My reloading/workbench build

[SIG383]

My brother and I got my reloading/workbench built finally! I've got the pics in order for the most part. What do you all think? Thanks. Any suggestions on making things easier would be much appreciated.

Read More

 

[SIG383]

 

[Izzy]

Looks good!

Show us some pics after you get it up & runnin.

 

[SIG383]

I plan on it! Right now, just waiting for the paint to finish curing before I start putting stuff on it. Just finished painting it this morning.

 

[Mikej]

All I see you needing there is MORE LIGHT!

Looks good.

Mike

 

[SIG383]

Was thinking of adding one of those magnifier light things to it too...for precision work

 

[iusmc2002]

Dang man, looks good! Come build me one of those after I move

Only problem I see with it, it isn't dirty yet

 

[SIG383]

Thanks all! After I put the polyurethane clear coat on the worktop, I'll be able to actually use it!! I'm planning on putting some decals down on the top, and sealing them in with the clear. Have to wait till payday to get the poly, I'm broke now, lo!

I think I've put about $300 down for all the materials. Also need to get the stuff for the pegboard so I can make use of that.

 

[deadshot2]

It looks good and I like the use of the "Construction Metal".

I would suggest that you cover the rear and ends with some plywood/particle board. The back to keep stuff from falling off the bottom shelf and the ends to stop any "shear" action. When you operate your press it will have a tendency to cause the square framing to move. These panels will stop it cold. On my bench I have the back and sides fully covered with 3/4" particle board, fastened every 6" with screws. The bench is solid enough to keep the case feeder on my press from swaying any more than about 1/2" when I'm at "full yank" on the press handle. There's nothing more satisfying than a solid loading bench.

BTW, won't the urethane coating dissolve the decals?

Last note, I'd avoid the use of Fluorescent lighting if you plan on using any electronic scales. The interference from them can mess up the stability of some scales. I'd look at some LED lights. Less power consumption, heat, and they don't interfere with electronics.

 

[SIG383]

I like the idea of putting the back and sides on the bottom, thanks for the idea! I spoke with Rustoleum, who makes Prothane. They said if I use the water-based polyurethane, I should be good to go. I was thinking of testing it out on an extra decal with some scrap wood before doing the whole thing, just to be safe. I'll grab another sheet of plywood and some more paint and put that up. Do you think I should go with 3/4" or would something thinner work? Maybe 1/2" plywood? I'll address the lighting once I go with an electronic scale. I couldn't complain on what I got, it was free, lol. Should work for the time being. Again, thank you!

 

[deadshot2]

I like the idea of putting the back and sides on the bottom, thanks for the idea! I spoke with Rustoleum, who makes Prothane. They said if I use the water-based polyurethane, I should be good to go. I was thinking of testing it out on an extra decal with some scrap wood before doing the whole thing, just to be safe. I'll grab another sheet of plywood and some more paint and put that up. Do you think I should go with 3/4" or would something thinner work? Maybe 1/2" plywood? I'll address the lighting once I go with an electronic scale. I couldn't complain on what I got, it was free, lol. Should work for the time being. Again, thank you!

Anything around 1/2" or more will provide the "shear" resistance that you need for stability. I went with 3/4" melamine covered particle board like lots of kitchen cabinets are made of because that's what I used for the cabinet top and bench top. It's a little more expensive but the only thing that needs finishing is the edges.

 

[SIG383]

I'll grab some 1/2" or thicker plywood once I get paid on the first...unless someone has any extra laying around, lol... My son now wants me to build him a workbench that's "his size." I should have enough left over to do that for him. He'll love that! I have plenty of the paint left that I'll be able to paint the plywood to make it all match too.

 

[SIG383]

Work and getting sick got the best of me for a while...

Anywho, I put a few more coats of paint on top, sanding between coats. Then got the decals on. Also put the back and sides on the lower portion, using 1/2in OSB. Just now, I put down the second coat of the clear polyurethane. Once that dries, I'll be putting on at least one more coat...depending on how it turns out.

I still need to wire it for electricity. Plan on putting three, 2-gang boxes on it along the front so I won't be worrying about cords going across the work surface.

 

[deadshot2]

Work and getting sick got the best of me for a while...

Anywho, I put a few more coats of paint on top, sanding between coats. Then got the decals on. Also put the back and sides on the lower portion, using 1/2in OSB. Just now, I put down the second coat of the clear polyurethane. Once that dries, I'll be putting on at least one more coat...depending on how it turns out.

I still need to wire it for electricity. Plan on putting three, 2-gang boxes on it along the front so I won't be worrying about cords going across the work surface.

Here's the couple pics I've added. These are before I put the clear down over the decals. Once everything is done, It will all be posted up.

As you progress on this project, keep an eye out for any "remodels" that are going on in yous, or surrounding neighborhoods. I've found a lot of cabinets that are put out on the curb with "Free" signs on them. I ended up with three double door wall cabinets with cheap white melamine finish at no charge. Great for storage. Attached to back support on bench, wall, or stacked into a tall cabinet config,, the possibilities are endless. Free is good so keep you eyes open. Some thick paint can cover up the flaws if they're slightly damaged.

 

[lamrith]

Nice build!!

I am curious the corner and joint brackets I see did you buy a Workbench kit, or are those some sort of std metal framing items?

 

[coop44]

Nice build!!

I am curious the corner and joint brackets I see did you buy a Workbench kit, or are those some sort of std metal framing items?

go to home depot, in with the framing brackets from simpson you will find the kit. comes with screws, you supply the wood.

 

[Morpheus]

This looks really nice.

So for all of us copy cats, would you be able to give us all a parts list break down? Because I have been putting off building myself a good reloading bench, but this has inspired me to build one already.

 

[rrojohnso]

Looks like you finished what I started in my own garage, much better to boot! You've got me thinking about my set up now. Nice job.

 

[SIG383]

I will work on putting together a list of everything. Thanks for the compliments! I honestly don't know how much everything costs...not sure if I really want to know, lol! But hey, it's how I wanted it, so that's all that really matters!

This looks really nice.

So for all of us copy cats, would you be able to give us all a parts list break down? Because I have been putting off building myself a good reloading bench, but this has inspired me to build one already.

 

[deadshot2]

I honestly don't know how much everything costs...not sure if I really want to know, lol! But hey, it's how I wanted it, so that's all that really matters!

Absolutely. And the best answer for a wife when she asks "How Much?" is to just say "around a hundred or so".

I built the bench from plans circulated for years by the reloading manufacturers association. Just materials alone were in the $300 range, maybe more. Just like you, if you get exactly what you want, it fits your needs, then cost just is what it is. Sure beats trying to go cheap and always having to put up with the shortcomings that usually go with cutting corners.