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Hey guys/gals,

Does anyone have recommendations for places that can mount an optic on my bolt action rifle somewhere in Portland area? Any personal accounts/experiences using said place would be well appreciated too.

I have a Savage 10FP (.308) and was thinking about mounting a Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50mm on it (haven't bought the optic or rings yet). Also, does anyone have any recommendations on what rings I should use?

Thanks ahead of time for all the help!
 
Already drilled / tapped, right??

If so, I've alway mounted my own optics, put up a piece of butcher paper / target and walked in the POA / POI.

Get all your gear together, post up a request and someone here will take you to Tri-County and help you put it together and sight it in. :s0155:
 
Not sure if you have a Sportsman's Warehouse down there but if you do they will mount and boresite for free if you buy the rings from them.
I did this with the kid's 22 and was pleased :s0155:
 
Warne bases and rings. Excellent product and I've yet to remove a scope from Warne rings and have any marks on the scope. Warne holds their tolerances extremely tight. Warne rings are a little tricky to install. For a first timer a second set of hands will come in handy.

Learn to mount a scope and bore sight yourself. It is very easy. Various ways to get the reticule level but I usually just align the vertical of the crosshair with the bore by eyeballing it. Don't over-tighten the rings or you can distort the tube of the scope. Best if you have an inch pounds torque wrench but not required. Use Loctite on the base screws so they don't back out. (I don't use Loctite on the ring screws.)

After the rings are tight and you have the reticule level, remove the bolt and line the bore up with an object about 25 yards away by looking through the bore. I've used a yellow softball before, but also have used a flower in the yard or the tail light of my truck as the object. The rifle has to be held very steady while doing this...now click the turrets until the cross hairs line up on the object you have the bore lined up on. This should get you on an 8 1/2 X 11 sheet of paper at 50 yards. If you have your doubts, use a bigger piece of paper.

I can the dial the scope in with 2 or 3 shots. Shoot one round on the paper. Holding the rifle perfectly steady on your point of aim, click your crosshairs until they line up on the first bullet hole. Your next shot should be very close to your point of aim.

I've seen gun shops charge $25 for mounting and bore sight services.
 
OK
#1 go to 40 mm objective in a better quality glass/light transmission range. The scope will mount lower than a 50mm, same light transmission and you will have FAR Fewer headaches getting a good sight picture, (been down the 50mm route, it's a bummer under $2800)!
#2
Warne is as good as any MFG. I use them as well as some out of towners. Stay with the local MFGs! Your rings don't Have to be the Super Swartzenyeager Tactical in a 308win (unless you wanna migrate your scope/rings to a 338).
Leupold and Warne customer service will be happy to offer you their product that fits your needs all you gotta do is hit their web site, maybe call the CS #
Leupold makes rings as well!
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, I didn't know about any of them and will be sure to look them up and see what will work best for me. I had never heard of Warne before, but it sounds like they produce quality stuff.
 
You can walk into Warne Scope Mounts and buy right off the shelf. They are a great company and make a top notch product.
If you mount the rings and optics yourself, I highly recommend that you use a small inch pound torque wrench.
That way the fasteners are set at an equal torque.
Your welcome to use mine when your ready to set up the rifle.



9500 SW Tualatin Road
Tualatin, OR 97062
1-800-683-5590
503-657-5590
Fax: 503-657-5695
 
Regarding scope height...for a hunting rifle I agree, mount the scope as low as you can get it without the bell touching the barrel. If you plan to shoot off a bench quite a bit AND you wear ear muff style hearing protection, you may want to mount the scope higher so the muffs clear the stock. I've replace low and medium rings with highs lately so that the muffs will clear.
 
