cleaned to remove any oxides that would cause rust.

Steel tools were used to do the engraving on your firearm. I believe the steel left behind particles of iron that are rusting. Just cleaning/oiling/waxing/etc. may not be enough to keep it from rusting again.

If it were mine, I'd strip it down and do a citric-acid passivation. But that's just me.

Thanks, that may very well be the case

 

[MikeInOr]

stainless rusting that quickly?

Get it cleaned up and lubed, once its clean wipe on some Pledge furniture spray or maybe some RainX windshield wax and it should prevent any moisture trapped in the holster from rusting the metal, plus any rain will bead up and roll off.

Is your holster leather? How old is it?

I use Johnsons paste on a lot of my machinery tops to keep rust from forming and have used it on guns because I have it handy. I would guess Pledge or Rain-X would be similar in that they leave a coating on the surface that doesn't rub off without some effort or solvent. I would use a wax type product over a gun oil, CLP type product as I would expect it would stay on the metal considerably longer with typical handling of the gun.

Overnight does seem like an incredibly short time for rust to start forming. Though there are many different grades of stainless steel. Some are more rust resistant, some are stronger and others are harder. No telling which stainless steel the cylinder is made out of.

Are the sights that rusted also stainless steel? Or are they good old carbon steel?