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Microlon Ultra Blue. A wide temperature operating range grease that does not run off, and liquifies into an oil with the least bit of friction. Used by Army and Marine Piston and Rifle Teams. Good stuff.
 
I have read enough bad thing about Frog Lube I'll never try it. My AR I am running now is lubed with Break Free CLP, because it's what I had sitting on the gun bench. I have pretty much convinced myself to invest in some nice needle oiler bottles and just one of the synthetic motor oils recommended.
 
No personal experience, but have heard Froglube does not play nice with Melonite treated surfaces (barrels, BCG are common parts treated). Does something to the treatment....
Like I said tho-only have read this on the big AR forums. Thats I'll I needed to not experiment, since I have some Melonited BCG & barrels...
It's not Frog lube that alters the Melonited surfaces. It is Bullfrog Sunscreen. Totally different product.
 
I started out running Mobil1 motor oil. Worked great, never had an issue. I switched to FrogLube about a year ago and haven't encountered any of the reported problems. My SCAR, AR and Glock all work well with FrogLube.
I'll probably switch to FireClean soon, for no reason other than the anti-carbon characteristics it has.
 
Been using Slip 2000. I have lots of love for any syn motor oil as well. I like my guns well oiled. Well oiled as oil keeps the parts separated [that is what oil does] as well as the dirt and carbon soft so it can be pushed away form the operating areas with use.

I received some Slip 2000 with a BCM upper, and have since ordered many bottles. It seems to treat the parts as apposed to just sitting on the metal. Keeps rust and corrosion away and makes cleaning a breeze. First time you use it, the amount of nasty old oil and grime it releases is amazing. Once a gun is treated the same product is used for cleaning. Best part is it's non-toxic and doesn't stink up the room.
 
Lithium axle grease, bought it autozone, it was $12 for some ungodly quantity (came in a bucket). It does eventually lose it's lubricating and preservative properties, but over-all keeps my stuff from rusting. I've tried froglube, works fine, expensive though. One of my buddy's gave me a tube of "industrial oven chain lube" that I want to try. Only down side with the automotive grease is it kinda smells and gets a little smoky when you shoot a lot, but when applied sparingly to the carrier it does a very good job.

Also, for people paranoid about attracting sand and dust to guns: I grew up in the desert shooting, there's pretty much a rule, if you open your AR up, even after you just cleaned it, somehow, some way you will always drop your BCG in the dirt. You will usually get embarrassed, wipe the big chunks of sand off, throw the BCG back in, and the gun will run fine provided there's oil on it. I have also gone out more than once with a gun that was perfectly dry and clean, and had it stop working after 5 rounds because it was dry, at that point you're pulling the dipstick out of the car to put some oil on it.
 
I switched to froglube a few months ago. My AR seems to be running fine, maybe 1000 rounds out of it. My 1911's seems to like it as well.
 
Froglube sucks. Found this out the hard way.

I know the OP was asking about AR's, but I gave Froglube a try and my 1911's started running like crap. FTF's mostly. I figured the slide wasn't or didn't have enough umph behind it to come back all the way. So I messed around with different powder charges thinking I wasn't loading them "hot" enough, but nothing seemed to help.

Finally remembered I switched to Froglube because the wife liked the smell. I stripped that crap off my guns and used something else, in this case Ballistol (because it was in front of me on my bench) and they've all ran fine since.

I later learned from other forums that I wasn't following the recommendations by Froglube in its application. I'm sorry, but a lube shouldn't need to be "applied" in any special manner.

To be fair, I saw no difference in the way my AR's ran when I used Froglube on them. However due to the PITA factor, I'm not going to keep more than one lube on hand.
 
I use Slip 2000, on the 'bearing surfaces' and a drop in each hole on the side of the BCG.

A small note.......I broke in a barrel in the 20 degree weather we had and the Slip 2000 got pretty darned gummy. Before I get flamed on this, yes I expected it, however it was a tad stickier than I anticipated and slowed the gun down too much. I run my AR's really wet, which is no big deal in the Valley where the typical temps run 45-75 degrees fahrenheit. So the solution was to take the BCG out, remove the bolt, wipe everything down like you would a normal gun after done lubing, and we were GTG.
 
Grease on the carrier rails and cam pin. Usually Slip EWG or Tetra.

Lube thick over entire bolt except bolt face. Drop on the gas rings and a tiny bit spread over the firing pin. Usually Slip 2000 gun lube, M Pro 7 LPX, or BF CLP.

Wipe down and reapply every few hundred rounds. Works great.
 
Don't over think this. Can become another 'solution to a non existent problem'. Used CLP in the military for most of my career, also used TW25 (lithium grease) and militec. Lubricate it with what you have and don't get to carried away as you will probably be able to clean it after you go to the range anyway. Right?
 
Gun junky's right, I love frog lube and it works great when properly applied, but if you just properly use what ever every one's talking about you'll be fine be it hops, frog lube, fire clean, the safari land clp, doesn't matter. What matters is knowing how to properly field strip it, clean it and do it often. Clean your weapon even if you haven't shot it, it forces you to ID problems with your system before they become catastrophic.
 

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