Hey guys/gals,

Does anyone have recommendations for places that can mount an optic on my bolt action rifle somewhere in Portland area? Any personal accounts/experiences using said place would be well appreciated too.!
-
my experience from seeing shooters with screwed-up optics mounted for over 30 years of my life on the range. Loose Bases . Sick of seeing people with Loose Rings . Canted Ret. . Not Holding set Zero . blurry unfocused Reticle . Etc . Pounding rounds down range wasting there time ammo and hard earned money and wondering why there rifle wont shoot .

Man dont trust your rig to a retail sporting sales or gun shop guy behind the counter for a A+ especially on mounting your Base. Rings and Glass . You want peace of mind knowing it's GTG for the long run, when your getting on paper & zero. Also getting dialed-up on down range holdovers .
You need Optics and all supporting components set-up proper with eye relief and you also need the Erector & Ret. all plumb to the rifle . Even proper focus your ocular lens . Trust me when I say this, 'Odds are Against you ' that it will be proper going that route.
You also really need to be shown how to do it the right by some who has done it for years and walk you threw it once .

If you Bring it over to my house. I will mount it all up and torque it all down proper to your Rig & your eye ( for nothing/free ) It will be done right .
( If Not ) Please find someone other than a retail gun shop or sporting sales counter sales person .
.
 
Mounting your own scope is not rocket surgery.Just use your finger tips to tighten not your arm and break stuff.
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Your pretty lucky being born the natural touch of feeling that mimic In/lb torque wrench in your finger tips .. ? ,

Also to the OP . this prodigious lack of detail is a prime example of exactly what I am talking about . This is the main mechanical aptitude of most chimpanzees that sit behind the retail sales counter, and that are assembling Optics and there supporting components to the Receivers of bolt rifles of unsuspecting customers everywhere .
.
 
I too seem to have that touch. The little torx wenches that come with scope mounts flex when you hit the correct inch pounds of torque, provided you do it with your fingertips. I've checked it against a torque wrench. Not saying I could teach it to a chimp, but it isn't that hard.
 
Another thing to consider is if you mount the scope yourself, is to clean the screws & ring threads with alcohol and use blue locktite, not the red.
 
To DYI mount. Level your rifle using a rifle vise or bags or both. Level it from the receiver. Then lock it into the vise, verify level. Mount your rings and scope and if the turret is flat level the scope. If done right your reticle should be parallel to the bore.

I then laser sight at 100 and go from there.
 
The best advice here came from those who would NEVER trust a big store to mount a scope (even if "free").

I question a strategy of mounting a scope higher in order that ear protection muffs are accommodated. Cheek-weld is being more and more neglected as an essential factor in proper shooting form conducive to accuracy. (This is not a statement discounting ear protection.) Otter and I run shoulder-to-shoulder otherwise (as usual).

JustShoot might be new to this website, but he ain't wet behind the ears when it comes to mounting optics. Read his stuff at least twice (saves me from repeating it).

There's a minor departure I would talk about: yes, a reticle mounted plumb level with a gun plumb-leveled is a good starting point, and may serve perfectly forever. HOWEVER: we are human. Each shooter may (and probably does) have his own natural cant (and it can vary with shooting position). Since we can't mount bubble-levels on every single gun, and since viewing a bubble level is almost NEVER possible (or thought of) in the hunting field, the only TRUE method of synchronizing scope reticle with bore (and shooter style) is to actually repeatedly shoot at long range (from a field shooting position) with little or no wind, record results (drift), and re-adjust the scope to achieve vertical drop of the bullet with little or no drift. This is nitpicking, I will admit, but not to be ignored.

Best bore-sighting device in the entire world is a distant light bulb (street lamp, etc.) at dark. (It's also the cheapest.)
 
Geez Spitpatch, now I feel like a fat head! Or maybe my beady eyes are set to close together.

Most of my rifles are low recoil and in some cases I shoot free recoil, so didn't even consider the cheek weld. With a .308 a good cheek weld might be more of a consideration than clearance for the muffs. I have a heck of a time with the muffs and a low scope mount though, and coming from someone with tinnitus, I highly recommend using plugs and muffs together to save your ears.
 

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