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A casting reel is set using the line spools shaft bearing nut, which is opposite the star drag.
What you do is tie on the weight and whatever bait you're using that day.
You hold the rod straight out at shoulder level and engage lever or button spool release.
You keep tightening the spool shaft bearing nut until the line spool stops rotating when the bait hits the ground.
So when you cast out over the river, the spool slows down to a halt when the bait hits the water.
That keeps you from having a snarled up backlash.
You are using a casting reel to troll with.
 
A casting reel is set using the line spools shaft bearing nut, which is opposite the star drag.
What you do is tie on the weight and whatever bait you're using that day.
You hold the rod straight out at shoulder level and engage lever or button spool release.
You keep tightening the spool shaft bearing nut until the line spool stops rotating when the bait hits the ground.
So when you cast out over the river, the spool slows down to a halt when the bait hits the water.
That keeps you from having a snarled up backlash.
You are using a casting reel to troll with.
So it should free spin if the drag isn't set tight enough? I got home tonight, set the drag, then tightened the shaft bearing nut, but it still free spools.
 
Keep the drag loose and set the casting tension so there is no end play on the line spool shaft, as you push the spool left to right. Then set the line drag.
 
You might have a bad drag brake or somebody over oiled the spool shaft. Is it a left handed model?
It's a right handed model. I bought it used on eBay. I'm kicking around picking up a Penn Fathom II, but wanted to make sure it wasn't a normal thing on the bait caster reels.
 
Bait casters aren't the greatest trolling reels. I use left handed Okuma Convector model reels for salmon trolling.
One of the best drags I've used.
 
For $85.00 you can't beat them in long lasting quality and smooth braking power.
Last year I foul hooked a 25 lb. wild spring salmon in his backside dorsal fin. I had to really crank down on the drag to try and haul it to my 14" aluminum boat, so I could get my favorite flasher rig back.
I was pulling him so hard, I was moving my boat sideways to the fish, not the usual fish to the boat way.
I had three other boats watching the show and after15 mins, I finally wore him down enough to get my rig back.
25 lb. Maxima Ultra Green line and time tested improved clinch knots.
 
They do take a slightly bigger rod reel seat then your Abu reel has.
Something to think about when you marry up a new reel to your existing rod.
 
They do take a slightly bigger rod reel seat then your Abu reel has.
Something to think about when you marry up a new reel to your existing rod.
Good to know! I'm normally a fly fisherman, and a very novice spinner. I moved back to Oregon so I thought I should catch a salmon, so I bought the heaviest rod at Bi-Mart and a big spool spinning reel. A few months later, someone walks over and informs me that I've got a casting rod with a spinning reel. I had no idea what he was talking. I doubled down and bought the Abu. I can't cast that thing to save my life, so it gets the trolling slot.

It's like a 9' rod, so I'm kind of thinking I want something in the 7' neighborhood for the kayak. I'm not going to be able to make it out again into the bay in the next few weeks, so I'm thinking I should start thinking about next season.
 
Pink vibrax candybacks, 4/0. A 5/0 or 6/0 with a hoochie trailer would definitely be more appealing to me.
I'll look into getting some of those in my hands. I'm definitely interested in the bobber trick, since I imagine the bycatch is a blast. I'll be better prepped next time, and take it more seriously
Those look good.

Appealing to YOU? I'd rather have appealing to SALMON!!!

According to Jed Davis, the real silver blade with the stripe underneath is the trick. I don't know if a chromed blade does as well... might be too much flash. But the purpose of putting the attractor color stripe underneath the blade is that the salmon approach and generally attack from behind. Color on top just isn't the same thing.

These are homemade... you need a copy of his book.

1663601311660.png

https://www.amazon.com/Spinner-Fish...&s=audible&sprefix=Jed+Dav,audible,188&sr=1-1
 
Here's one for the people in the know, I've a got an old Abu Ambassadeur, and with it rigged with the flasher and 6oz weight, if I don't set the drag really tight, the handle free spins and won't reel. There is a reverse nut on the end that I can tighten, but I can only get it so tight.

