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Does it effect the function of the gun?
Call me crazy, but if the gun still works fine I'd just keep shooting it. Guns are tools after-all and they will show wear overtime .
I embrace the wear on my guns, don't plan on refinishing any of them unless I run into major rusting issues.
 
I will be interested to see what they say too. If it was mine? I would clean the ejector good. If the thing was feeding? I would ignore it or use a marker on it. Probably just ignore it. Thing is some kind of painted finish so nothing even close to pretty. Still be interesting to see what they tell you to do.
 
4d7ef71768b8f60523e1c804c0ae6c9a.gif
 
Does it effect the function of the gun?
Call me crazy, but if the gun still works fine I'd just keep shooting it. Guns are tools after-all and they will show wear overtime .
I embrace the wear on my guns, don't plan on refinishing any of them unless I run into major rusting issues.

I have always been like that with almost all of my guns too but, many do like them "pretty". Certainly nothing wrong with that if that's your thing. Of course the one we are talking about does not as far as I know even come in a real pretty blued model. Mine is what they called hardcoat I think? So I of course do not try to baby it. As it gains marks and such will mean nothing to me. Now guns that have a really nice deep blue I can see more why some would care a lot more. Damn things are pretty.
 
I would radius that sharp edge that seems to be collecting dents from the brass and touch it up with an aluminum black pen if it bothered me seeing the marks. I don't polish the face of my hammers because they have a few scratches and dents, it's a tool, honest wear is acceptable in my opinion. It doesn't look bad, just looks like it works, and has been used.
 
I don't know, almost every aluminum receiver/slide/frame I own has some degree of finish wear at the ejection port. I'm sure my new PC Charger will look just like that in short order. Yours does look like a lot, though.
I hear ya!

Winchester 94s don't get beat up ports, no 1911 I have ever owned has had this happen, as well as any other SAs I have owned - maybe an 'aluminum' thing ?

Lets wait and see what Ruger has to say about it!
Nah, its more by design than by material. Even if the ruger pc was made of steel it'd still have finish wear. Eventually metal will be dinged up if the design or flaw causes it to happen.

I know for a fact even my aluminum dust cover gets hit by brass and steel on my AKs and they don't show this wear.
 
What you are looking at is the front opening of the ejection port on my 'new' PCC.

The bright vertical line is the edge of the port getting nicked up from ejected cases striking it.

Should I:

Email Ruger with pics?

Do nothing?

Proceed with an idea I have to machine a SS corner 'block' that will be secured with an allen head machine screw into the receiver?

View attachment 738612

What does the ejected brass look like? Does it have the HK-9x smile on it?


elsie
 
Mostly normal, a few have a slight dent in the mouth.
That would be where it's hitting then. If you could get a high speed camera and film it I'm sure it would be easily seen. Also sure some extractor work would be the easy fix. Have seen a LOT of 1911's that would hit the mouth of the brass. The easy fix was always the extractor. Could also alter the port but if it bothers you and you do not want to send it back I would check into what another extractor costs and try just popping one in. If it fixes it you could probably then "tune" the old one to make it stop too if worth the trouble for the price.
I know the bolt on these is made to easily be dis-assembled. So would guess the swap would be easy. When I first got mine I shot the crap out if it without cleaning. when I finally got around to cleaning it was really crudded up. I took the bolt outside to spray it good with cleaner and just the way I was holding it made it come apart by squeezing it the wrong way:eek:
Luckily I was standing on a deck so found the parts. Then had to look at the exploded drawings to put it back together. Always more careful now when I take the bolt out to clean :D
 
Update - response from Ruger.
Note - I haven't decided what I am going to do yet and would appreciate opinions:

Thank you for contacting Ruger Customer Service.
Your Customer Service Issue # is X

We would like to take a look at your firearm to address your concerns. Please contact our Product Service Department at 336-949-5200 with the serial number to have an RMA number issued for return, or you may send it in through your dealer if you prefer. Please have them contact us with the serial number and the stores FFL number to have an RMA number issued. Please be advised, if you will be sending the firearm through a dealer we will need the dealers permission to discuss the repairs with you.

Please provide permission to bring the firearm back to factory specifications. No repair will be performed if the firearm has been altered or changed.

Please be advised if your firearm is over two years old and if you find that UPS or FedEx is too costly to send in your firearm, we would be happy to sell you a prepaid shipping label for $30.00.

Ruger Customer Service
 
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Update - response from Ruger.
Note - I haven't decided what I am going to do yet and would appreciate opinions:

Thank you for contacting Ruger Customer Service.
Your Customer Service Issue # is X

We would like to take a look at your firearm to address your concerns. Please contact our Product Service Department at 336-949-5200 with the serial number to have an RMA number issued for return, or you may send it in through your dealer if you prefer. Please have them contact us with the serial number and the stores FFL number to have an RMA number issued. Please be advised, if you will be sending the firearm through a dealer we will need the dealers permission to discuss the repairs with you.

Please provide permission to bring the firearm back to factory specifications. No repair will be performed if the firearm has been altered or changed.

Please be advised if your firearm is over two years old and if you find that UPS or FedEx is too costly to send in your firearm, we would be happy to sell you a prepaid shipping label for $30.00.

Ruger Customer Service

If it was happening to mine? I would probably ignore it as long as it was not damaging the brass enough to make them harder to re-load in case I end up rolling 9 again at some point. I would maybe see what a new extractor would cost. If they are say a $10 part I would maybe try buying one, put that in see if it stops. Since I am pretty sure this is the likely reason. Even if it was free to me to send mine back I could not see me bothering assuming the rifle works and brass is still good after.
If it bothers you enough to send it back? Certainly nothing wrong with that. Even if it is over a couple years old their price for an RMA seems more than fair. It is your gun after all. If you do elect to have them look I will be interested to hear if what they find is the extractor. May be handy for others if they end up with one doing the same thing.
 
What you are looking at is the front opening of the ejection port on my 'new' PCC.

Mine looks the same.
brass hitting front of receiver.jpg

Finished sizing 900 once-fired 9mm brass today. The ones fired from the PCC were obvious. All had either a flat spot on the mouth of the case [left, below], or a small v-shaped divot on the case mouth [right, below].

fired 9mm from Ruger PCC.jpg

After running through the sizing die, the flat spots were ironed out [left below, the reflection kind of hides it, but the case mouth is perfectly round]. The v-shaped divots were not, even when I rotated the case and ran the ram up again.
resized 9mm.jpg
 
So you tore it down and lubed/cleaned still hits ejection port. I would 600 grit polish the case side of the extractor mirror smooth or so.... see if the case ejects smoother and free of the 'port' .But I would not mess with angles or curvature.
Ive had Ruger factory hassles sent a new revolver in twice....finally the supervisor of line assembly called me and said he saw my issue and would personally pick a frame that was good off the line and have my orig. parts reassembled to send to me. Sold it.
 
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round off that sharp edge with a stone or something similar.
This might work temporarily however it would no doubt start getting battered again.

I think I am going to proceed with the idea of a shaped SS cover for the corner of the front edge.

I might start by making a 'pattern' for this and post a pic for opinions on this before proceeding.

Essentially the cover will be shaped out of an approx. 18 ga piece of sheet metal and shaped to fit the radius and contour of the area just forward of the front edge.

The red bullet tip is pointing to the location of where a # 6 machine screw will be located to secure the cover.

IMG_2205.JPG
 
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