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i use frog lube now,mainly because of the harsh chemicals are in solvents and other lubricants.but i still use CLP when i have some serious cleaning. on the other hand i use a mixture of ATF and WD-40 for my 1919 browning and it works great.course that was an old armorers recipe.

Indeed, the steel box beltfeds love atf-40, I use ZEP nowadays on all my M37, 1917, 1919 and M2hb/m3 builds. steel plate slush boxes are a different beast entirely.

Then again, to properly store/use/service an m2 requires a gallon of juice anyway you cut it.
 
What I do to my rifles that shoot copper skinned bullets
Receiver-action area wash with lighter fluid and scrub with ex-wife's toothbrush.
wipe dry with a clean patch or rag. Lube points get a tiny drop of lube.
Bolt gets the same treatment.
Barrel (including chamber)
wash with bore mop soaked in lighter fluid.
brush with bronze bore brush.
wash with bore mop soaked in Hoppe's #9
set in a corner, muzzle down, on a rag for 3 days.
After 3 days, wash with bore mop soaked in lighter fluid.
Will come out scummy green (dissolved copper) wash again till clean.
Repeat until very little green comes out.
Lube and wipe down all metal parts with CLP, gun oil, 3-in-one oil, etc.
 
WD-40? ouch! More solvent than lube. Once you use it, use it reguarly and often but i wouldn't store any of my tools more than a few weeks without removing it and applying a lube/rust preventitive.
 
OP asked how a single product can clean, lubricate, and protect all in one - if you go to the automotive world just look at ATF (not the agency, Automatic Transmission Fluid) its a lubricant with a high detergent content to clean. An old mechanics trick from back in the day - if you have a sticky lifter or a bunch of oil sludge in a motor you add a quart or two of ATF to the motor and run it for a while - often cleans up the sludge or unsticks a lifter, then change the oil and all is good.
 
I have quart cans of ww2 rifle grease I have been using for years... And maybe in 50 years I will use it all..

I liked the idea of frog lube until I smelled it and it reminded me of candy cigs and a sickening over powering wintergreen smell.. Then I saw the price... So I'm sticking with my cans of ww2 rifle grease!
 
CLP really is for the lazy. At best it only does a mediocre job, which is one of the rare times the military apparently considers convenience over quality.

I use a combo of M-Pro7 cleaner (Hoppe's elite gun cleaner is basically the same stuff) followed by M-Pro7 LPX oil.
 
Yup, CLP's really are for convenience over actual cleaning. Their lube properties are ok, as it's oil for the most part.

Oils are penetrating by design, their action works under/into the crud buildup in the weapon, hence the 'cleaning' ability, this leaves behind the oil once wiped clean, hence the lube/protection part.

However, as the aforementioned jack of all trades, master of none, this is clearly not the best way to clean anything. An actual cleaner (only a cleaner) will always clean better than any CLP, that's chemistry ;)
I personally like MPro7 cleaner (non petroleum based) and then i (currently) use Froglube to lube/protect, seems very competent.

That last part though, does seem to be a compromise based upon my own comments above. However, i think it's a crap cleaner Vs the lube/protection part. I'd like a nice non petroleum based lube/protectant to replace it if one exists.

Beware of very thin oils, as already mentioned above, WD40 on it's own is not, and never will be suitable for firearms.


Finally, be wary of cleaned metal Vs cleaned crud, if you don't know what that means, please take a little time and read the 'Bore Sight' article that i posted in the Cleaning section of the forums. I think a few people will be surprised at what their favourite cleaner doesn't do.
 
I have been using Seal 1 CLP. I switched from Froglube and am super happy that I did. This stuff is super slick. I threw out all my old products because this one does it all better than the rest. Even on my vintage Colt 1911s.
 
So I read that seal 1 is the original frog lube formula, just gotta make sure you shake it well as the product settles.
 

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