I'm a fly fisher and spinning reel guy, so this casting rod is new to me, long story; I bought a caster rod accidently and doubled down - turns out I can't cast a casting rod to save my life.

I'm used to being able to use the drag and still feel with the same drag setting; is the reel bad?
What model ambassadeur reel?

I caught my first salmon on a really old 7' fiberglass rod and a 3000D direct drive reel. Those D reels work differently than the others.

My next one was the 5500C model. Nice reel!

Those old ones just don't cast like the newer ones that have the magnets inside to slow the reel. Trolling the bay is good use but be sure to rinse/clean/oil after each outing.

Started bait casting for bass in NC in 1977. The learning curve is steep!!! Two secrets:
1. On your forward casting stroke, keep the reel handles oriented up (right handed reeling), this requires rotating your forearm. Set the line tension a bit stiffer when first learning, you DON'T want it to free spool. (if you don't have the spool tension set, the drag won't work). And keep your thumb feathering the inside of the spool rim, increasing tension as the lure arcs towards the water and slows down the line pull.
2. Your casting stroke with these old reels is not the same as whipping a spinning rod/reel/lure. You want to take your arm back, the smoothly push forward instead. More like a fly rod final forward stroke.

Post a pic of the reel for me!!
 
Last Edited:
What model ambassadeur reel?

I caught my first salmon on a really old 7' fiberglass rod and a 3000D direct drive reel. Those D reels work differently than the others.

My next one was the 5500C model. Nice reel!

Those old ones just don't cast like the newer ones that have the magnets inside to slow the reel. Trolling the bay is good use but be sure to rinse/clean/oil after each outing.

Started bait casting for bass in NC in 1977. The learning curve is steep!!! Two secrets:
1. On your forward casting stroke, keep the reel handles oriented up, this requires rotating your forearm. Set the line tension a bit stiffer when first learning, you DON'T want it to free spool. (if you don't have the spool tension set, the drag won't work). And keep your thumb feathering the inside of the spool rim, increasing tension as the lure arcs towards the water and slows down the line pull.
2. Your casting stroke with these old reels is not the same as whipping a spinning rod/reel/lure. You want to take your arm back, the smoothly push forward instead. More like a fly rod final forward stroke.

Post a pic of the reel for me!!
It's an old 6501-C3, I'll have to upload a picture later.
 
@solv3nt

You have to set the spool tension with ea rig/lure/weight combo that you want to cast.

Not sure where the spool tension knob is on that C3 reel. But as jbett said, you loosen the drag all the way, then hold the rod out parallel to the ground and push the button to let the lure drop... set the spool tension so that the lure just barely pulls line out and drops slowly. Then set the drag. You might have to fuss around with the spool tension to see what works best for you.
 
@solv3nt

You have to set the spool tension with ea rig/lure/weight combo that you want to cast.

Not sure where the spool tension knob is on that C3 reel. But as jbett said, you loosen the drag all the way, then hold the rod out parallel to the ground and push the button to let the lure drop... set the spool tension so that the lure just barely pulls line out and drops slowly. Then set the drag. You might have to fuss around with the spool tension to see what works best for you.
I played with the spool tension when I was attempting to learn to cast. I even tried in the yard with just a little weight on it.
 
I played with the spool tension when I was attempting to learn to cast. I even tried in the yard with just a little weight on it.
Contrary to most thought, those old reels don't cast well with light weights. I always needed at least a 1/2 to 5/8 lure weight. Even used 8oz for bobber/anchovie off the jetty.

Heavier line is easier to learn with.... 20lb at least.

Gotta go PT... will chech in later.
 
I figured it out! The reel was missing the cap and set screw. The cap and set screw will prevent the handle from free spinning.
 

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