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Lubrication...how does one product do it all...CLP?

Discussion in 'Maintenance & Gunsmithing' started by PeglegJones, Feb 22, 2014.

  1. PeglegJones

    PeglegJones Ferndale,WA Member

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    I know there are many who have used one product for years but can someone explain to me how a product can clean, lubricate and preserve? By definition to clean implies the removal of something, in our case burnt powder and probably copper and or lead. Once the cleaning process is complete we are supposedly left with the original material that the parts are made of so where is the lubrication and preservation? I'm not a chemist or metallurgists so I'm obviously missing something.

    The more I research the more I'm convinced that the cleaning and lubricating and preserving market is like the women's cosmetic market...all the magic lotions & potions & compounds that will do wonders for you!

    I guess I'm just not a fan of one size fits all, one product does all. Can anyone convince me that it is possible for one product to do all? If so, what is it and how does it do all?

    Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk
     
  2. RicInOR

    RicInOR Washington County Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    :eatpop:
     
  3. PeglegJones

    PeglegJones Ferndale,WA Member

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    Excuse me?

    Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk
     
  4. GunRightsCoalition

    GunRightsCoalition Vancouver Well-Known Member 2015 Volunteer 2016 Volunteer

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    Most lightweight lubricants also have some dissolving properties as well to help to dissolve residue and the dissolved residue will be picked up with the cleaning pads or bore snakes. I'm not championing using one product (I use solvent first myself) but rather am just explaining how one product can both clean and lubricate at the same time. Unless you have any really serious buildup I see no reason that CLP by itself would not be adequate. The main problem with solvent is that it must always be followed with lubricant as it not only removes the reside but also removes the lubrication and protection against corrosion.
     
  5. geokoppmann

    geokoppmann Santa Fe, New Mexico / Sand Point, Idaho New Member

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    Have you tried EEZOX Synthetic Lubricant ? I've been using it in Gun Shop since it first came out in the early 80's and if it weren't so expensive I'd use it in my parts washer. It's as good a cleaner as it is a Lubricant. I makes cleaning .22 semi autos a snap and once a Stainless firearm is thoroughly cleaned with it, especially the front of revolver cylinders or in and around forcing cones you can literally clean the gun with a plastic tooth brush.
    Also, for you all in high humidity areas, once you clean your gun with EEZOX you won't have to worry about your fingerprints growing into popcorn rust on metal parts. It cost about $80.xx/gal. but 1oz. needle oilers and 4 oz. pour spout cans are available for under $6.xx. It is also an excellent 'stop rust' after torching up with cold blueing.
     
  6. Stomper

    Stomper Oceania Rising White Is The New Brown Silver Supporter

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    I used Breakfree in the Army on all my issued firearms in environments from Latin American jungles to European winters without any complaints or issues.
     
  7. usagi

    usagi Redmond Well-Known Member

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    CLP is like all season tires. jack of all trades, master of none. all season tires suck in all seasons.

    i prefer to actually clean my firearms with real cleaner, then lube them with real lube. any decent lube will protect if it can displace water.

    in my experience, eezox is a phenomenal protectant, and horrible lubricant.
     
    watermerc and F2CMaDMaXX like this.
  8. Nwcid

    Nwcid Yakima and N of Spokane Well-Known Member

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    I have been using CLP for a long time. I am not sure how it does it, but it does most of the stuff I need and does it well. I have found no good reason to change.
     
  9. BAMCIS

    BAMCIS Eugene Well-Known Member

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    deadhorse_zps26ed72e3.gif
     
  10. geokoppmann

    geokoppmann Santa Fe, New Mexico / Sand Point, Idaho New Member

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    On what experience did you find EEZOX a 'horrible lubricant' ? Have you ever tried it on Thread Taps or Dies; or squeaky door hinges; or vehicle door locks that freeze up in winter cold; or motorcycle Throttle or clutch cables; OR on semi auto rifle gas pistons; or the new polymer frame semi auto pistols ?

    AND, the cartoon below beautifully depicts the age old attempts to convince some in discussions of politics or religion. I just doesn't happen. To each his own.
     
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  11. jekemi

    jekemi Shoreline, WA New Member

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    I use a home made lubricant for cases, which also works well on other things, such as presses, tools, etc. It's essentially a copy of the Dillon Case Lubricant with some Jekemi tweaks. One cup 90% rubbing alcohol, 1 oz. liquid lanolin, 1 oz. RCBS case lubricant. Put it in a cheap no-name spray bottle. Spray your cases on a case lube pad or towel and roll them back and forth a bit. Allow the alcohol to dry and you are ready to reload.
     
  12. Certaindeaf

    Certaindeaf SE Portland Well-Known Member

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    Boresnakes come preloaded with enough snake oil to clean, lube and protect the whole weapon for fifty years. true story
     
  13. geokoppmann

    geokoppmann Santa Fe, New Mexico / Sand Point, Idaho New Member

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    I'll try one. Any suggestions ?
     
  14. Certaindeaf

    Certaindeaf SE Portland Well-Known Member

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    Magic.
     
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  15. Stomper

    Stomper Oceania Rising White Is The New Brown Silver Supporter

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    LMAO... That would have been funnier if I had said it. ;)
     
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  16. idahoan

    idahoan Boise, Idaho Active Member

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    multiple chemicals with differing evaporation rates. You can have a solvent that has a low evaporation pressure combined with an oil that has a high evaporation pressure. Once applied the solvent cleans and floats the debris into the oil, the oil with the high evaporation pressure lubricates and carries the debris away.

    Oh and the only metal removal that CLP does is the mechanical removal by the patch or bore snake. Chemically removing both lead and copper require some really nasty stuff that generates extremely hazardous oxides.
     
  17. usagi

    usagi Redmond Well-Known Member

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    chemical removal of copper isn't dangerous, unless you consider ammonia dangerous. you end up with copper ions in solution and maybe some copper hydroxide.

    chemical removal of lead is dangerous, but it doesn't generate oxides. it generates lead acetate, which is a soluble form of lead which is highly bioavailable and extremely nasty. fortunately you can precipitate it out with table salt into lead chloride, which is nearly insoluble and much safer to handle.
     
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  18. idahoan

    idahoan Boise, Idaho Active Member

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    I know that sweets 7.62 in a non well ventilated area will leave you puking your guts out, and that's ammonia. Yes I realize that you can precipitate the lead acetate out but that has to be a separate step because you don't want to be introducing salt to your firearm and the danger of an accident when messing with the stuff is very very real.
     
  19. SON*OF*LIBERTY

    SON*OF*LIBERTY Forest Grove Active Member

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    Aerosol based Remoil w/Teflon if i was allowed only one thing in my range box.

    Cleans, lubricates, protects at a good price.

    (I am probably the only guy that hasn't bought into the "frog lube furvor". It trashed some MG34 builds we had when we field tested on the builds)
     
  20. usmc

    usmc oregon Active Member

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    i use frog lube now,mainly because of the harsh chemicals are in solvents and other lubricants.but i still use CLP when i have some serious cleaning. on the other hand i use a mixture of ATF and WD-40 for my 1919 browning and it works great.course that was an old armorers recipe.
     
    salmonriverjohn likes this.