Is it worth reloading semi-auto rifle?

[Joe13]

Only reloading I ever did was with .308 and it seemed pretty straight forward.

I've heard bolt action long rang shooters like to keep the brass for the same gun after fire forming it to the chamber but I'm not in that league yet.

 

[slimmer13]

I wonder how the ammo manufacturer knows if you plan on using it in a semi or bolt and knows to load It different to accomodate?

 

[ma96782]

slimer13,

Note what is said here, about chamber size and the respective specs for 7.62 NATO and .308 Winchester (between military and commercial offerings).

Miscellaneous Questions 4 (http://www.frfrogspad.com/miscelld.htm#same round)

And, also note what this article says about the chamber, bullet weights, free bore cutting and twist rates of military 5.56 mm vs. commercial .223 Rem. offerings.

Miscellaneous Questions 4 (http://www.frfrogspad.com/miscelld.htm#5.56 mm NATO)

So?

Military semi auto rifles generally have a generous chamber and the test gauge is also generous.

As for ammo?

The ammo is sort of the same, yet not really. Say it this way.......if I'm an ammo maker, I'll want to capture the sporting semi auto and bolt action rifle markets. So, I'll make my commercial ammo to fit both chambers (perhaps on the min side of the spec).

But then, knowing that GI ammo is contracted and tested....well, I'm gonna have to stick to the Govt spec. Remember, the brass cases are usually thicker for the military ammo. So, maybe I'll even have a separate line for production.

And, we haven't even talked about gun powder for semi autos vs bolt actions yet.

Aloha, Mark

 

[slimmer13]

Right, so If you stick to published loads in a load book, stay away from the max load, fl size, correctly seat primers, and don't get experimental with powders and burn rates you should mimic factory offerings and be fine in a semi auto.

 

[ma96782]

Max loads are maximum. Me, I stay away from them by default. Mostly because for me, a lower load (less powder) will usually do.

Hint: looking for accuracy? Ladder testing is helpful. And, the max accuracy load isn't usually found in a max load.

Note......the same load does not always act/work the same way from one gun to the next. Example: 26 grains of X powder in a brand Y case with a brand Z 55 gr FMJ might be 1" groups in one rifle, while it might mean 2" groups in another. So, you have to find your load for the individual rifle. Switching any component could result in a different result.

And, "mimic factory" has me wanting to say this caution. Military 5.56 cannot generally be duplicated. Finding pristine military brass is one problem. Then, X grains of lot #123, Y brand powder is not the same as X grains of lot#456, Y powder that you got that the store. Before acceptance, ammo is thoroughly tested with the various components working together. And, how are you gonna crimp the primer?

But....OK, Ok, ok.....all that is too technical.

About the dies........
I use standard F/L dies. Some will choose to use S/B dies. IMHO....don't skip the gauge testing of your resized brass.

Bullet Crimps......
Depending on the bullet. I usually use my standard set to crimp. Some will choose to use a special LEE Factory Crimp die. Then again, I might just use neck tension.

Many ways to skin a cat.

Bottom Line.....
YES, reload for your semi auto. But be mindful of the dangers of reloading.

Aloha, Mark

 

[ma96782]

Anyway, for those who are interested in the reloading of rifle ammo on the cheap I'll repost this......

It assumes that you know how to adjust a die set properly.

ASSUMING, that you purchase a single stage press.

Basically (For non-crimped primer pocket, rifle brass like .223 Rem., say a batch "lot" of a 100 cases):

1) Inspect and clean the cases- a liquid bath in hot water, a squirt of dish soap and some wht vinegar, will get them clean. Though, not shiny.

Or, you could just wipe the cases off with a solvent dampened rag.

IF you want, clean with a bit of shine……Birchwood Casey Case Cleaning Solution (#33845 CCI) is a fast and cheap way. Mix with water (follow the directions on the package) soak the brass, drain and dry. Save the solution as it can be re-used.

2) Set up your press with the shell holder and de-capper/FL re-sizer die.

3) Lube the cases. LEE lube (#90006) can be applied with fingers. Or, buy a spray on lube from one of the "other brands."

4) Then, run some test cases through the die, it'll de-cap/re-size the brass in one pass.

5) Next, using a case gauge, check the brass to ensure that the proper re-size, has been achieved. Insert a case into the case gauge. The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks the headspace. While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on). IF, it's not the "correct size," your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don't forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed.

*IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge is a case gauge. There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads. I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson or Dillon case gauges are also popular choices).

Example of a gauge……..

Amazon.com : Lyman Reloading 223 Case Length/Headspace Gauge : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors (https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Length-Headspace-Gauge/dp/B001RI7A66/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1470109353&sr=8-3&keywords=5.56+headspace+gauge)


6) When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot. Also, do some random tests throughout the run.

7) Trimming brass. Remember the case gauge? Well, if your brass failed the gauge test, you will need to trim the brass. Or check the brass length with a caliper.

The cheapest way to trim brass, is with the LEE case trimmer. You'll need the cutter & lock stub and shell holder & case length gauge tools. The assembled trimmer runs on hand power or with a drill. Once the trimming is done, use a chamfer/reamer tool (LEE #90109) to "knock off the edge" on the newly cut case necks.

8) Clean the brass to take off the lube.......repeat, Step #1.

9) After the brass is thoroughly dry, re-prime the cases with a new primer.

The LEE auto prime hand tool makes fast work of this job. BTW, you'll need a special shell holder (not your reg. press shell holder) made especially for the LEE auto prime.

OR........use your press mounted primer tool.

10) After the cases have been re-primed, place the cases in a loading block.

11) Using a simple powder measure, calibrate it to throw the weight of powder charge that you want.

12) Check the thrown weight with your scale.

13) When you're satisfied that the weight is "correct." Charge each of the cases with powder. Do some random powder weight checks, throughout the run.

14) Next, remove the de-capper/re-sizer die from the press and replace it with the bullet seating die. Then, place the bullet on top of the opening of the case neck. Run the case w/bullet into the bullet seating die.

15) Inspect your rounds. You're done.

You don't have to do it exactly this way. There are many different products and ways to skin a cat.

Aloha, Mark

 

[Steve M]

My 7.62 NATO gas gun reloading experience is with the M1A which is known to be more prone to slam fires and is more brutal on the brass than most gas guns. I have no idea how your FAL compares, but I can tell you what I am doing.

Dies - Standard Hornady 308 Winchester f/l die set.
Brass - Lake City (IMI is good too), only 4 firings before discarding
Primers - CCI #34 (or BR2)
Powder - H4895 (or IMR 4895)
Bullets - Sierra #2200 168gr SMK loaded to 2.800" OAL
Crimp - None, proper retention provided by adequate neck tension.

Your FAL may get longer brass life and you might even get away with using softer non-military brass. The M1A has a very fast action and the bolt starts to unlock while the brass is still expanded. You might also find success with other powders, the M1A has a narrow range of what works well.

 

[Member 5605]

Oh... and get a case gauge based off of minimum SAAMI specs. Be surprised when a regular die won't size brass small enough at the base for a semi auto.

 

[mjbskwim]

If I could afford a Dillon 1150 and everything else involved,AND could find the brass after the CETME throws it like a Randy Johnson pitch, I would reload for the cetme.
But I don't shoot it much and have like 100 rounds for it. How much more could I need?

 

[CA of K]

Dyjital is that what small base dies help with?
mjbskwim my son is in want of a CETME, if I get the courage to do some competition might think about a progressive. The brass is popping out in good shape other than scratches that run parallel to the case??

 

[CA of K]

My brass is popping out in good shape other than the scratches, what causes the scratches? Can anything be done? (shooting a Fal)

 

[Member 5605]

My brass is popping out in good shape other than the scratches, what causes the scratches? Can anything be done? (shooting a Fal)

Scratches from coming out of the gun or out of the die?

 

[CA of K]

Scratches from coming out of the gun or out of the die?

out of the gun, they run down the length and aren't just in one spot,

 

[Member 5605]

out of the gun, they run down the length and aren't just in one spot,

Sounds like a burr in the chamber or...

When the case is fed from magazine into chamber the case can ride the upper feed lips of the magazine and get scratched to hell that way too.

 

[Member 5605]

@CA of K, have you hand fed one yet to see if you still have scratching?

 

[rcnpthfndr]

Scratching on the brass is coming from your Cetme? if so its not an issue as its the flutes in the chamber that are indicative of roller locking systems that aid in the extraction of the case.

 

[Certaindeaf]

If you have a bad back you could probably hire a kid to shag your brass or stand over a shopping cart or something.